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Discussion Starter #1
well in april i blew the ole 406 up. it shut down at the 60ft mark at atlanta motor speedway friday night drags. least i pulled a car and a half on a gutted s10 with a small kit haha. the damage is a broke crank(before the front main cap) broke the cam in 5 peices bent 2 valves lol.didnt hurt the block tho.ive had the block line bored studed the bottom end with arp studs,scat lightweight crank.still gonna use the same rods and pistons.im gonna buy new rod bolts and have the bottom end balenced.gonna have a 7 qt pan hv oil pump like to get some alum heads but i may port the world sr tq heads and re use them.im gonna run a bigger isky solid flat tappet 585 lift cam,i forgot the duration ha. and imma run a team g intake with my 750cfm holley hp dp. should b fun when i get her back runnin.ill post pics later
 

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Just a suggestion, a little punctuation and caps in the right places would make your post much much easier to read.

Is there a reason you aren't going with a hydraulic roller? Good luck with the new build.
 

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Good luck with the new combination.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just a suggestion, a little punctuation and caps in the right places would make your post much much easier to read.

Is there a reason you aren't going with a hydraulic roller? Good luck with the new build.
Sorry I was useing a on screen keyboard at the time and was haveing problems useing it. Cant afford a roller cam and plus last few hyd cams i've mest with has stopped pulling when i hit 3rd gear. Problem went away with the last cam swap which was a solid flat tappet.
 

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Just a couple random thoughts. Any idea why the cam and crank broke to begin with? From where the crank failed it sounds like a timing chain issue. Cam breaking in several peices would also be unusual in my experiences so I'd be looking at why that happened. If you change the rod bolts don't forget to resize the rods.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well from what i found and asked a few machine shops is the crank broke because i didnt have the block line bored a few years ago when i spun 2 main bearings. i just used emerory cloth to clean the stock crank up and put new rod and main bearings in.Ive put like 5000 hard miles on it since. And with sprayin a 150 shot of nitrous didnt help it. So basicly taken the cheap way out was a ticking time bomb. The cam breaking i believe was caused when the crank broke at 6200rpm with the timeing chain still attached to it. Ive since then had the block check to see if it was still ok and they said it was. I did have it line bored this go around tho.
 

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I C, makes sense since it tore up before. Did they alighn bore the block or did they hone it? You may know the timing chain may be a issue and make different chains to fix the block being redone but I mention it just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alighn bore. They said imma have to get a shorter timeing chain. Thats ok cuz i needed another one anyway haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
old isky cam







new scat light weight crank



block back from the machine shop. had the block line bored vated and new cam bearings installed. i used clevite h series bearings, arp main studs



fresh coat of purple

 

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Discussion Starter #15
lol its mine and my dads race team colors. Always have purple motors and black cars lol. Gotta keep the tradition alive.
 
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