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Discussion Starter #1
Is possible to get a 1.8-1.9 60ft on a street tire? They are BF Goodrich TA radials. Last year I was getting 2.1-2.15 60 ft times with no loss of traction at all. The front end has decent travel which seems to help a lot.

The car last year with a tiny hurt cam ran a best of 14.34 @ 96 with a 2.13..ish 60ft. The new cam brought the mph up to consistent 98 and 99 but the 60fts and times didnt change much due to the loss of torque. But, Im finally getting around to putting in a new converter which should stall around 3100-3300 rpm, (old one stalled at 2000). Im hoping will bring my 60ft times way down since it starts to come alive at 3000 rpm, if it will hook at all. 13s are my goal this year

-Dan
 

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My best ever 60' or true street radials was a 1.68 with multiple 1.72's to back it up. The was in my wife's 84 Camaro with 265x50x15 Futura radials (PepBoys special).:yes: Man, did that car pi$$ a lot of people off back in the day.:devil:

It's funny. With radials you do all kinds of stuff to try and soften the "Hit" whereas with slicks you do just the opposite.:rolleyes: As long as the front stays down and the tires don't shake....:D
 

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I've run a best of 6.98 @ 101.1 eighth mile (roughly equal to 10.99 @ 125 in the quarter) so far on hard street tires with a 1.63 60' time with many more in the 1.64-68 range. Tires are 275-60-15 Mastercraft Avengers with a 440 treadwear rating. the fastest 60' I've seen on hard tires is the 1.59 a friend of mine ran on Firestones, I think they're "Indy 500's", also 275-60-15.
We race in a heads up, pro tree hard tire class called Street Radial at our local track.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wow, so I shouldnt have much trouble getting my little 350 to hook then lol. Thanks guys. I might pick up some drag radials to try out if I cant get it consistent.

-Dan
 

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Those are the exception, not the rule. I'd blow street tires off all the time running 13.0x's. If you have a healthy small block and there are no class restrictions, get a set of drag radials and save the headaches/inconsistency.

Kev
 

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Those are the exception, not the rule. I'd blow street tires off all the time running 13.0x's. If you have a healthy small block and there are no class restrictions, get a set of drag radials and save the headaches/inconsistency.

Kev
Agreed.:yes:
There's several tricks to "Rolling out" and limiting the initial HIT on the tires. If it's not class required, it's easy enough to avoid.:yes:
Consistency is a LOT easier without all the extra headaches.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ive had a few members suggest Firestone Firehawks Indy 500s. It seems you guys have good luck with them. Im not running any type of street class the requires a street tire, just test and tune for fun. I know the tires I have on there now bite very well as long as I get some front end travel to transfer the weight. Leaving from an idle really helps and doesn't shock the tires too bad (minimal wheel spin). If I try to leave on the converter, they just burn. Drag Radials may be a waist considering how little I go to the drag strip. Ill run what I have and see what they can handle.

Thanks
-Dan
 

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haulinassmaro is a member on here he used to have a mustang that had tha pep boys tires and he said they dead hooked on the street.

Curious what tire pressure do you run and are you doing a burnout? I was told doing a burnout on street radials will make it worse.
 

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I was told doing a burnout on street radials will make it worse.
Just do enough to clean the crap off them. Now with DOT drag tire you would want to do a toasty little burn out, but not a John Force type burn out. :devil:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
haulinassmaro is a member on here he used to have a mustang that had tha pep boys tires and he said they dead hooked on the street.

Curious what tire pressure do you run and are you doing a burnout? I was told doing a burnout on street radials will make it worse.
I have the BF Goodrich Radial TA tires. I dont do a burn out, i go around the water box and just spin them enough to clean them off. They hook pretty well even on the street but that is do to the amount of weight transfer I think. When I had air shocks on the rear and really limited front end travel, they would spin all the time.

-dan
 

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haulinassmaro is a member on here he used to have a mustang that had tha pep boys tires and he said they dead hooked on the street.

Curious what tire pressure do you run and are you doing a burnout? I was told doing a burnout on street radials will make it worse.

We'd set 'em on fire.:devil: 3 gears and 6600 for a few seconds usually. Tire pressure was dictated by the wheel width. Find a good clean CONCRETE parking lot with lots of open room and show up with the tires at max pressure (typically 35 psi). Start letting air out a few pounds at a time and just burp the throttle and look at the tire marks. Continue this procedure until the marks on the ground are the full width of the tire and evenly colored all the way across. Too much air and the marks will be darker in the center (ever wonder why the center tread always burns off first?:yes:) Too little air and the marks will be darker on the outside edges. You'll likely find a 5 pound window where they look the same. I usually run the air pressure at the top of that window for top end stability.:yes:

There's an 8 1/2" tire class starting to catch on down here. I've got an old street racing bud (long retired from the street scene) that's running 5.8x's in the eighth with a 1.2-1.3 60' on 26x8.5's..:yes: And there's more left in it!! The engine dyno'd over 960 BEFORE the sheetmetal intake went on!! Not bad for a little 392" SBF.:devil:

A LOT of the tricks for killing the 60' is in the converter and shocks.:yes:

Anything's possible if you're willing to put in the work and R&D. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Cool, ill take it out and play this weekend. I know the perfect spot to burn them a bit to find the right pressure. I was running about 28 psi last time at the track but ill see what pressure gives me the best marks.

Thanks
-Dan
 
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