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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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I have not used one of these but I don't think you could find one more affordable. BENDER Are you planning on painting the car or leaving the patina?
 

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That bender sure is inexpensive, that's less than the cost of a die for most benders. The dies are not nearly as heavy duty as most but I'm sure it will get the job done. Note that they are only 90 degree dies, but I don't ever see needing more than that for rollcage application. Get yourself a small magnetic digital angle gauge and a digital angle finder, they're cheap and invaluable. I was working with chromoly on mine that was $10 a foot so I made templates out of 1.25" pvc on the complex pieces, mitered and glued up to fit and then easy to just copy with the tubing. Have fun with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
403923
Okay here is some bling !!! I pick up these nice used Centerline Convo Pros. 15x3 and 15x10 wheels and will be building the car as a 275/60/15 small tire car.
 

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Looking good. Brings back memories of when I mini tubbed and did a 4 link on my 66.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Okay this is a good shot of how I cut the inner ledge off the inside outer wheel wheel housing to make more tire room. Of course this gets patched in flush without that ledge.
405296
 

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Discussion Starter #36
405381

Here you can see the rear passenger side inner wheel housing and the new frame rail patch from the pinched rail section. I just mini tubbed this Nova without spending a dime (no money). That makes me happy.
 

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I have not used one of these but I don't think you could find one more affordable. BENDER Are you planning on painting the car or leaving the patina?
This bottle jack style bender is meant for black pipe, it will not do some of the things needed for roll cage work...been there, done that.

To make the shoe fit either 1-3/4" or 1-5/8" roll cage tubing, you will need to make a slipper shim to go in the bender shoe since the shoe is pipe size it is too big to correctly cradle roll cage tube and it tries to flatten out the tube when you bend it, making the bend area oval badly. Looks bad and likely won't pass a tech inspection due to stretching thinning the tube wall.

I used a couple small scrap lengths of tube to press a piece of .040", .060" or .090" thick aluminum sheet (I don't remember which for each tube size) under the tube and then proceeded to bend the scrap, pressure forming the aluminum sheet to the shoe and filling up the oversize so the sides of the shoe die will correctly cradle the side of the tube you are bending and not ovalize the tube.
Makes a shim that looks a lot like a shoe horn. Cradles the tubing in the bend shoe like a hotdog in a bun.

Even with this done, you are limited to about a 45-50° bend before the lack of support on the backside of the tube lets the tube start to deform and kink....it won't bend far enough to do the main hoop upper corners....but will do most other needed bends to rear bars, engine bay bars, door bars.
After one failed attempt to bend a main hoop, I just bought either S&W Racecars or Competition Engineering main hoops and then built from there. They price them reasonable enough.

There is a reason real tube benders cost what they do.
 

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I saw this video a month or so ago. He bought an unassembled Rogue tube bender. If you can weld, it seems like a deal to me.
 

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View attachment 403537
I think I’m done with the rust repair and ready to order up some tubing to start the roll cage and rear frame section to move the leaf springs inward. Anyone out there have any information on the “Affordable Bender” I’m thinking of ordering one up, looks pretty good. ???
I bought a JD2 Model32 with the one die I needed. It’s a quality piece at at reasonable price. Works flawlessly. I bought a 180 deg die which has never been needed, a 90 deg. would have worked and been more economical. Don’t have any experience with other brands though.


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