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Discussion Starter #1
I would like to see some chassis headers pics and give opinions on your selection and how easy or not it is for changing plugs, etc...It will help me for a future build.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
okay great. Well from what I've seen those hooker headers don't look nice to put on or change plugs.
 

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I use the J&W Nova primaries for my headers, they fit pretty well. The fit of the headers varies greatly depending on the type of heads used and the machining done to them. When I swapped from Wright Stuff SPII's to some angle milled AFR's the collectors moved about 1/2" closer together, and when I put a Reymosa crate motor in they moved the other way. In a Nova engine compartment there isn't a whole lot of room to move around like that.
 

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I have hooker super comps on my 66, the plug changes are easy. Putting them on is'nt too bad, there are two bolts that are a booger to get to. Otherwise I like them.

Len
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for that link. I would still like to see some pics.

FYI this would be for a daily driven street/weekend strip bracket car with a 400 sbc and a th350 with 3.08 gears and 26" tires for my wife. Standard 23* stock configuration heads. Looks like straight plug would be the best bet with these headers unless someone shows me different.
 

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What exactly do you want to see? I have some pictures on my photobucket link but could easily snap some specific shots if I knew what you were looking for.
 

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Hooker 2243 fit well and are not to bad to change plugs.That is with revised straight plug AFR heads at least.I found this link last night.

http://www.nocturnaloner.net/Nova/earlynovaheaders.htm
Hey, that's my website. Man, is it old!:D Anyway, after all the thread reading, I settled on the Doug's D367Y, and the fit is very nice. I have not put in plugs yet. I have ProComp aluminum heads, stock front clip, with the CPP mini subframe kit. I took the dremel tool and nibbled on part of the flange where the front end bolts to the body, but it was very minor. All the steering box and idler arm clearance problems that people seem to have were a non-issue.
 

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Very cool to be able to go to one site and see all of the different configuration of headers available for our cars.Thanks for setting that up
 

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Discussion Starter #11
its probably too hard to get the angles and the shots, but was curious how the chassis headers fit in relation to the back 4 cylinders and how close the plugs are and getting header bolts in, etc... My hands don't exactly fit in tight areas. I like the doug tri-y's, the headman 1 5/8" ones would be good if I can get my hands in there to change plugs, etc...the hooker super comps....man I don't know...lol

thanks guys appreciate the time and help.
 

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its probably too hard to get the angles and the shots, but was curious how the chassis headers fit in relation to the back 4 cylinders and how close the plugs are and getting header bolts in, etc... My hands don't exactly fit in tight areas. I like the doug tri-y's, the headman 1 5/8" ones would be good if I can get my hands in there to change plugs, etc...the hooker super comps....man I don't know...lol

thanks guys appreciate the time and help.
Okay, some of these pics actually make the clearance look tighter than it is, and my brake lines are not secured, everything is just mocked up, really, but here you go:






 

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I got some spark plugs and spun them in by hand. The tough one as usual is #4, which is right next to the shock tower on the passenger side. In fact, I got under the car to get the proper angle. I generally end up using a wrench on number 4. Number 7 is very close to a tight bend, so that one might be tough with a ratchet as well. Overall though, I would say these headers are no more difficult than manifolds to install plugs around.







 
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