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Discussion Starter #1
I've been doing tons of research and I think I have most info figured out. looking to do a basic relocation to free up some space in my engine bay.
based on what I found m y plan is to do the following.

- Run 1/0 awg pure copper cables.
- Pos terminal to starter(Fusible link near battery)
-Neg terminal to block
-Neg terminal to chasis in trunk
- Pos terminal 6awg to alternator (Fusible link near battery)


QUESTION is, I currently have an additional wire going from my positive to the dash/ignition bulk head from the positive terminal. I've read diagrams showing a 3rd direct connection from the battery and I've read I can use the starter as a jumper? the direct connectionmakes the most sense to me, but wondering if I can save a 3rd run of long hot wire?

also, are there any specific terminal connectors you guys recommend? been looking at using the crimpable ring wire terminals to a battery terminal witha bolt connection, or the audio style battery terminals where the wire is locked in via allen key, these leave me to think theres room for a bad/loose connection?

Thanks for reading! hope you all are staying safe out there
 

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I wouldn't use a fusible link for a 1/0 cable. The link would be 4 gauge with a fusing current of 945 amps. I would instead use a 250A in-line fuse like those found on many OEM cars with trunk mounted batteries.
Wire routing is important. OEM installations run the wires through the cabin through well protected holes. Make sure there is plenty of slack in the cable to reduce the chance of abrasion. Some manufacturers use an additional sleeve for added protection.

All OEM rear battery installations use the rear chassis as the ground, with the block grounded to the chassis at the front of the car. The chassis will conduct much more current than a dedicated cable. The most common fault in this area is bad connections. Make sure your chassis and block connections are bare metal with star washers to assure a good connection. If you do run a separate cable, the precautions you take with the positive cable are not necessary.

There is no need to run a separate alternator wire to the rear of the car unless you are trying to meet the requirements of a racing association. I use a terminal box from an 80's GM car on my firewall as the terminal for my long battery cable, and my battery fused charging wire from the alternator goes here. I use another terminal block as my main power distribution point and this is connected by a large wire to the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks mike! I didnt think about running a distribution block at the firewall, that makes sense, power is power, whether its one wire or 3. I do plan on doing some track days and road coursing eventually, So I will have to read the rule books.

I guess my terminology was wrong, I did mean to use a 250A in line fuse. also, I will be running the wires in the cab, over the wheel well and along the door sill.

based on what you are saying, I guess it would make sense that I can use the hot wire from the battery and use the alternator/starter or a dist. block as a jumper to the ignition firewall bulkhead if i decide to not run 3 dedicated wires from the trunk. I was just curious if that might cause me issues not being dedicated to each, starter, alt and ignition bulkhead.
 
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