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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Car: 67 Acadian Canso SD

Engine: L31 Vortec 355, full roller, 276 extreme energy cam. Air gap, MSD HEI, electric water pump, Holley blue pump, Holley bypass fuel reg, Holley Brawler 670 cfm vac sec. KB Flat tops. 10.1
est 420/425 hp.

Trans: Tremec TKX .81 McLeod clutch, hyd set up. Line loc. Lakewood Bell.

Diff: 8.5 10 Bolt. Eaton posi. 3.42 Yukon gears. 1350 u joints front and rear.

Rear susp: DSE mini tubs, CBR 4 link. Viking coil overs.

Front susp: Full CBR, man rack, 2 in drop spindles, Viking coil overs.

Rims/tires: Weld Prostar 10 in 8.5 bs BFG 295-50-15 out back, 7 in 4.5 bs BFG 205-60-15 up front

Exhaust: Dougs 317’s. 2.5in flow-master 50 series Delta flow.

Interior: stockish.

Exterior: will be Velocity Blue.

Been awhile since last post. Can’t seem to find the time, so i will apologize now if things come in the wrong order.
Engine was run up for initial break in. 425 hp L31 Vortec, ( No video I accidentally deleted) TKX is in some tunnel mods. Fuel tank, pump, return line all in. Rad, shroud, and new wiring harness is in. Classic dash is in and everything powered up ( thankfully I didn’t let the smoke out of the wires) waiting on 1350 pinion yoke to come in ( should be a this week) then measurements for new shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I want to run BFG 295-50-15 in the back, so after watching some videos on u tube, I came up with this ******* homemade version of rim width, backspace and off set tool. Adjusts from 14-18in rim, 4-12 width, 2 - 8.5in backspace, -40 - + 76 mm offset. The diff is out of a 72 Camaro if I remember correctly so it’s a little wider (don’t have stamping #’s in front of me) I should have narrowed it back when i was building it. Looks like Weld drag lites 10in w 8.5 bs and +76mm offset. The tire profile filler rod is from buddies 295 but squeezed on a 9in rim. Now moving onto the fronts.
 

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63 SS 350/TKX/9”
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You need to ask a few questions and maybe some one with a similar set up will respond.

My wheels are 18 x 9 with 285-35 tires not sure of offset right now but probably 4 to 5?
My rear end is narrowed to TCI spec 54.5" axle flange to axle flange.

My issue is having to undo coilovers to which is normal in just about all cases and have to jack really high with also at least 2 1/2 to 3"1/2 tire off the ground to get the tire off. It does come off and a little tricky to put back on without marking the wheel up on the brake assembly.

All I am saying is with your wider rear end and extra backspace wheel removal could be a even bigger issue. Needing the car even higher to get wheels on and off.
 

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63 SS 350/TKX/9”
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Also some of my limits are the TCI cross member driveshaft loop limits how far my rearend can drop. This means exhaust has to be unhooked to remove driveshaft. I can get the shaft out but it involves raising and lowering the car a few times with the coilovers unhooked. My 6 ton jackstands would also need to be blocked up about 4" higher.
A two post lift would ease the situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Sounds like you got a lot going on. I do fully expect to drop the diff to get tire combo in there. When i do my exhaust, I will make sure my H pipe doesn’t interfere. Like you said pretty much a standard thing with style of car. Would be curious if anyone else is running something similar. Thanks for sharing..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Found some time to finally finish up on getting lighting working with the new harness and refurbished the grill. Im missing a ground on the driver front park lamp, im thinking the steering column connector, will have to take a look. Everything is just mocked up for now…. It’s definitely nice to see everything powered up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got my front park lamp sorted out, was in the column connector. Talk to Tim at Weld, ordered my rims, should see them mid February. Took my rear seats apart to fit for DSE mini tubs. While I’m waiting for the rims, i will have to clean the frames up for paint, solder my rear taillights and reverse lights wiring. Once rims and tires are on start on the exhaust….getting a little closer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Started cleaning up my taillights. Some pitting, they will good enough for a driver. I will talk to Menno again, i think he was saying he’s doing lenses now. Got a fairly nice rear bumper from him and some other goodies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Well this was a surprise for me. They were supposed to be 5-6 weeks away, 2 weeks later they showed up, definitely not complaining. One final mock up of tire profiles, then get em mounted. As the sticker says… you mount them you buy them. Just want to be 100% sure before tires go on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Thank you.
Yes sir. Didn’t really want to drill and tap the port at the front of the intake (under t stat) for the 3/4 return plus I don’t think it would work very good as the block is “pressurized” from pump and would “stall out” so went to back side of t stat, basically like a truck, return going to rad. It might take a little bit longer to warm up, if I don’t like it down the road, i may change.

The l31 don’t have water pump air bleed going into the right side cyl head, so i drilled 2 - 1/32nd holes in stat and run the return hose this way. When i turn the pump on there’s a bit of flow i can see looking down the rad, so this seems to work for avoiding any air locks. Worked on the running stand for break in, hoses just looped, but that’s basically just what the heater core is. See how it works once my exhaust is on and i can fire her up again and move under it’s own power

Edit: i should say the blocks have air bleed but head’s don’t.
 
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