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Discussion Starter #1
The car is a '63 Nova with a 194 and the Pertronix upgrade. Just purchased a new wiring harness (modified to supply 12v to the Pertronix). The car ran fine prior to the new harness. Upon hooking up the new harness the 12v wire to the solenoid became very hot.

I supplied power to the harness when pulled from the solenoid and there were no issues.

I also ran a multimeter across the sloenoid posts which indicated a short. I have not run across a solenoid that shorted out before. Is this likely the problem?

The other concern I have is that if the solenoid is shorted out is there a fuse that should have blown?

Lastly, when I look at the wiring diagram I have it contradicts itself. On one page it shows only one line (Violet) going from the bulkhead to the starter. On another page it shows another line going from the bulkhead to the positive coil terminal and then the starter. What I have is the Violet lead going from the bulkhead to the stater and the 12v source going to the other post and then the positive side of the coil.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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One of the purples should be the start wire that runs through the neutral safety switch. The other violet goes to the opposite side on the solenoid (this is the color coding on a 65 vette I just rewires with a factory harness. Check the wiring diagram to confirm?
 

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A solenoid should not show a direct short when tested between both terminals. Such would indicate a internally defective solenoid.

On 1963 6 cylinder Chevy II/Novas, only one violet wire should run from bulkhead directly to solenoid terminal. Originally, a pink wire is run from the other solenoid terminal to the positive (+) side of the coil.
A black, white, & red wire (resistance wire) is run from the positive (+) coil terminal to the bulkhead. You may need to install a ballast resistor inline within this wire if you are utilizing a high energy coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/beee85/Picture3.png

I cribbed this from another thread. It represents the current wiring setup. The red wire from the fuze panel to the "R" terminal is the one that is getting hot. Is there anything other than a shorted solenoid that would be causing this? It only occurs when hooked to the "R" terminal. If I supply power to the wiring harness without being hooked to the "R" terminal there is no issue.

The original ballast resistor was removed during the Pertronix upgrade, per the instructions, in order to supply 12v to the ignition system. The ballast wire ran from the fuze panel to the "R" terminal and then was routed to the "+" coil terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm going to check my ignition switch wiring as well. I am guessing that the Violet wire is only 12v when cranking?

As for the wire going to the "R" terminal. I understand the jumper to the coil to supply 12v to the ignition but what is the constant 12v in the ignition "on" position providing to the starter? Just making sure I understand the entire circuit.
 

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I just did this to my nova. I reworked my wiring harness rather than replacing it. I Got rid of the pink wire it is no longer needed. Connect the violet wire to the solenoid. Ignition wire from the fuse box formerly the resistor wire goes to the positive side of the coil .

The other terminal on the solenoid was used to supply 12V to the coil during cranking to ensure a faster start up (pink wire). It is NOT needed and should be left with nothing attached to it. Your ignition wire will have 12V whenever the key is in the "on" and "start" position. DO NOT leave the car in "ON" for a long time as you could burn out your new ignition module.

Good luck!!

-Tom
 

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Glad you got it resolved...

Just an FYI, if you run the Ignitor II, you can leave the key on by accident and it wont hurt the module. Ignitor I will burn up.
 
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