Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
At a standstill with my tailgate.

My first step is to get a new motor for the window and see if anything works. Should i try to put the glass in when i test it or should it be able to move on its own?

Also I cannot figure out how to get the tumbler out so that I can also test the key roll-down. Anybody know how to get this tumbler out?

Any other tips of things to look out for trying to get this fixed up other than my finger getting chopped off by the regulator?

The latch and handle to open up the door are also a bit messed up, hoping i can find a new latch mechanism on year one or somewhere like that.

Thanks
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,598 Posts
At a standstill with my tailgate.

My first step is to get a new motor for the window and see if anything works. Should i try to put the glass in when i test it or should it be able to move on its own?

………………...it won't mater if you have the glass in to test the motor and mechanism


Also I cannot figure out how to get the tumbler out so that I can also test the key roll-down. Anybody know how to get this tumbler out?

…………………...the tumbler does not come out , it is part of the electrical switch , you need to remove the whole chrome plate assembly from the tailgate to remove the switch from the chrome trim plate




Any other tips of things to look out for trying to get this fixed up other than my finger getting chopped off by the regulator?


………………….there are 2 lines on the large gears that need to line up when installing the motor

The latch and handle to open up the door are also a bit messed up, hoping i can find a new latch mechanism on year one or somewhere like that.


………...……..not sure if that part is reproduced
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
SCHWABIE thank you for the quick reply and all of the info!


All said and done, looks like I've got a handful to deal with. So even if i were to successfully get that switch apart, I wouldn't be able to put in the trunk tumbler that i got with my lock set (photo attached).

Would my best bet be to try to find a crank replacement? Could I use a 73-91 suburban manual regulator and handle as well or just use the key switch/regulator/motor from one?

Or just get the dash switch working and only use it that way if my regulator works? Or ...the problem is i don't have the key for the switch that's currently in it.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,598 Posts
SCHWABIE thank you for the quick reply and all of the info!


All said and done, looks like I've got a handful to deal with. So even if i were to successfully get that switch apart, I wouldn't be able to put in the trunk tumbler that i got with my lock set (photo attached).

Would my best bet be to try to find a crank replacement? Could I use a 73-91 suburban manual regulator and handle as well or just use the key switch/regulator/motor from one?



….. Suburban regulator from a '82 or older will work will, but not the handle

Or just get the dash switch working and only use it that way if my regulator works? Or ...the problem is i don't have the key for the switch that's currently in it.
….. your door key may operate the tailgate switch , if not , pull off the trim plate that holds the key switch , ( there are 2- 1/4 20 nuts , 7/16 socket that hold the plate onto the tailgate) , if you pull it off there will be 4 numbers stamped on the barrel of the switch , I can decode the number and cut you a key that will work on the power switch

…..here are a couple of helpfull posts

https://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=525289&highlight=power+window

https://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=541905

https://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64713
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Awesome. Thanks for your help and links. I did some digging but didn't find a few of those threads. Well I'll be ordering a motor soon but wont be back in Nashville to work on the car until around June 9th, so I will send you a PM with those numbers when i can get to them and see about getting a key made. Thank you for all your help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,598 Posts
Awesome. Thanks for your help and links. I did some digging but didn't find a few of those threads. Well I'll be ordering a motor soon but wont be back in Nashville to work on the car until around June 9th, so I will send you a PM with those numbers when i can get to them and see about getting a key made. Thank you for all your help.
:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
I've been working on converting from manual to electric. Was your regulator anchored before the motor was pulled? If not, you need to remove it from the tailgate to line up the marks. It comes out the passenger side of the taigate the easiest, I found. This is easier if there are 2 people; be careful. Also, the new motors are grounded on the body and not through the wiring harness, like the original was. When you get your new one, check to see if it has 2 or 3 prongs. A 2-prong one is grounded through the body when it is bolted in. If you don't have the centering plate for the gear, here is what you need - https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-thru-1982-Corvette-Power-Window-Regulator-Motor-Mounting-Plate-NEW/332987922841?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649. This keeps the gear from torquing to one side and jamming or jumping teeth as it moves the window up and down. Here are some pics as I work on mine. Before trying to line up the spring loaded arms, I drilled a hole in the motor driven side and thru to the base plate so that we could put a bolt in it to hold the arms once we lined them up. Once the motor is mounted, you can remove the bolt and bench test the action. lining up the arms so that the window is straight in the tail gate was trial and error. It took us 3 tries of installing and removing it from the tailgate and removing the motor to get it straight.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
As far as the key switch goes, take switch bezel out of the tailgate. To do this, the nuts are just thru the 2 holes that are about 1/3rd of the way down from the top of the gate. Do you have the key for that switch? There are 3 contacts/studs on the back of the switch. Use a meter to test to see if it works. Use the resistance mode on the meter. Hook one lead to the center stud; it is higher up or lower down than the other 2 outer studs,depending on how you are holding it. Hook the other lead to either of the 2 outer studs. Reading the meter, turn your key to see if the circuit opens. Move the lead to the other outer stud, and repeat the process. If both show open when the key is turned, it is good. I've attached a picture of the connector that goes from the wiring harness to the key switch; these are hard to find. The center wire is power, and the other 2 wires go to the 2 up/down wires in the harness for the motor. When i get home, I'll post a picture of the key switch as i have a spare in my parts bin. Hope this helps
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
….. your door key may operate the tailgate switch , if not , pull off the trim plate that holds the key switch , ( there are 2- 1/4 20 nuts , 7/16 socket that hold the plate onto the tailgate) , if you pull it off there will be 4 numbers stamped on the barrel of the switch , I can decode the number and cut you a key that will work on the power switch

schwabie

I wish I knew that a few of years ago !!. But I did manage to make a good working switch from a mixture of a new trunk lock and my old tailgate switch/lock.
I was not the easiest of jobs, in fact it was a real pita but I did it and it is still working after a couple of years and I tend to use it quite a lot.

Cheers Ian:uk:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Alright so, I seem to have hit a wall. I ordered a motor online that was DOA. I'll have to try another one but i could really only find that one and it was off ebay. Refunded immediately no harm done. I forgot to test the wiring from the switch but that can be fixed after i get a working motor and figure out the rest of this. Here are pictures of my switch and regulator (which i pulled out of the back to try to best test the motor). Will i need a new regulator or just a new motor? Any other leads for a motor? Searching for that part number on the sticky I could only find the one that was DOA. I would love to get a key made for the key switch as well if possible. Thanks.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,598 Posts
Alright so, I seem to have hit a wall. I ordered a motor online that was DOA. I'll have to try another one but i could really only find that one and it was off ebay. Refunded immediately no harm done. I forgot to test the wiring from the switch but that can be fixed after i get a working motor and figure out the rest of this. Here are pictures of my switch and regulator (which i pulled out of the back to try to best test the motor). Will i need a new regulator or just a new motor? Any other leads for a motor? Searching for that part number on the sticky I could only find the one that was DOA. I would love to get a key made for the key switch as well if possible. Thanks.
most likely the regulator is fine , they very seldom fail
what is the 4 number code on the switch cylinder ? , I may be able to make you a key
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
most likely the regulator is fine , they very seldom fail
what is the 4 number code on the switch cylinder ? , I may be able to make you a key
Thanks for the link, where is that number code located? The only letters/numbers i saw on there were that B and N.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,542 Posts
A long for the ride...

Might give this some thought...





Mark







.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
alright so I put the motor in with the window but couldn't get any of the electronics going. anybody have wiring diagram I have brown and blue wires on the motor and it's an original motor I believe that was rebuilt.. tried both wires to hot and other to neutral and it looked like it was shorting and no movement. maybe the motor was a bad rebuild or should I just be giving it hot and ground?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Where are you located? I have a guy for the keying on these cars who's great.
Murfreesboro, TN but im planning on getting the car up to Chicago so it can be stored indoors very shortly. I just need a key for the rear lock and that is removed so I could even send the lock somewhere. Let me know.
Thanks!
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top