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Discussion Starter #1
can it be done??

Im going to buy a nitrous kit off some dude i know for 150 bucks. Its never been used and the kit retails for 500 new. I was gonna flip it but if i can run it on my motor for awhile with no problems i would do that too...

Not the way the engine sits but after i throw in a cam heads intake carb etc
 

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Like Bowtie said, as long as the fuel and ignition systems are up to par it should live forever!!

Just remember, as with any nitrous application, if it goes lean for any reason (inadequate fuel delivery) or the ignition misfires because it's not up to the task things will get UGLY faster than you can pull the plug!!!:yes:
 

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Just remember, as with any nitrous application, if it goes lean for any reason (inadequate fuel delivery) or the ignition misfires because it's not up to the task things will get UGLY faster than you can pull the plug!!!:yes:
Only if it detonates:D

I'd rather it on the lean side than overly fat. A fat tune is NOT a safe tune, contrary to popular belief. People lift pistons all the time, and think that their tune was too lean...When it was really too fat and that caused the lifted ringland. DO NOT use recommended NOS jetting...WAYYY too fat:yes:
 

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My system calls for 5 psi fuel pressure, I run it 5-1/2 to 5-3/4 psi. I've never gone any lower with it and I've never hurt any parts.
At that time the car was running high 6.70's - 6.80's in good air, on motor only (iron headed 406, 3.73 gear, 9" street tire) and with the 200 shot it went 6.13. Might have gone quicker in a straight line--it skated around a bit between the 330 and the finish line!
 

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Only if it detonates:D

1. I'd rather it on the lean side than overly fat.
2. A fat tune is NOT a safe tune, contrary to popular belief.
3. People lift pistons all the time, and think that their tune was too lean...When it was really too fat and that caused the lifted ringland.
4. DO NOT use recommended NOS jetting...WAYYY too fat:yes:
1. Only if I'm using standard type plugs and not the racing versions with inconel straps!! On a standard plug the strap will melt off and cause a miss before it burns or breaks a piston.:yes:

2. Never said it was.:no:

3. That's more commonly caused by the top ring gap being too tight.:yes:

4. I've always used the NOS jetting as a baseline and never hurt anything.:no: There's a good bit more power to be found if you know how to read your plugs and adjust the fuel pressure:yes: but that's stuff that's typically not for the novice used.:no:
 

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I have been wondering the same thing.

Would it be better to have a worn engine than a really tight one?

I have an msd street fire HEI,Taylor plug wires.1/2 inch fuel line and a performer RPM mechanical fuel pump.

Think it's up to the task?
 

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I've always used the jetting that came in package--Nitrous Works kits seem to be leaner than NOS--mine uses a 81 nitrous jet, and 78 fuel jet. The nitrous solenoid only has a .078 orifice, so what good is an 81 jet??
 

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I have been wondering the same thing.

Would it be better to have a worn engine than a really tight one?

I have an msd street fire HEI,Taylor plug wires.1/2 inch fuel line and a performer RPM mechanical fuel pump.

Think it's up to the task?
Should be fine. Just start small and work your way up.:yes:
 

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1. Only if I'm using standard type plugs and not the racing versions with inconel straps!! On a standard plug the strap will melt off and cause a miss before it burns or breaks a piston.:yes:

2. Never said it was.:no:

3. That's more commonly caused by the top ring gap being too tight.:yes:

4. I've always used the NOS jetting as a baseline and never hurt anything.:no: There's a good bit more power to be found if you know how to read your plugs and adjust the fuel pressure:yes: but that's stuff that's typically not for the novice used.:no:
I tune for the spark plug...If you've ever played with big tunes, you'll find out that NOS is way fat. Go on YellowBullet and look for Steve Johnson or Monte Smith...Both VERY knowledgeable and they will both tell you this.

I like minimal color on nitrous plugs...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks for the info guys!

How easy is it to hook this stuff up???
 

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Only gonna make you want more.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
would nitrous work ok with a comp cams xe 262 cam????
 

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Yes,nitrous would work with any cam.I have read that nitrous likes cams with more duration.Due to the valves being open longer and letting in more nitrous.The torque and cylinder pressure you loose with the longer duration is more than made up for with the nitrous.

One thing you have to remember with a street car.Or a daily driver is that you should set the motor up to run well without the nitrous.Being as your not gonna be driving down the free way or taking off from a stop sign sprayin...

The only experince I have with nitrous and a basicly stock sbc was a freind of mine.He put a used kit off a buddies race truck on his daily driver.It blew a piston apart the second time he used it.Turns out it had the wrong pills in it and they where sprayin way more than they needed to.:rolleyes:

I plan on buying a brand new kit.That way I know everything should work well and hasn't been hacked.

I forgot one thing.My motor has Arp head studs and new fel pro gaskets.The lower end is a completly stock 4 bolt,cast crank 70's 350.... It runs good like it is.But I plan on taking it the strip and getting a 69 truck to keep up with new ls1's and mustangs is gonna be a task.Well see if I gotta go with the spray or not.....
 

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Yes,nitrous would work with any cam.I have read that nitrous likes cams with more duration. Due to the valves being open longer and letting in more nitrous.The torque and cylinder pressure you loose with the longer duration is more than made up for with the nitrous.
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IIRC, nitrous produces so much low-end torque that it isn't safe to use under 3000rpm. Is this correct? It can also produce extreme cylinder pressure.
 

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First off let me say I have very little actual time with nitrous.So someone else will have to say for sure if this is for sure.Even though it's what I have read and experinced.

Yes nitrous adds a whole lot of cylinder pressure.That's why when people design an engine for nitrous it uses a lower compression ratio.Kinda like a forced induction motor.Unless your lower end is very built a high compression ratio and nitrous are not good togother.Stuff goes cablooey!Of course timing switches and what not help....

Second of all not sure why.But most nitrous kits use some kind of WOT switch.To ensure that engine is revved up enough to handle the nitrous.I know the RPM's jump really fast once it has been sprayed though.

I am sure someone who sprays there own motor can help alot more than I can.:yes:
 

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I recommend getting a MSD window switch. It will not activate below a certain rpm and will shut off after a higher set rpm. Its good insurance and they are not too expensive. Abottle warmer and purge valve are also good upgrades and will net you the most consistant results.

:D Your gonna be hooked really quick. Its addicting until you have to drop the 40-50 Dollars every time to fill the bottle. That is the only turn off for me.
 
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