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Discussion Starter · #641 · (Edited)
also, ran a wire from the output of the potentiometer on the dakota gss-3000... and used the voltage coming from that wire to configure gear indicators in the dash... on my test screen for now, will change how it looks on my main driving screen... forgot to change the color of the R to white when selected (but this is on an aux "page" anyway). the small display on the console still works as it should...
 

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Tested using PWM to control the pump... everything is working correctly... lid to tank, doors and trunk are open... which is why everything is so loud... fairly quiet with everything closed... not sure how all this will cool, without a heat exchanger (for now)... but will test it and then add ice and re check...


table looks like this for now... not sure how it will be in the end... to decide what number to enter, subtract it from 100. so 100, would be off, or 0% duty cycle and 5 is 95% duty cycle. It is opposite because I had to use a resistor (pull up with 12 volts) to convert the neg PWM signal to positive for the pumps circuit to be able to receive the PWM signal...
I've read a few things from some of the bigger names in turbo LS's say that most people don't need ice or heat exchanger on the street. Most of the time people are driving around in vacuum or low boost and aren't generating heat. Some even claim you don't need those on the strip either, unless you are trying to get every last bit of power. I understood that you make a hit and the water in the intercooler will absorb the heat from the charge air. After the hit you can cycle the pump on for a bit and move the water from the intercooler to the tank and the temps will normalize to whatever the ambient temp if the water in the tank is by the time you need to cycle the water again. In other words you shouldn't need to run the intercooler pump all the time or even the majority of the time.
 
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