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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all! First, thanks for the add to the site! I have a 63 nova that I just converted to a 4 speed Muncie. I have the 1/8” throw out to pressure plate clearance and I get no clutch disengagement. Clutch will disengage if I give almost no clearance and bury the pedal, any help would be greatly appreciated. Want to get back on the road
 

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1973 Custom hatchback
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Whoa......you don't want the T/O bearing riding on the clutch fingers. It will wear out.
do you have a a manual...?

I feel your pain.

OP, Is your linkage new? fabricated? custom? original?
Is your engine factory?

Is the Z bar mounted straight?

Does your clutch pedal have full stroke? is there a rubber block rest stop for it in the dash?

When you set the adjustment rod are you able to hold the z bar arm all the way forward?


Ideally the clutch lever will start to feel resistant as the T/O bearing begins to press on the fingers after you have pushed it 1"( check your specific car for the correct measurements)

How are you measuring the 1/8" clearance? is the tranny out?

sorry so many questions bit I just went thru all this and I had to figure out what it is and what its supposed to be.

when I set it up per the manual...I had 4" of clutch travel vice the 1" required and no clutch disengagement.

I lengthened the rod until I had the 1" pedal slack and made sure there was still some slack in the linkages ( ensuring T/O bearing clearance) with the spring OFF.

With the spring on you cant feel the slack.

hope this helps.


BTW, do not adjust it to far in the lengthening, this results in the T/O bearing riding on the fingers and when you put the clutch to the floor the clutch fork pushes off the Bell housing and separates from the pivot ball and its gets ugly quick. Don't ask

When I got the 1" set correctly the clutch works great and no slip.
 

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I lengthened the rod until I had the 1" pedal slack and made sure there was still some slack in the linkages ( ensuring T/O bearing clearance) with the spring OFF.
.
That was my point. My manual had a few funky measurements listed. I just made sure there was slack for the TO and that it all worked.
 

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That was my point. My manual had a few funky measurements listed. I just made sure there was slack for the TO and that it all worked.
Exactly, my manual said to set the rod length by using the upper hole in the Z bar arm , then put it in the actual hole. My aftermarket Z bar only had a 1/8"hole for the set point so the adjustment rod wouldn't fit in it...I got it eyeball close, then had 4" FREE TRAVEL....

I feel our consensus might be the sometimes manual is a starting point.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Whoa......you don't want the T/O bearing riding on the clutch fingers. It will wear out.
do you have a a manual...?

I feel your pain.

OP, Is your linkage new? fabricated? custom? original?
Is your engine factory?

Is the Z bar mounted straight?

Does your clutch pedal have full stroke? is there a rubber block rest stop for it in the dash?

When you set the adjustment rod are you able to hold the z bar arm all the way forward?


Ideally the clutch lever will start to feel resistant as the T/O bearing begins to press on the fingers after you have pushed it 1"( check your specific car for the correct measurements)

How are you measuring the 1/8" clearance? is the tranny out?

sorry so many questions bit I just went thru all this and I had to figure out what it is and what its supposed to be.

when I set it up per the manual...I had 4" of clutch travel vice the 1" required and no clutch disengagement.

I lengthened the rod until I had the 1" pedal slack and made sure there was still some slack in the linkages ( ensuring T/O bearing clearance) with the spring OFF.

With the spring on you cant feel the slack.

hope this helps.


BTW, do not adjust it to far in the lengthening, this results in the T/O bearing riding on the fingers and when you put the clutch to the floor the clutch fork pushes off the Bell housing and separates from the pivot ball and its gets ugly quick. Don't ask

When I got the 1" set correctly the clutch works great and no slip.
Thanks for the long response ! I pulled the rubber fork boot off and looked into the bellhousing. Bottom arm is adjusted so there is 1/8 clearance from pressure plate when clutch pedal is up against rubber stopper and spring is on. No disengagement. Another thing I noticed is my zbar frame bracket is backwards. The opening is facing front of car as opposed to rear. Would this make a difference? How far in the cutout should the pivot ball stud go?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes! At least on my 62 the Z-bar did not function with the frame bracket backwards. In the end, the bracket that went onto the engine block was giving me most of the problems. They need to be bent to keep z bar from binding.
Ok I will try that first. Does the stud on the pivot ball frame side slide all the way down till it bottoms out? Right now it’s half way in it
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Whoa......you don't want the T/O bearing riding on the clutch fingers. It will wear out.
do you have a a manual...?

I feel your pain.

OP, Is your linkage new? fabricated? custom? original?
Is your engine factory?

Is the Z bar mounted straight?

Does your clutch pedal have full stroke? is there a rubber block rest stop for it in the dash?

When you set the adjustment rod are you able to hold the z bar arm all the way forward?


Ideally the clutch lever will start to feel resistant as the T/O bearing begins to press on the fingers after you have pushed it 1"( check your specific car for the correct measurements)

How are you measuring the 1/8" clearance? is the tranny out?

sorry so many questions bit I just went thru all this and I had to figure out what it is and what its supposed to be.

when I set it up per the manual...I had 4" of clutch travel vice the 1" required and no clutch disengagement.

I lengthened the rod until I had the 1" pedal slack and made sure there was still some slack in the linkages ( ensuring T/O bearing clearance) with the spring OFF.

With the spring on you cant feel the slack.

hope this helps.


BTW, do not adjust it to far in the lengthening, this results in the T/O bearing riding on the fingers and when you put the clutch to the floor the clutch fork pushes off the Bell housing and separates from the pivot ball and its gets ugly quick. Don't ask

When I got the 1" set correctly the clutch works great and no slip.
My kit is the 4speedconversions 62- kit with the 7:00 bellhousing and the short TO, flat fork, and a non adjustable pivot ball.
 

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Check out the welds on the Z bar too.
They are prone to cracking / splitting the tube.
I assume it's new if you got a kit but new stuff breaks too.
Mine failed & it was impossible to see up under the column.
 

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