[fltinstructor]

I have NuRelics on my coupe. I did use the rear ones and it was a small cut out for the motor to fit. I've made so many other minor modifications it didn't bother me. They are pretty fast even without a relay. I did install all new weather strips and fuzzies in all windows.

I really like your wheel choice. Maybe one day I'll update from my 15" Rally look and spend some coin on a new set.

 

[fltinstructor]

Thank you Fltinstructor, I’d love to see any pics you might have or hear of any obstacles you had to overcome. They seem like the go-to kit for power windows for most people. I plan to use the window crank switches on mine to keep it stock looking.

On the wheels, I was very close to ordering Forgeline’s OE1 wheel which is basically a rally wheel, and installing some factory hub caps…you can never go wrong with a Chevy rally wheel IMO whether you’ve got a muscle car, or truck rally wheel!

Those Forgelines are bitchin and cost more than all the mods to my car. I was looking at Wheel Vintiques chrome rally. More in my wheel house for price. I had them do some Olds rally's for a 67 442 that I had.

For the Nu Relics, it was pretty easy to install. The hardest part for me was running the master harness wires for the 4 regulators thru the conduit into the drivers door. Of course running switches somewhere else besides th doors would make it a lot easier. So would only running wires for just two. Since you are planning to use the window crank switches the wires will be in the doors, I used the stock looking chrome swiches even though Chevy II didn't come with power windows. I wanted total control of all the windows and I also installed a module that rolls them all up in sequence when locking the car if they are down. I also had new stock door and quarter panels that were unmolested. So I cut the squares for th switches and they are no holes to cover. So far it's soo subtle no one has noticed or made a comment that it has power windows. Because I did an updated wiring harness the power came from a deicated wire for the windows and only has to run to the master switch on the drivers side. The other windows get their power from that switch. I did take a good while adjusting them, but I had the doors and quarters apart when I bought the car so I never had the stock regulators in for reference. Sorry I don't have any pictures of the installation or where I cut the panel for relief for the rear regulators. I did attach a couple of the finished interior shots to see where the switches ended up. Hope this helps. Any questions you come up with feel free to hit me up.

 

[fltinstructor]

That’s great information and it’s most appreciated…your interior looks great! The switches look right at home, too! I never even thought about the driver having control of all the windows and having the windows all roll up when you lock it is super slick…I definitely have some more homework to do.

Since we’re on the subject of me stealing ideas from your car, lol, I couldn’t help but notice your emergency brake setup…Even though my car’s an auto, I think I’m gonna do the Lokar e-brake setup and had planned to mount it in the same position as yours. Did you have any issues getting the cable routed to the passenger side brake? I haven’t purchased anything yet but have been planning it out in my head, especially after seeing the video of the Ford Cyclone rear-ending those cars at a stoplight while filming a vlog about the guy’s car…despite some poor decision making on the driver’s part, it never hurts to have a plan B or C, especially given the low cost of adding an E-brake. Thanks again!

Thanks for th compliment on the interior. I had the opourtunity to drive a Porche 914 a friend had and the hand brake was located in that position. It makes drifting a lot easier to do in a manual shift car. The floors in our Chevy II's have more room on the drivers side because of the engine offset. I even think the stock 65 buckets are narrower in the seat area. The stock e-brake cables run up that side before entering at the cowl, so it was easy to run the lokar ones to that spot on the floor. I am still looking for a better brake lever that will work. That Lokar one because of my seat sitting so high is not ideal to find and pull, and the handle is kind of girly(too thin for my big hand). I wished I could convert a 914 lever. It releases to the down position after setting it so you didn't have to climb over it when getting in the car. Ebay has them listed for $400 though and I build on the cheap.

 

[fltinstructor]

Looks like everything body wise is fitting mighty fine.

 

[fltinstructor]

Thanks for all the information.

Are those the Jegs Bolt on Tabs? They look killer and I like the possibility of bolting on rather than welding.

Jegs Tabs

I don't know why Jeg's does this, but the same tabs with the line clips are listed a little cheaper.

Jegs Tabs w/Clips

PS. I made mine from scrap, bolt on the front and weld-on for the differential.