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When putting the light on my 468ci BBC is hows my timing to be around 60 degrees advanced. Try to retard it down and it of course wants to die when I get down to about 25 degrees. Running a MSD PN8361, took the cap off and its all scared on the inside like physically ground down and scrapped up like the rotor hit the cap when spinning. I put the car to TDC and the rotor points closer to cylinder 8 then it does cylinder 1 wire. Do i just need to change my wire's? I did read that the timing could be picking up cylinder 8 instead of 1? So confused at this point.
 

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468 Timing

As long as you're tinkering with it,i would find #1 TDC again with a wire in #1 plug hole on the compression stroke. Move the crank by hand & don't look at the timing tab until you have it at true TDC. Now look at the tab--is it at 0* ? if so pull the dist. cap & see how things line up. If the rotor is between #1 & 8, pull the dist. & move it a tooth. I would wrather do it this way than move the wires---just me i guess. They will run a tooth off but the starter usually grunts hard to turn it over after a hot soak condition. Hope this helps you.
 

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Timing 468

I tried moving the distributor a tooth, but it really only wants to go in one way?
It's the oil pump driveshaft to dist. gear alignment messing you up. Just put a long large flatblade screwdriver down the dist. hole & turn the oil pump shaft a smidge in the direction you want the rotor to turn. The dist. will go right in. A lot of people like to bump the starter over & let the dist fall in that way. If you're by yourself it sucks. so do it my way.:)
 

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It's the oil pump driveshaft to dist. gear alignment messing you up. Just put a long large flatblade screwdriver down the dist. hole & turn the oil pump shaft a smidge in the direction you want the rotor to turn. The dist. will go right in. A lot of people like to bump the starter over & let the dist fall in that way. If you're by yourself it sucks. so do it my way.:)
Also, prepare to start swearing if you can't get it lined up after the first 5 or 6 tries. That's what I usually do and it helps, haha!
 

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When putting the light on my 468ci BBC is hows my timing to be around 60 degrees advanced. Try to retard it down and it of course wants to die when I get down to about 25 degrees. Running a MSD PN8361, took the cap off and its all scared on the inside like physically ground down and scrapped up like the rotor hit the cap when spinning. I put the car to TDC and the rotor points closer to cylinder 8 then it does cylinder 1 wire. Do i just need to change my wire's? I did read that the timing could be picking up cylinder 8 instead of 1? So confused at this point.
I would be concerned about the rotor to cap interference. Maybe too much end clearance in the distributor shaft? I think you should also verify that the timing marks read zero/TDC when the #1 piston is at TDC. The large screwdriver to clock the oil pump driveshaft is the way to go and will save a lot of hassle. I match the rotor tang with #1 on the cap and then mark the dist. housing with a magic marker, that way you can see when you drop it in if it lines up correctly.
 

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Most likely your main issue is the timing marks on your balancer are off. Common issue with older elastomer balancers. As mentioned before, find true top dead center in the number 1 cylinder and see where your timing marks are. What happens is the outer ring slips out of alignment. Three fixes, 1st wrap timing tape around balancer setting 0 at TDC. Cheapest fix. 2nd, buy a balancer cover (make sure 0 lines up right when you bolt it on). Next cheapest fix. 3rd, replace balancer with a good quality balancer (SFI approved/certified). Most expensive fix.

Hope that helps.
Sam
 
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