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Discussion Starter #41
This bottle jack style bender is meant for black pipe, it will not do some of the things needed for roll cage work...been there, done that.

To make the shoe fit either 1-3/4" or 1-5/8" roll cage tubing, you will need to make a slipper shim to go in the bender shoe since the shoe is pipe size it is too big to correctly cradle roll cage tube and it tries to flatten out the tube when you bend it, making the bend area oval badly. Looks bad and likely won't pass a tech inspection due to stretching thinning the tube wall.

I used a couple small scrap lengths of tube to press a piece of .040", .060" or .090" thick aluminum sheet (I don't remember which for each tube size) under the tube and then proceeded to bend the scrap, pressure forming the aluminum sheet to the shoe and filling up the oversize so the sides of the shoe die will correctly cradle the side of the tube you are bending and not ovalize the tube.
Makes a shim that looks a lot like a shoe horn. Cradles the tubing in the bend shoe like a hotdog in a bun.

Even with this done, you are limited to about a 45-50° bend before the lack of support on the backside of the tube lets the tube start to deform and kink....it won't bend far enough to do the main hoop upper corners....but will do most other needed bends to rear bars, engine bay bars, door bars.
After one failed attempt to bend a main hoop, I just bought either S&W Racecars or Competition Engineering main hoops and then built from there. They price them reasonable enough.

There is a reason real tube benders cost what they do.
As of now we are leaving it patina looking. We are building this car on a very limited budget. It will be all owner built and very little if any store bought pieces.
 

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As of now we are leaving it patina looking. We are building this car on a very limited budget. It will be all owner built and very little if any store bought pieces.
Oh I hear you....I'm a po' boy too. I just wanted to be clear that the Harbor Freight pipe benders won't bend a roll bar tube tight enough to make the main hoop.....but it will bend everything else in a 6 or 8 point roll bar or 8+ point Sportsman cage. You can get just the main hoop from Competition Engineering/Jeg's for about $55 and then build from there with a bottle jack bender.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
406668
It doesn’t look like much but I did a lot of body work today and got the under side of the car about half coated with an oil based rust protectant (gloss black) it looks great. Nice and clean.
 

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Please continue to document your build as i personally know it takes time and effort to take pics and upload them.
Great looking car my vote is leave the paint alone!!!!

Thanks
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #51
407494

Just took delivery of our Smith Racecraft split mono leafs. That’s right you herd right Kim Smith (Smith Racecraft) makes split mono leafs. Check them out on the web. Next will be a call to Quick Performance for a 9” rear end.
 

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View attachment 407494
Just took delivery of our Smith Racecraft split mono leafs. That’s right you herd right Kim Smith (Smith Racecraft) makes split mono leafs. Check them out on the web. Next will be a call to Quick Performance for a 9” rear end.
I’ve seen the Calvert racing split mono’s. Pretty decent pieces. I’ve got a few things from smith racecraft. Great products also.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I’ve seen the Calvert racing split mono’s. Pretty decent pieces. I’ve got a few things from smith racecraft. Great products also.
Nothing with the name Calvert will be on my car. Im not building a cookie cutter car.
 

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I take it you are planning to use the Smith Racecraft Assassin bars??
The Split Mono springs by themselves aren't great for traction, you have to have some type of bar to make them work as designed.

By the way, absolutely nothing on Smith Racecraft's web site about any mono leaf spring??
 

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J&E are you going to move the leafs inboard? If so, are you getting a narrowed tank or a fuel cell? Also, are you gonna use Smiths offset rear hangars or sliders? Curious because im still trying to decide between leafs and 4 link. The reasons why i want to stay with leafs is because of costs and Ive read alot of guys get the quarter panel wrinkle when running a 4 link.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I take it you are planning to use the Smith Racecraft Assassin bars??
The Split Mono springs by themselves aren't great for traction, you have to have some type of bar to make them work as designed.

By the way, absolutely nothing on Smith Racecraft's web site about any mono leaf spring??
Sorry, I did say check the site for them. You have to call and ask Kim about them, they are not on his web site. I think I have the first set he has made in years. He is a great guy to talk to and will take care of you.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
J&E are you going to move the leafs inboard? If so, are you getting a narrowed tank or a fuel cell? Also, are you gonna use Smiths offset rear hangars or sliders? Curious because im still trying to decide between leafs and 4 link. The reasons why i want to stay with leafs is because of costs and Ive read alot of guys get the quarter panel wrinkle when running a 4 link.
Yes I am moving the springs inboard. I just finished the mini tub a few weeks ago, I also pinched the frame rail in the tub area to gain all I could to fit the 275/60/15 M/T drag radial slick. Im using sliders. Check out the Crusty Nova Build on Goggle. (Type in 62 Chevy II Plain Jane) Im pretty much duplicating his car build less the horsepower. This will give you an idea of how Im doing things.
 
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