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Discussion Starter #1
Any body had any issues with there temp sensor and gauge? Mine was working ok and then when I took out the cluster to rebuild it and now temp gauge will fly over to the H for Hot right when I turn it on. I tried another temp gauge that I have as backup and it did the same thing. So today I switched out the sensor and now the Temp gauge goes all the way past the Cold indicator right when I start it up. I really dont believe that both gauges are bad, so what could it be.
 

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Any body had any issues with there temp sensor and gauge? Mine was working ok and then when I took out the cluster to rebuild it and now temp gauge will fly over to the H for Hot right when I turn it on. I tried another temp gauge that I have as backup and it did the same thing. So today I switched out the sensor and now the Temp gauge goes all the way past the Cold indicator right when I start it up. I really dont believe that both gauges are bad, so what could it be.
I'm not familiar with the Nova wiring, but it sounds like when you put the cluster back in, you have a short in the wiring or sensor. I would try to start it up without the sensor wired in at the motor and see which way the needle moves. I would guess that it's going to go to COLD side.

When you changed out the sensor, it sounds like you replaced it with a temp switch, not a sensor. The temp switch is simply a off/on or open/ground switch to power a temp light. That would possibly be why it goes to COLD when you fire up the car.

I would still try to isolate the problem to the under hood wiring or a bad sensor.

I'm sure others here will have more specifics with first hand experience, but powering up without the sensor hooked up will help lead you in the right direction.

Good luck with the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I had my Mechanic buddy look at it and then his buddy who does a lot off electrical work on cars and he said the the Gauge is failing along with the fuel gauge. I'm still in denial cause the we're both working fine before so why all of a sudden are they both failing. So I guess I'm goIng to bite the bullet and buy the new 4 in 1 gauge kit and see if that solves the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You may have the wrong sender......I beleive the SS gauge sender has a different resistance value than for instanse the Non SS semder.
Not sure what you mean by sender? And I'm not aware in any resistance valve. There are only two wires that connect to the cluster for the Temp. One is for power and the other connects to the temp sensor.
 

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The temp sender is the one in the water neck housing on a 6 cly or the intake on a v-8 sends the signal to the guage in the engine compartment, sometimes even teflon tape on sender could make the temp guage not work correctly.

1963wagonman is correct the sender for the SS guages IS different resistance than the dummy light one !
 

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Not sure what you mean by sender? And I'm not aware in any resistance valve. There are only two wires that connect to the cluster for the Temp. One is for power and the other connects to the temp sensor.
Some times idiot light temp controllers are called sender, as they just send a on/off signal. Inside they get to a certain temp and a bimetalic switch wire bends and makes a contact and grounds the wire to the idiot light turning it on. Sensors on the other hand generally refer to a variable resistance sensor that can send to the gauge a varying amount of resistance depending on the temp in the coolant its in. The variable resistance is linear with the gauge output creating the low to high variable of the gauge needle.

If when the original "sensor" that matches the gauge was replaced and the wrong one put in, a temp "sender" the works with an idiot light, that can do exactly what your gauge is doing.

Just like your gas gauge which works from a variable sensor in the tank, when the is open (broken wire or open in the sensor itself) the gauge goes past full. When you ground the lead wire going back to the tank the gauge should go to empty.

If you had two gauges do the same thing with the changing of the sensor / sender, I would really look to see if you have the right component in stat housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good info thanks guys. I bought a sensor from auto zone for $10 bucks. Might be the problem. When I ground the wire to just the engine block instead of the sensor, the gauge does the same thing and goes past the cold marking on the gauge. When I release it, it goes back to where is should be when the car is turned off.
 
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