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Discussion Starter #1
I have noticed that there is a company reproducting the gagues and clocks for the 63 nova.
Has anyone compared them to the orgionals and how accurate are they?
 

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What company is this ??? Link ???

I've seen the '65 clocks reproduced (silver circle on face) but not all black face (63-64).
 

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I bought new speedo, clock, and SS gauges for mine to get it on the road. I did put them side by side and there are some differences for sure. Very subtle though. Only a die hard nova person would be able to tell once installed. They look and work great. For all 3 new you are looking at $650

The biggest difference I noticed was the cover for the 4 gauge pod. its the piece that you see with the 4 windows in it. The chrome mylar button in the center is lacking a recess in the center. So its convex instead of concave, so I retained my original for that.

Also the font for the odometer numbers differs from original.

As mentioned by tony they only reproduce the silver faced clock.

I think next year I would like to either have mine restored or buy some already restored just to keep as many original parts on the car as possible. There is a guy on ebay that has sold some refurbished original clocks that I may try. I have an NOS one in the box but am afraid to ruin it. :D
 

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I wish I could just put an original face on my new clock, but something about pulling the hands off of a $180 clock when I have no clue how makes me cringe. If I knew it would work I would do it because I would love to have a black face again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If this is the same seller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Checy-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cdbe968d&vxp=mtr


I'm rather reluctant as this is just basically cleaned, lubricated, & running - however may still be short lived as 99% of the originals were. I think that the quartz movement/conversion is definately the way to go.
As far as one of the orgionals lasing, I have read there is a procedure for "winding" them you have to do everytime you disconect the battery to ensure that the spring does not become too tight.
I know it is in one of my old shop manuals from the 60s. if I remember corectly, you have to connect for a few seconds, let it wind down and then reconnect. a well placed swith could make the process much better.
 

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As far as one of the orgionals lasing, I have read there is a procedure for "winding" them you have to do everytime you disconect the battery to ensure that the spring does not become too tight.
I know it is in one of my old shop manuals from the 60s. if I remember corectly, you have to connect for a few seconds, let it wind down and then reconnect. a well placed swith could make the process much better.
The site I linked in the post above has a great description of how these clocks work and why they all die. Even if you're going to get a quartz replacement, I highly recommend reading it just for the education.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The site I linked in the post above has a great description of how these clocks work and why they all die. Even if you're going to get a quartz replacement, I highly recommend reading it just for the education.
great article, but I think the ones in our cars are a little diffrent, because I know they can be over wound. It has been 20 years since I took mine appart, but if memory serves corect, the winding arm works like a ratchet and if the battery is disconnected too many times in a short perioid, it over winds the spring and has to be manually sprung.
I did this about 3 times on my old clock before it died for good. but at that time I was just a teen trying to get my old car running. Now days I handle my car part more gently.
 

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