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67 Nova, Nothin Special
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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
That was the best two vendors I thought. How was it for fit? I have a 72 Sport coupe project. I live 30 minutes west of South Bend,In. How about you? Also I hope to find a project manual trans car next year to 18 months. I always end up with projects
The fit was good, no complaints there but not much left of the car to start with so that made it a little easier to make everything fit in some ways. I’m on the very Southwestern end of the state but oddly enough, I was just in Elkhart about 3 weeks ago!
 

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The fit was good, no complaints there but not much left of the car to start with so that made it a little easier to make everything fit in some ways. I’m on the very Southwestern end of the state but oddly enough, I was just in Elkhart about 3 weeks ago!
I kinda searched for the crappy projects with no driveline. Better deals. Now hardly any Novas around my area. Different day. And sorry but I'm to old to pay $30k for a project. I picked up another project last year out of Washington state a 68 Caprice. Its a big block,auto.,bucket seat car. Drove to Iowa for the correct interior.
 

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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
So been compiling some parts and sorting out a few things while the car’s been in the body shop. Figured I’d post up some info about the fuel tank setup I’m going with. During my research it was hard to find any pics much less detailed pics of the Rick’s Tanks Restomod tank for the Second Gen Novas. With the Gen V LT motor, there were a few requirements for me personally that I wanted. 1) the system had to be “returnless” cause I don’t want the clutter and potential leaks of having two lines. 2) I wanted to utilize a GM GenV Camaro ZL1 fuel pump module due to my third requirement which was running the pump via Pulse Width Modulation. Luckily, with the GenV pump the other two items are basically part of the package. The Camaro pump modules are kinda the standard for LS and LT motors but they have a specific mounting flange which is not common on many tanks and once you add in that it’s for a 66-67 Nova, the options become increasingly limited. Since I didn’t particularly care to spend $1800-2000 on a custom stainless fuel tank, my intention was to run the Rick’s Restomod tank. They don’t advertise these tanks on their website and while they do appear in searches, there’s typically little to no pictures or info out there on the Second Gen Nova tanks so I thought I’d share some.

First off, the cost is a fraction of a stainless tank and it comes with the tank straps and locking ring for the fuel pump. I got mine from Summit Racing (pn: RHR-15031) which saved me $150 in shipping. Secondly, since my plan was to use a Vaporworx PWM controller for the fuel pump, I called and talked to Carl at Vaporworx (highly recommend Carl) and he educated me on a couple of key points, the first being that the GM Performance Gen V LT engine harness already has a good, reliable PWM controller built in so there was no need for me to purchase his. Secondly, that Rock Auto was the cheapest place to buy the AC Delco ZL1 pump module (which he also sells) and then we discussed a few other incidentals. In the end, I bought their fitting kit and dual corner pickup kit and got the pump module from Rock Auto which brought the price in much cheaper then I had originally expected. Anyway, here’s some pics of the tank, the inside where one of the corner pickups will be positioned and a few of the odds and ends. The tank quality is very nice and arrived in less then a week. I’m also a fan of the black powder coating instead of the silver that Tanks, Inc uses. Thanks for looking!
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Grille Automotive exterior
Rectangle Gas Font Metal Auto part
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Road surface Font Bottle cap
Automotive tire Grey Automotive design Tire Rim
 

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Well, got my pedal bracket in and cleaned/painted, swapped the pedal over and installed new bushings, springs, etc. so should be good to go. Also, got my steering column in and the AC bulkheads mounted on the firewall and inner fenders. Didn’t take any after pics of the pedal assembly but everything fits as it should and looks good. View attachment 431485 View attachment 431486 View attachment 431487 View attachment 431488 View attachment 431489 View attachment 431490
What steering column did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #247 ·

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Discussion Starter · #248 ·
Haven’t posted any updates for awhile but been stockpiling parts and waiting on the car to get some love at the body shop. The car’s close to coming home with the front sheet metal, bezels, grill, etc. fitted along with some other odds and ends that I haven’t had time to do. In the meantime, I’ve basically got everything needed to build a complete car with the exception of the soft interior items and exhaust. Haven’t decided on what direction I’m going with the front seats or mufflers yet but I know I want everything else to be stock-appearing. When I get the car back, I’ll just need to decide which parts I wanna complete while waiting for the car to go back in for final bodywork & paint. Among the list of parts sitting in my basement are 14” Bear 6P brakes front/rear, Entropy radiator, Holley Midmount accessory drive kit, Shiftworks shifter, AAW Classic Update kit, GM engine harness and computer, Dakota Digital VHX gauge cluster, new automatic console, Rick’s tank with corner pickups and ZL1 pump, new grill, NOS headlight bezels, bumpers, original trim pieces (that need polished), all the items needed to plumb my trans cooler lines, AC lines and condenser, misc. interior and door parts to start fitting the mechanical things up and just got my wheels and tires from Forgeline today so I’m pretty excited to get started on some stuff soon. I wanted to have all the parts needed to complete the major systems on the car…HVAC, Driveline, brakes, fuel, cooling, electrical, audio, etc. so I could resolve any real-estate and fitment issues ahead of time.

I’m on the fence on installing some Nu Relics power windows…the wife wants them but I’m curious to hear any input from those that have them; are the worth it? Do they function properly? Are they slow or jerky fast? I’m ok with doing the door glass but after looking at the instructions, I’m not cutting up my inner quarter panels to install the motors for the quarter windows…I’ve spent too much time/effort fixing the body to butcher any of the inner structures again.

Anyway, here’s a few teaser pics…more to come in the near future. Thanks for looking!
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Locking hubs
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Locking hubs Motor vehicle
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Wheel Tire Automotive tire Tread Locking hubs
 

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Discussion Starter · #253 ·
very nice looking wheel setup. cant wait till I'm at the same position you are. keep the updates coming
Love those wheels
Looks like my stock pile! Everything is looking good, can’t wait to see it home again.
Man you got a NICE pile of parts ! And those are some great lookin wheel 👍
Thank you guys! I’m excited and ready to get started on getting some tangible stuff done. It’s lingered at that point where it doesn’t feel like there’s been much progress cause everything always looks about the same!
 

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I have NuRelics on my coupe. I did use the rear ones and it was a small cut out for the motor to fit. I've made so many other minor modifications it didn't bother me. They are pretty fast even without a relay. I did install all new weather strips and fuzzies in all windows.

I really like your wheel choice. Maybe one day I'll update from my 15" Rally look and spend some coin on a new set.
 

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Haven’t posted any updates for awhile but been stockpiling parts and waiting on the car to get some love at the body shop. The car’s close to coming home with the front sheet metal, bezels, grill, etc. fitted along with some other odds and ends that I haven’t had time to do. In the meantime, I’ve basically got everything needed to build a complete car with the exception of the soft interior items and exhaust. Haven’t decided on what direction I’m going with the front seats or mufflers yet but I know I want everything else to be stock-appearing. When I get the car back, I’ll just need to decide which parts I wanna complete while waiting for the car to go back in for final bodywork & paint. Among the list of parts sitting in my basement are 14” Bear 6P brakes front/rear, Entropy radiator, Holley Midmount accessory drive kit, Shiftworks shifter, AAW Classic Update kit, GM engine harness and computer, Dakota Digital VHX gauge cluster, new automatic console, Rick’s tank with corner pickups and ZL1 pump, new grill, NOS headlight bezels, bumpers, original trim pieces (that need polished), all the items needed to plumb my trans cooler lines, AC lines and condenser, misc. interior and door parts to start fitting the mechanical things up and just got my wheels and tires from Forgeline today so I’m pretty excited to get started on some stuff soon. I wanted to have all the parts needed to complete the major systems on the car…HVAC, Driveline, brakes, fuel, cooling, electrical, audio, etc. so I could resolve any real-estate and fitment issues ahead of time.

I’m on the fence on installing some Nu Relics power windows…the wife wants them but I’m curious to hear any input from those that have them; are the worth it? Do they function properly? Are they slow or jerky fast? I’m ok with doing the door glass but after looking at the instructions, I’m not cutting up my inner quarter panels to install the motors for the quarter windows…I’ve spent too much time/effort fixing the body to butcher any of the inner structures again.

Anyway, here’s a few teaser pics…more to come in the near future. Thanks for looking!
View attachment 444404 View attachment 444405 View attachment 444406 View attachment 444407
Man I love those, if I win the lottery those are the ones I am getting. Be about $11k or more in Canada no tires. Beautiful, can't wait to see all those boxes empty and parts on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #256 ·
I have NuRelics on my coupe. I did use the rear ones and it was a small cut out for the motor to fit. I've made so many other minor modifications it didn't bother me. They are pretty fast even without a relay. I did install all new weather strips and fuzzies in all windows.

I really like your wheel choice. Maybe one day I'll update from my 15" Rally look and spend some coin on a new set.
Thank you Fltinstructor, I’d love to see any pics you might have or hear of any obstacles you had to overcome. They seem like the go-to kit for power windows for most people. I plan to use the window crank switches on mine to keep it stock looking.

On the wheels, I was very close to ordering Forgeline’s OE1 wheel which is basically a rally wheel, and installing some factory hub caps…you can never go wrong with a Chevy rally wheel IMO whether you’ve got a muscle car, or truck rally wheel!
 

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Discussion Starter · #257 ·
Man I love those, if I win the lottery those are the ones I am getting. Be about $11k or more in Canada no tires. Beautiful, can't wait to see all those boxes empty and parts on the car.
Much appreciated, Numbersguy! I went in circles on what wheel to use and seemed to always come back to these. They’ve been done numerous times on Second Gen Novas but they just look so good to me. So, I’m curious, how does the import tax work for something like that? Is it a flat percentage of the original cost or does it vary by product…that a big jump on the price. Hell, send ‘‘em to my house and I’ll meet you somewhere in Michigan and hand them off to you…just buy me a tank of gas, lol!
 

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Hopefully Numbersguy does not mind me responding-
Today the Canadian Dollar is trading at .76 to 1 U.S. Dollar. But I would actually calculate at .70 to be safe so right there add 30% to what you paid. Shipping to a door step in Canada is a whole experience in itself with todays shipping fees plus a person would pay a brokerage fee on the import. Here in New Brunswick we pay a combined tax of 15%- on top of this anything that is imported from the U.S. but manufactured outside the U.S. is subject to another 6%.
So yeah - it costs a lot .
As an example- I ordered a third brake light for my 65 from Florida for around $35.00 U.S.- by the time I had it delivered to my door step- it was just shy of $150 Canadian. The brokerage fees alone were over $40 Canadian and the shipping was $40.
You guys live in an aftermarket paradise:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #259 ·
That’s interesting Acd65post, crazy to think about or keep up with, but interesting. So, if one were to “buy” something from an individual during a visit here in the states, say a set of wheels, for a really good deal, when you cross back over the border, how do they know what you declare to be the value is accurate? Do they go by the price you paid as the value or do they use the cost of the item when it was new and what proof is required? Do you pay the taxes on the spot or are you billed later? Asking for a friend😀 This is interesting to me as someone who’s never had to deal with it from your side of things. Thanks!
 

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Hopefully Numbersguy does not mind me responding-
Today the Canadian Dollar is trading at .76 to 1 U.S. Dollar. But I would actually calculate at .70 to be safe so right there add 30% to what you paid. Shipping to a door step in Canada is a whole experience in itself with todays shipping fees plus a person would pay a brokerage fee on the import. Here in New Brunswick we pay a combined tax of 15%- on top of this anything that is imported from the U.S. but manufactured outside the U.S. is subject to another 6%.
So yeah - it costs a lot .
As an example- I ordered a third brake light for my 65 from Florida for around $35.00 U.S.- by the time I had it delivered to my door step- it was just shy of $150 Canadian. The brokerage fees alone were over $40 Canadian and the shipping was $40.
You guys live in an aftermarket paradise:cool:
Don't mind at all. It is the brokerage fees, shipping cost and exchange rate on everything. Luckily in AB here so only 5% for now but moving to NB next fall, lol, to be closer to kids and grand kids. I estimate the cost to build a car to be 40% - to 50% higher in Canada. than the US. Since the cost of everything here is far more expensive, like paint and body work, parts.
 
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