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Discussion Starter #1
I'm at a point where I need to hang the doors to make sure everything fits. All of the new metal is solidly tacked into place. I've made numerous attempts on hanging the doors. Close but not close enough. Adjusting the body side of the hinge is easy. Adjusting the door side of the hinge is a pain because I've got to remove the door to make any adjustments. A real guessing game. Is there an easier way? Thanks.

405362
 

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here's my question - - - can you post up a picture "of your Door Jam with the door hinge in place"
(not the 'body mount area' ) .
Just asking …………. then, here is a post , where we were talking about this very 'subject' ;


Plus , I have also "cut off old bolts too use as guide pins " for installing doors onto their hinges.
(back in my 'body shop days') . just go slow and keep checking gaps .
Also, what do the 'hinge bolts look like - 1/2" hex-head bolt ? ? any 'countersunk' ; hex head phillip
type bolts ? ?

Hope this may help ………. jim
 

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Keep in mind that, with the status of the car in the picture, you're just trying to get things close, not perfect yet. Once it's on all four wheels, with engine and trans in the car and at or near full assembly, everything will settle and change the body/door adjustment anyway, so then you can make a final. All the time you take to get that right before paint will be well worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Jim,

I'm post another photo later. Not sure how you would use "cut off bolts too use as guide pins?"

Thanks for the link. I'll check that out.

On the lower hinges there are three countersunk hex-head bolts and three of the countersunk phillips head. I do have the odd shaped wrench. I had stated that I had to remove the door to adjust the lower door side hinges. I'm thinking that I made a mistake and put the phillips head bolts on the door side and not on the body side. Going out to the garage now to switch them and see if I can use the wrench then.

Upper hinges have six regular bolts with flat washers.

Thanks for the info. Mike
 

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Here is what works for me. Adjust the body side of the hinge to get the fore-aft gap at the quarter and the up/down gap at the rocker first. Once you are happy with those gaps, then loosen 2 of the bolts on the door side of the hinge a couple of turns, but only slightly loosen the 3rd bolt. You can then take a dead-blow hammer and tap outward on the inside of the door enough to move it out to the proper plane. Keep in mind, that getting the lower hinge is easy because you have the rocker to align it with, but the upper hinge requires the fender to be mounted to have something to align it with. You can not rely on the vent window frame to align with, since it also moves independently from the door with an adjusting screw, both fore and aft as well as in an out. The key is to get the last bolt loose enough to move with a hard blow from your fist or a deadblow hammer, but not loose enough to move around on it's own while you tighten the screws.
 

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Mike,

With all that being said, I would never try and align the doors until the door was painted and the weatherstrip was installed. The weatherstrip will really tell you where the door needs to be, and then after that, it is just fine adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
John, Ok. The primary reason for taking some time now on door alignment is that I replaced both hinge pillars, lower/upper cowling and cowling shoulders. I probably bit off a bit more than I should have. Oh well. So far; so good but am seeing some issues and will have a friend of mine (a body guy) take a look next week. The passenger side looks good. The gap on the driver side between aligned door and fender is way too wide. We'll see. Thanks.
 
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