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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys I used the the wiring diagrams and got all the wiring hooked up properly. The problem is with my turn signal switch. The wire that moves the switch slides without actually moving the clamp so only my front turn signals work. When I do slide the switch with my hand there is no problem so the wiring is perfect. I have tried two switches and still the same problem. Anyone have a similar problem? Any mods to solve this problem? Also my tail light socket fall out easily. Previous owner taped them but I replaced the sockets. Any suggestions there?
 

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Huh?? I am not sure what switch you can mount on the dash? Also your symptom of only the front blinker working as a result of a switch is confusing. I am no expert, but I have worked on mine and believe I understand the system.

Are you talking about the mico switch under the dash mounted on the column? If so there is a fine wire from the colunm level piviot to this switch which is known to be problematic. This was a year one only set up. Not very robust. The shop manual describes it as a 'self correcting' switch which means some times it slips but will supposedly fix itself. That describes how mine works, thankfully. As I remember there is a section in the shop manual that notes the wire can slip through the little friction lever/ bracket attached to the micro switch and describes a procedure to adjust it if it does not fix itself. I would follow that procedure and make sure the wire and its lever components are in fact working properly. (Pivot point screw coming loose or being to tight is also problematic), You can verify the wire and switch's phyiscal operation if you stand on your head while moving the TS lever. Second option is to change out to 63-65 column which has a more modern type contact switch at the lever.

I also believe there are only two contacts, left or right, in the switch. Its either making contact or its not. It makes no sense it would have four contacts where only one half of one side (e.g. front only) would be making contact. So I am confused by the front only symptom. Most likely not a switch problem. Its sounds more like a wiring or grounding issue after the switch. Try looking at the wiring plug on the switch as well as the stabs on the switch.

I had simular rear socket issues. Someone got there before me and had replaced the factory sockets with O'Reilly's finest. First I extended the metal tabs. That worked for short time. I finally bought new quality sockets from Chevy II Only. No problems since :yes:

Best of luck. Lets us know how its going. Take a picture of the switch on the dash set up, I am curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are you talking about the mico switch under the dash mounted on the column? If so there is a fine wire from the colunm level piviot to this switch which is known to be problematic. This was a year one only set up. Not very robust. The shop manual describes it as a 'self correcting' switch which means some times it slips but will supposedly fix itself. That describes how mine works, thankfully. As I remember there is a section in the shop manual that notes the wire can slip through the little friction lever/ bracket attached to the micro switch and describes a procedure to adjust it if it does not fix itself. I would follow that procedure and make sure the wire and its lever components are in fact working properly. (Pivot point screw coming loose or being to tight is also problematic), You can verify the wire and switch's phyiscal operation if you stand on your head while moving the TS lever. Second option is to change out to 63-65 column which has a more modern type contact switch at the lever.

I also believe there are only two contacts, left or right, in the switch. Its either making contact or its not. It makes no sense it would have four contacts where only one half of one side (e.g. front only) would be making contact. So I am confused by the front only symptom. Most likely not a switch problem. Its sounds more like a wiring or grounding issue after the switch. Try looking at the wiring plug on the switch as well as the stabs on the switch.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah the wire is slipping and only slides the switch partially. When the bracket does not move all the way to either side, only the front turn signals turn on. Here is a pic of what I mounted on my dash. I just slide the bracket with my hand and it works fine. Problem is I have to return the bracket to the center position after a turn. The arrow points to the metal bracket I slide with my hand.
 

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Yea, thats the "self adjusting" switch the shop manual discusses. :yes: HITH did you get the wiring harness up to the dash to plug this baby in and operate it! :eek: My harness does not have that much slack in it.

Like I had said earlier, I believe the switch itself only has 2 contacts internally, from that point the single contact is spilit using a solid metal bar connected to the two connector stabs you see on the outside (total of 5 with one being the common power). There is a chance one of those spiliting bars broke internally, but less likely that two went bad leaving only the front blinkers on both sides. Even more unlikely is that a second switch suffered the same fate. But the fact you can make it work with your finger is hard to ignore. Couple of suggestions:

1) get a hold of a 62 shop manual and follow procedure to adjustment of the wire to level connection. This and a 62 Assembly Manual are a must have investment. Also suggest using electrical spray inside these old switches to lubricate the internal parts. They are 47 years old and subject to metal corrosion.

2) Buy a brand new switch. At best this is a delicate device and connection in its prime. Corrosion can play havoc in unpredicatible ways. New switches are available from several sources for around $13. Chevy 2 Only has been nice to me, but there are others.

3) Pull the wheel (not an option really). Its not a big deal and your local autoparts store will loan you the puller. Make sure all is working well at the cancel cam, especially the pivot point mount. Following the shop manual recommendation, I found my piviot point bolt was loose and immediately fixed my blinker issue once tighten up (do not overtighten). I say fixed, I mean it works the same 90 - 95 % of the time as it did out of the factory, the other 5 -10% is fixed by the self adjusting switch (LOL). I usually visually check each time I am using the blinker and cancel it if not working. It will typically work the second time.

4) While you are in the wheel, I would replace the blinker cancel mechanism because a) its cheap and b) can be a contributing source of the blinker issues and c) most are worn out and allow the blinkers to stay on.


I am considering replacing my column for this exact reason. Its a weak link to safety and I would rather have a more robust and dependable system that 63 - 64 offers. 99% of the people would never know the swap out unless they were looking for the self adjusting switch.

Hope this helps. Keep us apprised.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks I will definitely get a manual but I already tried adjusting the cable and it would work a few times and then the cable would slip again without moving the bracket. I purchased another switch from a member here to see if it was my switch and I had the same problem. I removed the electric tape around the wire to give the switch enough slack to reach the bottom of my dash. My car had a stereo mounted there with door hinges and I used the holes to secure the switch temporarily. My cancel cam worked when I had the switch mounted on the column but I guess I might as well change it. I removed a steering wheel on my Elco before so I know how to go about removing my wheel.
 
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