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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Had a couple of switches torn apart and thought that I'd share the info that I found. The signal light switch has two power feeds: 1. +12Vdc from flasher and 2. +12Vdc from brake light pedal switch. Here are the connections for an afftermarket sig sw for a 1963 Nova Wagon 400. Incidentally, all the wire colors were correctly matched on the new switch.

1963 Nova Wagon 400 Switch Connections: =========================
YEL: +12Vdc from flasher (when loaded and grounded i.e. with a test light.)
WHT: +12Vdc from brake light pedal switch (at the harness when pedal is depressed.)
PNK: Left Brake/Sig Light
PUR: Right Brake/Sig Light
LT BLU: Left Front Sig Light
DRK BLU: Right Front Sig Light
TAN: Horn.

Proper switch continuity test with switch harness disconnected. The '-' indicates "connection to:"
Signal Left: YEL - PNK - LT BLU (left sig lts) with WHT - PUR (right brake light active).
Neutral: WHT - PNK - PUR. (Brake lights active only).
Signal Right: YEL - DRK BLU - PUR (right sig lts) with WHT - PNK (left brake light active).

Any other connections made other than these in the sw. positions indicated shows a faulty switch. My aftermarket switch was a piece of crap with crappy metal for contacts. After some creative bending and an insulator made from a strip of magazine cover I got it working properly.

1964? 4-dr Sedan Switch connections:============================
PUR: +12Vdc from flasher
BLK/WHT: +12Vdc from brake light pedal switch (at the harness when pedal is depressed.)
BLK/YEL: Left Brake/Sig Light
GRN: Right Brake/Sig Light
BLK/BLU: Left Front Sig Light
DRK BLU: Right Front Sig Light
BLK: Horn

Proper switch continuity test with switch harness disconnected. The '-' indicates "connection to:"
Signal Left: PUR - BLK/YEL - BLK/BLU (left sig lts) with BLK/WHT - GRN (right brake light active).
Neutral: BLK/WHT - BLK/YEL - GRN (brake lights active only).
Signal Right: PUR - DRK BLU - GRN (right sig lts) with BLK/WHT - BLK/YEL (left brake light active).

Any other connections made other than these in the sw. positions indicated shows a faulty switch. This switch was obviously an OEM switch which had much better brass contacts with a much better arrangement of switch. This switch was supposed to be out of a 1964 but the wiring colors don't match to the 1964 schematic...so not sure which car this switch is meant for. The switch is really easy to take apart and observe/tweak/clean the connections and the switch doesn't go "sproing" with bits and pieces flying part. Pretty easy really.
 
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