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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for a drag car to build and run 26x8.5 tires in the 1/8th. I've found a 65' 2 door roller close by that is a pretty bare car. It has no interior, no motor or trans etc. It need the front foot wells replaced but other than that the floors are pretty good. The trunk is also good except for a 3"diameter hole in the middle. The guy sealed up the gas door with bondo:( and he used some bondo to do rust repair in the bottoms of the quarters and fenders. It has a stock front end and rear end.

Bottom line, he was asking $1,200 and I've got him down to $800 but I'm wondering if it's worth it?

What does the front end need to safely run deep deep 6's...same for the rear or will it just take CalTracs and some pinion angle? I just wanna know the shortcomings and pitfalls of the 1st gen cars when it comes to racing them. It will probably remain street legal too...just in case.:devil:
 

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well if it has the stock 10 bolt it wont last to long some guys can get them to work though as for the front end maybe a cpp mini sub frame kit i would defintaly install disc brakes on the front if you got the cash you could always do a front clip of some sort there are a few companys out there i would stick with the caltrac bars and pinion angle you mentioned you may have to mini tub it for those tires im running 255/60/15 mt drag radials on mine i do know that a 235/60/15 mt drag radial fits like a glove in the stock wheel well on a 15x8 with 4.5'' to 5'' backspace the bad thing is those are 26'' tall tires my 255s are a 27'' tall tire but they are 9.5'' wide they fit in my wheel wells snugly but im running a heidts 4 link kit and a heidts front clip i had to do a little massageing to the rear sheet metal to make them work but cosmetically you cant tell i did any thing here are some pics





the top picture is the stance. my car is a 63 nova but they are first gen novas 62-65
 

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Got any pic's? As far as the front end goes. The only thing you really need is to make sure every thing is in good working condition. Other than that I think you can find some thing in better shape for a couple grand more. It just sound's like to much work. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm starting to see (once again) why everyone races Mustangs. For $5K you can buy a turn key race car...and who cares if you wreck one of those!?!?!:yes::devil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well if it has the stock 10 bolt it wont last to long some guys can get them to work though as for the front end maybe a cpp mini sub frame kit i would defintaly install disc brakes on the front if you got the cash you could always do a front clip of some sort there are a few companys out there i would stick with the caltrac bars and pinion angle you mentioned you may have to mini tub it for those tires im running 255/60/15 mt drag radials on mine i do know that a 235/60/15 mt drag radial fits like a glove in the stock wheel well on a 15x8 with 4.5'' to 5'' backspace the bad thing is those are 26'' tall tires my 255s are a 27'' tall tire but they are 9.5'' wide they fit in my wheel wells snugly but im running a heidts 4 link kit and a heidts front clip i had to do a little massageing to the rear sheet metal to make them work but cosmetically you cant tell i did any thing,,,,,,
Nice ride! I was wondering about the front end and the brakes. A 26x8.5 fits in my 64 wagon with no problems too.
 

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For our cars we started with an Aerospace Components disc brake conversion. On the steering end you need to have good joints and bushings. If things are worn you can use a tubular control arm replacement. If your steering box is tight and you have good tie rod ends bushings, so on and so forth you will be o.k.

The problem is usually the lower control arms will continue to have movement in their alignment. The Tubular control arms will take car of that. If you want to take it one step further you can install a comlete bolt in rack and pinion to make things a whole lot nicer all around. Better handling, steering and performance, also you would eliminate all the steering linkage running under the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
For our cars we started with an Aerospace Components disc brake conversion. On the steering end you need to have good joints and bushings. If things are worn you can use a tubular control arm replacement. If your steering box is tight and you have good tie rod ends bushings, so on and so forth you will be o.k.

The problem is usually the lower control arms will continue to have movement in their alignment. The Tubular control arms will take car of that. If you want to take it one step further you can install a comlete bolt in rack and pinion to make things a whole lot nicer all around. Better handling, steering and performance, also you would eliminate all the steering linkage running under the oil pan.
If it were pretty cheap I'd do it...I forgot about the rear steer issue too.
 

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I'm looking for a drag car to build and run 26x8.5 tires in the 1/8th. I've found a 65' 2 door roller close by that is a pretty bare car. It has no interior, no motor or trans etc. It need the front foot wells replaced but other than that the floors are pretty good. The trunk is also good except for a 3"diameter hole in the middle. The guy sealed up the gas door with bondo:( and he used some bondo to do rust repair in the bottoms of the quarters and fenders. It has a stock front end and rear end.

Bottom line, he was asking $1,200 and I've got him down to $800 but I'm wondering if it's worth it?

What does the front end need to safely run deep deep 6's...same for the rear or will it just take CalTracs and some pinion angle? I just wanna know the shortcomings and pitfalls of the 1st gen cars when it comes to racing them. It will probably remain street legal too...just in case.:devil:
I say grab it and build something you can beat the hell out of and not have to worry about getting it scratched.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's the idea, I just want something that doesn't need EVERYTHING done before I can race it...I told my buddy about it and I think he wants it to restore. We'll probably go get it today or tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well it's a moot point. that freakin' car was worth about $100....if that! what a piece of crap!
 

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I still think the one I showed you would be perfect for you to "BEAT ON". But that is JMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
lol. what all was wrong with it.
It would be easier to tell you what was good....

It had a rebuildable 10 bolt rear end, it had all the glass, the doors were good, the passenger fender was good, the rest was rotted all to heck. LOTS of bondo.

Someone had replaced the floor years ago by putting a new floor over a rotted floor...now there are two rotted floors...even the cross members were rotted...the tires were coming apart (no biggie but still), even the wheels were rusty...didn't even have a trunk lid...etc.:turn:
 

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My opinion and my opinion only. I would look around and find a deal on a roller. There are so many cars that are available now. It would cost you double to triple to build one now for what's out there. Find one where you can slap a motor in there and go racing. If you can locate one that has already had some track time, find out their 60 ft. times and you are way ahead of the game.
 

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