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Ok, I was wondering if you guys could recommend some parts for me.
I have done all the major upgrades on my 79 nova before painting it except the suspension upgrade.
I have some KYB gas shocks for it and plan on getting REAR 6 LEAFSPRINGS (from springking0001 on ebay) and the 67-79 Nova Rear Leaf Spring Installation Kit from Paddock.
I was wondering about the front springs. Is there a better choice then the Front Coil Springs from Paddock?
Also, any recommendation on Bushings or any other parts I should look into?

Thank you in Advance
 

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4th Gen Suspension Upgrades - In order of effectiveness

Drag/Straight Line (Sticky tires are first priority to hooking!):

1. Competition Engineering traction bars, SSM lift bars, Slide A Links, or Cal Tracs (cal tracs/slides are best).
2. Competition Engineering Subframe Connectors
3. Summit/Comp Eng 90/10 front drag shocks - stockers work fine in the back
4. Front - Moroso Trick Springs.... PN 47175 with small block
5. Back - Calvert Split Mono Leaf Springs or rebuilt stockers will work fine
6. Poly bushing kit from energy suspension
http://www.suspension.com/nova.htm
PN 3.18117 + 3.6112 = $203.00
7. Tubular Control Arms (more weight than anything)
8. Cut down upper bump stops
9. Remove front sway bar
10. Relocate shocks to inside of springs and get them hanging with a little more angle - will allow you to run a VERY large tire (295/65 15 with 5.5-6" bs).

Autocross/Pro Touring (Short/stiff tires! large diameter wheels!):
1. Poly bushing kit from energy suspension
http://www.suspension.com/nova.htm
PN 3.18117 + 3.6112 = $203.00
2. Subframe Connectors
3. Larger Front Sway Bar - ADDCO #020-709 (Jegs)
4. Smaller Rear Sway Bar - ADDCO #020-671 (Jegs)
5. Hotchkins lowering springs
6. QA1 Coil Overs, Other High End Shocks
7. Four Link Rear Suspension
8. Tubular Control Arms with increased camber built in

Basic Affordable Cruiser:
1. Poly bushing kit from energy suspension
http://www.suspension.com/nova.htm
PN 3.18117 + 3.6112 = $203.00
2. New Coil Springs - ebay, paddock, classic industries, local shop, Pep Boys?
3. New Leaf Springs - JC Whitney + same as coils
4. Subframe Connectors
5. Traction Bars - replace the spring pad, not the universal clamp ons
6. KYB or better gas shocks all around - NO AIR SHOCKS

Kev (might want to sticky this - add as appropriate)
 

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I've used DMProducts on ebay for subframe connectors. They say they're for up to '76 but I don't buy it. I think they're the same all the way to '79.

Summit sells the Competition Engineering connectors. Jegs sells them under their "Jegster" brand for cheap. They're all basically the same bolt in bars.

Chris Alston and Global West make tubular weld in connectors that are probably a little better at building a tight chassis, but you have to cut the floor and weld the bars in. They're a little more of a pain than many people want to deal with. They're also more $$$.

I'd look at the Jegster bars personally.

Kev
 

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dose anyone have any pics

i want to up grade mine as well. you guys have pictures. control arms, sinpdles, sway bar, and all that good stuff.:confused:
 

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I PM'd you some info on Airbags, so this will be a good lead in to this - anybody have any pictures of a Gen 4 that is airbagged? I don't think I've ever seen one - let's see how low one of these Gen 4s will go (there's got to be somebody who has bagged one or has pics of one bagged). Anybody?
 

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Does anyone have a part number on tubular upper a arms that are reasonably priced everything I am finding is ridiculous
Thanks in advance
 

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You can use 2nd Gen F-Body control arms.

Summit and Classic Industries have the cheapest ones I know of:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-770210/overview/year/1973/make/chevrolet/model/camaro

My Dad used the Summit ones on his '75 and said they went in really easy and work great.

Pro-Touring F Body also makes a nice kit, but they're more money:

http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/control_arms.html

There's barely any benefit in swapping to tubular lowers other than weight, so I'd save my money there. The uppers let you add more caster adjustment, that's the biggest benefit. After thinking back and forth on it, I ended up with my stock arms with Del A Lum bushings and tall ball joints. I was able to get about 3.5 degrees of caster and about a half degree of negative camber out of that setup. It handles ridiculously well for a fat old disco nova.

Kev
 

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You can use 2nd Gen F-Body control arms.
Summit and Classic Industries have the cheapest ones I know of:
1973 CHEVROLET CAMARO Summit Racing® Premium Front Control Arms SUM-770210
My Dad used the Summit ones on his '75 and said they went in really easy and work great.
Pro-Touring F Body also makes a nice kit, but they're more money:
control arms
There's barely any benefit in swapping to tubular lowers other than weight, so I'd save my money there. The uppers let you add more caster adjustment, that's the biggest benefit. After thinking back and forth on it, I ended up with my stock arms with Del A Lum bushings and tall ball joints. I was able to get about 3.5 degrees of caster and about a half degree of negative camber out of that setup. It handles ridiculously well for a fat old disco nova.
Kev
Kev, Thx for the tip. Wondering if there are any fitment issues with using these F-body upper control arms on 4th Gen Novas? How are these different than the C/As specifically listed for the 75-79 Nova? Trimming required, tweaks, compromises?
 

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I have some oem 2nd gen Camaro arms.
I can measure mine and you can measure yours and we can post it up on here to reveal the dimensions..

Usually, the differences are in the offset of the ball joint to the crossshaft..
 

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2nd Camaro upper control arms are offset 3/8” to the rear.. Cross shaft to the ball joint c/l is 8 3/4”..
F48D3A45-65AB-4361-B5A6-CE1A591F1B24.jpeg
1C7A1E56-EB41-4EF9-BEF8-A88F07D0014F.jpeg
 

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Usually, the differences are in the offset of the ball joint to the crossshaft.... 2nd Camaro upper control arms are offset 3/8” to the rear
I measured my 76 Nova stock uppers and looks to be pretty close to the same as yours 2nd Gen Camaro ones. But not sure these dimensions tell us anything about the differences in aftermarket tubular control arms for 4th Gen Nova and 2nd Gen Camaros? You mentioned 2nd Gen Camaro ones are offset 3/8". Is that from the centerline of the ball joint?
What I'm trying to learn is what compromise(s) are there in buying the much cheaper 2nd Gen Camaro ones? What does that translate to in fitment, alignment, etc. Offset 3/8" means you won't notice the difference, or something you need to mention to your alignment guy?
 

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I measured my 76 Nova stock uppers and looks to be pretty close to the same as yours 2nd Gen Camaro ones. But not sure these dimensions tell us anything about the differences in aftermarket tubular control arms for 4th Gen Nova and 2nd Gen Camaros? You mentioned 2nd Gen Camaro ones are offset 3/8". Is that from the centerline of the ball joint?
What I'm trying to learn is what compromise(s) are there in buying the much cheaper 2nd Gen Camaro ones? What does that translate to in fitment, alignment, etc. Offset 3/8" means you won't notice the difference, or something you need to mention to your alignment guy?
If your upper control arms are the same based on the dimensions then they are likely going to be the same. Knowing these two dimensions is how you can tell if an aftermarket tubular arm is going to be different then stock spec OEM arms in terms of suspension geometry. More offset and a shorter distance from cross shaft to ball joint c/l will give more caster and more negative camber gain respectively. In 1970 the 2nd gen Camaro got a major suspension redesign. A new subframe and taller spindles were the basis around which the new suspension was designed. These spindles improved the camber curve along with new control arms and a forward mounted steering box resolved most of the short comings of the 67-69 F/X body which the Nova shared up to 1970. In 1975 the Nova got a new subframe that incorporated the tall spindles, new subframe, control arms and forward mounted steering box.

If you are looking to improve handling then the upper control arms are going to be the most important change you can make. Knowing the dimensions of your arms will give you an idea of how to determine if an aftermarket control arm is merely a tubular stock spec arm for looks or is functionally going to make a difference..
52231A86-0DE0-4054-BFB0-37FE2F57D993.jpeg
 

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Global West shows their upper control arms for 70-81 F body and 75-79 X body use the same part number CTA 71A.
 
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