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Most of us will have to do this eventually, so a writeup might help. Nothing earth shaking here, but what the heck.

Here are most of the items involved. My original frames are in pretty good shape, so I reused those, and the glass itself.

The lower tracks are almost always rusted out. There are two small screws at the back lower corner of the glass that were solidly fused with rust. I ended up using a dremel cutoff to dig them out, which left some scars on the frame. This is never visible with the glass in the door.



Use a razor and steel wool to clean up any stuck on debris.

Put the upper L shaped frame on first. The set tape is 5/64" thick, purchased online. Run the tape around your glass to find the length you need, then cut it. Fold the tape in half along its length. Pinch it so that the fold stays. It'll tend to stay more even on the glass that way. Use dish soap to lube both sides of the tape. Put it on the glass, then force it into the frame on a carpeted surface. Don't be afraid to lean on it.



Before you assemble the lower track into the frame, be sure to chase the threads. They are 8/32. The lower track will need to be hammered into the frame. I had to use vise grips first to spread the frame open. The folded section of metal that contains the threaded holes is wider and thicker than the original.



This was my second set of aftermarket lower tracks. The first set wasn't welded correctly, and the edge of the track hit the edge of the glass when I tried to assemble them.

There will be excess tape sticking up past the edges.



Trim it with a razor.



I used #10 washers to make sure of good contact, since the holes were somewhat enlarged,



Once your excess tape is cut away, wipe everything down, and you're done.

 

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Nice write up..Have you installed a set of the PUI door/window felts on your 63..I have a 63 without the post...I could not get mine installed and ended up messing up the felt since its not a direct fit and has to be either screwed or pop rivited inplace.

I bought another set, and yep screwed that set up as well. Installing these just don't seem to be within my DNA...One guy told me its best to take the hole window and vent window out to install them...What are your thoughts on this if you don't mind answering..

When installed the window felt seem to have way too much pressure on the glass when install and they make the window very hard to roll up. In my case it would bind the window when trying to roll up and down so I just removed them....

Eddie
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice write up..Have you installed a set of the PUI door/window felts on your 63..I have a 63 without the post...I could not get mine installed and ended up messing up the felt since its not a direct fit and has to be either screwed or pop rivited inplace.

I bought another set, and yep screwed that set up as well. Installing these just don't seem to be within my DNA...One guy told me its best to take the hole window and vent window out to install them...What are your thoughts on this if you don't mind answering..

When installed the window felt seem to have way too much pressure on the glass when install and they make the window very hard to roll up. In my case it would bind the window when trying to roll up and down so I just removed them....

Eddie
Eddie, are you talking about the fuzzy strip that clips into the inside edge of the window opening? I put that in before the vent window, and had no issues. It was the "Re-Pops" brand. I am saving the rubber piece that goes on the outside of the window opening until after I have the regulator and glass in.

There is also a 'felt' on the back edge of the vent window, and a vertical channel down inside the door at the rear side of the door.
 

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Its the rubber one that has the clips and slide into the door tabs. Its the rubber one designed to keep water from running down inside the glass and into the door...I hope this helps...If not let me know...

Eddie
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its the rubber one that has the clips and slide into the door tabs. Its the rubber one designed to keep water from running down inside the glass and into the door...I hope this helps...If not let me know...

Eddie
Ok. I have not put that one in yet. My plan is to put it in after the regulator and the glass. I'll let you know if I have any problems with it.
 

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Great write up. I did all new side glass this winter in my veritable, but did not document it. It was a painful learning experience to say the least.

I installed the glass on the lower frame first (both door and quarter windows), followed by surround frame. Don't know why I used that order, but it worked out. Hindsight, your sequence may be better.

You mentioned how difficult the lower frame was to install. I did not spread mine. I used the cork set material and soaked it for about an hour and then lubricated it with some soap just before starting. Using hand pressure I was able to get the glass started into the lower frame channel. I followed this with two woodworking 'pony' clamps to seat the window into the lower frame. No pounding at all. I used the same pony clamps to set the surround frames using the same glass set material you did.

As far as the fuzzies and rubbers, I screwed up one side by attempting to set them before setting the window. Lesson learned. I set the vent window frame, then set the glass with frame completely inside the window off the regulator, then set the fuzzie and rubber wiper with reveal trim, and then pushed the glass back up to regulator bar. I found removing the door handle rods helped a lot. This sequence allowed me room to set the front screw on the rubber wiper.

Another lesson learned. Be sure to bend the tabs in the rubber wiper the correct way. That is, they go completely opposite of the way they come in new. This forms the best connection. Take some time with applying the rubbers to the reveal door trim. I had to make some small modifications to the tabs to be sure they all fit tightly in the slots. The same two tabs off were off on both sides - repo mistake.

My biggest oops was when I went to screw the back end of the one rubber wiper to the door. I forget to check screw length compared to old rusty one I had pulled out months earlier. The new screw I put it was a only slightly longer, which put a dimple in my fresh G&L straighten and polished reveal trim  (I have not had the guts to tell George, but he’ll see it when I send it back this winter for repairs.)

Good luck. The new side glass, despite the long hours to complete, was a great upgrade.


Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You mentioned how difficult the lower frame was to install. I did not spread mine. I used the cork set material and soaked it for about an hour and then lubricated it with some soap just before starting. Using hand pressure I was able to get the glass started into the lower frame channel. I followed this with two woodworking 'pony' clamps to seat the window into the lower frame. No pounding at all. I used the same pony clamps to set the surround frames using the same glass set material you did.
The only hammering required was due to metal to metal contact. For me, the threaded section was too wide, as mentioned. I have my originals for comparison, so the difference was obvious. The glass and set tape went into the channel easily. With the second set of tracks, that is. As far as getting the glass into the frames, it was simply a matter of turning them upside down, and pushing with my hands.
 

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Nice write up Greg! If you use a spray OIL like chain and cable fluid or WD-40 it will slide a lot easier! The oil will cause the rubber to swell and lock onto the glass You can also stretch the rubber prior to spraying it with oil. The "correct" way to install these is to install the outer chrome first then the bottom channel. The screws you used MAY interfere with the run channels and tear them I would try and find a tapered set.

Otherwise a good write up!

stupesnova
 

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So I used 1/16th tape like everyone said, lubed it with soap and it seems to have slop in it and basically slid back off. Did I do something wrong?

65 Chevy II front passenger door glass.
 

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not sure of the thickness, but bought mine from Chevy2Only, and you will have to smash the glass before it ever pops out.

here is the link:
https://gmclassics.com/part/glass-set-gasket/

not sure if there's a piece left to measure, but will look if no one chimes in.

if you didn't have to push and smack it with some serious force to get it in, either the frame needs to be bent to tighten it up or the tape may be incorrect.

is it a reproduction or factory window frame?

-Rusty
 

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Hey Rusty,

Yeah somewhere on one of the post the tape was 1/16 for main glasses and 1/32 for vent glass so thats what I ordered and been working with.
 

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basically lubed it up, pressed it on. split at the end and not sure but the rest the window just kind of pulled back apart.

I creased the tape like everyone stated, placed over the glass first than pressed the molding over it.

I used straight Dawn so not sure I should've diluted it or not..

At a loss at this point.
 

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found a piece...

my "set tape" is a little bigger than 1/16, it is actually 2 mm exactly; it's cork backed with a black cloth-type material. is that what you are using?

it was a crazy tight fit, and i used it on the vent window, too (equally difficult to get in).

WD-40 helped ease it in, though, per a member's advice.

-Rusty
 

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thats basically 5/64ths tape. Now I am wondering if I have the wrong tape, but I did read 1/16 tape for front glass on some link here.

I don't think adding the 1/32 and 1/16 i have together would work either because that would basically 2.381 or 3/32 tape. I would imagine that would be extremely too think.

now I'm at dead end again. Guess Im going to pass on this glass install tonight until maybe someone chimes in and confirms or denies. Im with you though, i think it should've been a harder glass install then it was.
 

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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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If you are using new OER lower glass channel you will need to install something like 3M 08609 Window Weld Super Fast Urathane to fill the channel so the glass will not move around in the channel. I posted a installation instructions that I found a few months ago and it's on your regulator thread. I have also seen where it is said 1/16" is for side glass and 1/32" is for vent glass. The problem with ordering from GMClassics is they don't specify what thickness their glass spacing tape is.

This is a more appropriate location for what I found so maybe this will help. A lot more involved than what was posted in 2010.

The way you’ve described your installation it appears you will most likely have to go up in size to at least a 5/64” tape but measuring will give you the size you need.

"Using a Caliper, do the following process to determine the spacing tape thickness required:
1- Measure the gap width of the channel.
2- Measure the thickness of the glass.
3- Subtract the thickness of the glass from the width of the channel.
4- Divide that number by two.
5- The spacing tape you need should be one of the following- 1/32", 3/64", 1/16", 5/64"
When you receive your new spacing tape do a test fit by wrapping the bottom edge of the glass with the spacing tape, apply soapy water to the tape and insert the tape and window into the channel. A good tight fit without distorting or tearing the tape is what you are looking for.

If you are installing your glass into an OEM channel there should be a factory filler already installed to take up the extra space inside the channel which will stabilize the glass when it is installed. If you are installing the glass into an OER channel (repop) you will have to fill that void with some type of filler such as 3M 08609 Window Weld Fast Dry Urethane after you get a good spacing tape and glass fit.

When the glass and spacing tape are a sufficiently tight fit, you will need to install your Door Glass Upper Window Fame and Seal to ensure the door glass can be set deep enough into the lower channel. If you are satisfied all is well, remove the upper frame, along with the spacing tape and glass from the lower channel.

Now use 3M 08609 as a filler. Install masking tape along the inner and outer edge of the lower channel to keep any filler from adhering to the metal and to avoid scratches. If the window and spacing tape are tight there should not be any filler being squeezed up along the spacing tape but will be squeezed out the ends of the channel. Fill the channel about 2/3rd full of filler and then reinstall the spacing tape and glass. Reinstall the upper window frame and seal to again ensure the glass is sitting deep enough into the lower channel.

Make sure the glass is setting straight in the channel. Compare the fitment of the glass in the channel by looking along the edge. Once you’re satisfied with the fit, leave it to dry. After the weld fast has cured then use a razor blade to trim and remove the excess and you’re good to go."

If you use this process please check back to let us know if it is a valid method. :yes:
 
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