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Discussion Starter #1
My car is to the point that I can drive it a little now, but she's running hot. The engine is a 502 backed by a th-350 and a for 9 inch. The engine has aluminum heads and a mild cam.....the radiator is dual row aluminum with a spal fan and shroud. I have taken out the thermostat to try and get the temps down with no results.....the car is running about 200-205 sitting there and 220-230 under power, Scary. The car has ac but it is not hooked up yet, additionally it has low gears 4:56. The temperature is pulled from the head and not the intake per my friends suggestion, though I generally like to read the temp from the intake.

Suggestions????

The engine hasn't puked that much and doesn't really seem to be that hot?
 

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I went through this with my 454, you need bigger rad like a griffen 19x31 with 1.250 tubes and a 160 thermostat, i run a heavy duty flex fan and a back up pusher when temps get to 200.
 

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I think you get a more accurate temp reading from the intake instead of the head, where the exhaust can raise the temp a bit.
 

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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-58295R/

How about this radiator and fan combo???
Isn't that essentially the same radiator you're already running? I'm not sure that's going to solve your problems. If it were me, I think I would switch to a high flow aluminum water pump and get a Lincoln Mark 8 electric fan. I'd also reinstall the thermostat and move the temp sender to the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Isn't that essentially the same radiator you're already running? I'm not sure that's going to solve your problems. If it were me, I think I would switch to a high flow aluminum water pump and get a Lincoln Mark 8 electric fan. I'd also reinstall the thermostat and move the temp sender to the intake.
My radiator is only 18.625x26in opposed to 18.5x33.6.....I have a good water pump and a spal fan that's rated at either 3,200 or 3,600, but I think dual fans would be better.

I will move the temp sender to the intake for sure.
 

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Is the gauge accurate? I had a similar issue, pulled the gauge put the sensor in boiling water, (Water begins to boil at 212 degrees at sea level ) it was reading too high by 25 degrees, Bought a new gauge. I have my sensor in the intake, have a high flow pump and running Taurus fans. Runs at 185- 190 in traffic or when hard on it. I also have one of those hand held Infrared Thermometers. Good to have around to check various temps on the motor and tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Whoops, missed that part. Your going to need some core support surgery to fit that big radiator.
I don't think it'll take a whole lot to get it to fit....just a little trimming
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You'll need to open up the opening in the core support a couple inches on each side. The only problem I can see is if your battery is still in the stock location.
The battery thankfully is already mounted in the back....so just opening it up some shouldn't be that big of an issue I hope.
 

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First off, you can't run them with nothing in place of the thermostat. The water does not get a chance to cool down. In my experience, removing the thermostat always makes them worse. I'm not a fan of thermostats either unless it's a stock config and this one is not. I'd recommend you buy the Moroso water restrictors. Put the middle size one in and never think about that part of the puzzle again.

I use a Griffen alum radiator with 2 rows of 1" tubes, a Ron Davis electric fan, Meziere electric pump, and the Moroso restrictor to cool my setup. I've got a 14:1, alum headed 540ci BBC that makes 850hp and I've driven it a lot of miles with no cooling problems at all.
 

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what cam

i think with that much gear ,, i'd put a decent sized cam in it ,, would help free it up if u drive it on the street alot

give us a pick of your hose configuration on the water pump

i had a few friends with BBC's on the street , the heating problems they had is why i dodge them myself , this was a long time ago ,,, these were prolly more race than street motors though , on the street ,,

i'd put a bottle of Pro Blend in it myself ,,
 

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First off, you can't run them with nothing in place of the thermostat. The water does not get a chance to cool down. In my experience, removing the thermostat always makes them worse. I'm not a fan of thermostats either unless it's a stock config and this one is not. I'd recommend you buy the Moroso water restrictors. Put the middle size one in and never think about that part of the puzzle again.

I use a Griffen alum radiator with 2 rows of 1" tubes, a Ron Davis electric fan, Meziere electric pump, and the Moroso restrictor to cool my setup. I've got a 14:1, alum headed 540ci BBC that makes 850hp and I've driven it a lot of miles with no cooling problems at all.
Yup. You must run some form of flow restrictor. You can gut your existing thermostat if need be.
 

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Also keep in mind the quality of the radiator is just as important as the size. A BeCool of the same size and construciotn as a generic will cool much better. I speak from experience, I tried a few radiators in a couple Novas I put a 572's in and none did the job as well as a BeCool or an Afco. Both keep them cool without cutting the core support. I also used a mechanical fan and a custom built aluminum shroudfor best results.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I already have the flow restrictor in there....looks like a becool, afco, or flex-a-lite is the next step. Is becool considered the best of these 3?
 

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In my opinion yes. But I'm not familiar with the flexlite stuff so I can't say on them. I do think Afco is a better bargain than BeCool though if money is a concern. They will get the job done.
 

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I wish Mike Goble was still on the board. He was a bit of an expert on thermodynamics. IIRC, the flow restrictors hurt the cooling efficiency of the system, not help them. I can't give you the science (I'm an accountant) but that's the basic summary. Pull the restrictor out and see if it works.

Kev
 

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Remove the restrictor and run a thermostat with a small bleed hole drilled in the flange.
 

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I wish Mike Goble was still on the board. He was a bit of an expert on thermodynamics. IIRC, the flow restrictors hurt the cooling efficiency of the system, not help them. I can't give you the science (I'm an accountant) but that's the basic summary. Pull the restrictor out and see if it works.

Kev
That is true the old saying about having to stay in the radiator to "Cool Off" is a wife’s tale started by Grumpy Jenkins years ago. An overdrive water pump pulley and moving the water as fast as possible is your best way to cool an engine down. I swapped to a pulley slightly bigger crank factory pulley and it made the engine run cooler. It overdrives the fan and water pump 16% faster than crank speed moving water faster through the radiator. If moving the water slower through the radiator is what you want get a 20% under drive pulley and see what happens to water temps. :eek:
 
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