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hello everyone I was wondering if You had any suggestions about getting rid of the noise from my audio system. I believe the noise comes from the alternator and it makes a high pitched whining noise that is VERY annoying. I put resistor plugs and plug wires on it but that did not help at all. Someone suggested that i put another battery in the back and wire the radio to that instead, bypassing everything. Any suggestions will be a big help! Thank you!
 

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Try Radio Shack. What you need is an in-line filter. I'm not sure what they call them, but if you tell them it's for alternator noise, they should be able to help.
 

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hello everyone I was wondering if You had any suggestions about getting rid of the noise from my audio system. I believe the noise comes from the alternator and it makes a high pitched whining noise that is VERY annoying. I put resistor plugs and plug wires on it but that did not help at all. Someone suggested that i put another battery in the back and wire the radio to that instead, bypassing everything. Any suggestions will be a big help! Thank you!
Try grounding the stereo directly off your negative terminal of your battery. Start it up and turn the stereo on, listen for the rev noise coming through the speakers. If not great. If you still here it move your ground to stereo around until you find a spot that stops this. It should stop if it is grounded directly to your negative terminal of your battery.
 

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Try grounding the stereo directly off your negative terminal of your battery. Start it up and turn the stereo on, listen for the rev noise coming through the speakers. If not great. If you still here it move your ground to stereo around until you find a spot that stops this. It should stop if it is grounded directly to your negative terminal of your battery.
Maybe use an eye connector and place it under on of the two negative battery cable clamp bolts. Here is a little more info I found on this for you. All strange noises you hear in your speakers are caused by 1 of 2 problems: Ground Loops and EMI (ElectroMagnetic Interference).
Commonly referred to as “engine noises”, these 2 problems are responsible for ALL “engine noise” problems. These problems are
very common after an amplifier has been added to a stereo system. “Engine Noises” are many times hard to diagnose, especially as
more equipment is added to a stereo system. But, there are some very basic rules of thumb to keep in mind when installing an amp that
may prevent “engine noises” in your stereo system. If you already have engine noise, these tips may help you reduce or eliminate
noises already in your system. Just remember, “engine noises” are usually the result of installations where the installer did not prepare
the system to avoid “engine noises”. The best way to prevent “engine noises” is to think ahead by following these tips.
Ground Loops: Electronic circuits are simply a power source connected to device or load (electronic equipment). In order for the
circuit to operate, voltage from the power source (in mobile electronics that source is the vehicles battery) is sent through wires to the
electronic device or equipment. The device will still not work unless a return wire is connected from the devices “ground” connection
to the power sources “ground” connection or terminal which will complete the circuit path allowing the equipment or device to work.
In automotive applications, the vehicles battery has a thick or heavy gauge battery cable connected to the (+) positive terminal or
battery post that supplies the vehicles electrical system with power. What most people do not see is a similar heavy gauge power wire
connected to the batteries (-) negative terminal or battery post. This cable usually connects to the vehicles alternator (-) negative
terminal or contact then it is bolted to the metal frame of the vehicle itself. In doing this, the metal frame of the vehicle is now the
electric “ground” of the vehicle. A “ground” is simply another word for the (-) negative return path back to the power supplies
(vehicles battery) (-) negative terminal or battery post. Auto makers do this because it effectively reduces the wire run through the
electrical system in half. The auto maker generally only has to run (+) positive voltage wires to components while the (-) negative
ground wires can simply be screwed directly to a nearby metal part of the vehicles body frame. This way the (-) negative ground return
to the battery is carried by the vehicles metal frame, to the heavy gauge battery cable bolted to the frame which will return the (-)
negative ground back to the battery - completing the circuit necessary to make the equipment run. Please let me know if grounding it to the negative battery post/cable helps you.
 

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What distributor do you have? I put a petronics set-up in mine and eliminated the points and condenser; I had ignition noise that was eliminated when I put a condenser back in the system, it keeps ignition feedback out of the electrical system.
 
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