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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, need some help with a 1.9 amp parasitic load. Located it to LPS fuse inside under dash. Heres what i tried disconnecting: headlight switch, radio, amp, power antenna, wiper switch,gauge cluster power, neutral safety switch, alternator, voltage regulator. No dice. Anyone else got some ideas? Car is a 63 nova ss.

All the inside lights properly shut off when doors are shut, same with glovebox. Tested this by opening door and glovebox and got 3.3 amps, closed back to 1.9 amps. Any other ideas what could be tied into this circuit?
 

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Sounds like a true parasite.
Have you pulled the fuse block to look at the back side and see if there may be debris or a stray wire strand?
Is the fuse standard? Or one of the fancy things, like a 'Glow Fuse'?

Trunk or under-hood light tied in by a PO?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Original wiring, other than what i've added.( stereo, amp, trunk and hood light, dakota digital gauge cluster, dakota digital neutral safety switch) All of which ive disconnected and tested with still 1.9amp draw. Fuse is a regular tube fuse. No lojack, no ecm. Havent checked the back of the fuse box to see if there is stray wires, is this easy to do?
 

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66 Chevy II, Pontiac powered; 68 &75 Firebirds
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I had a battery drain. I also had a parasitic drain. I have an internally regulated alternator. It turned out I had the energizer and voltage sensing wires installed opposite to what they should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Borrowed an awesome fluke clamp meter and found it in 5 minutes. Glovebox shut wasnt depressing plunger all the way all of the time because its a cheap switch from classic industries. Wow, and i thought i checked it. Right tool for the right job! 4 years of unplugging my battery for a glovebox light. If thats not comedy i dont know what is. Anyone got recommendation for a real switch for this?
 

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Modern "replacement" automotive switches are so unreliable and poorly fitting, in my opinion, that I'd probably look into making my own, if it were me.
--Either...
Plunger through a body, operating a standard roller switch. (Which, even from the cheapest suppliers, are usually still okay.)
Or something stupid simple, like adapting a door dome light switch for the job.
 
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