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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up this motor about six years ago and would like some build advice.
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400 2 bolt +.040 bore.
I need advice on a rotating assembly and a hydraulic roller cam.
I have a set of 76 cc RPM heads, and Proflo fuel injection that should support 550 HP with 44lb injectors.
Should I go with a short stroke and go with better flowing heads or go for max displacement and lower RPMs. The vacuume will need to be greater than 10 at 1000 RPMs.

I was thinking splayed mains and horizontally supported lifters.
Any thoughts appreciated.
 

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I would stay with the stock stroke. 3.75. and if you have the EDDY RPM heads they are a 70 cc chamber. splayed mains arnt necesary if your going to build a street car JMO. i have ran this same block with the 2 bolt on a street set up that made 493 hp and 499 tq at the crank. with no problems. if the motor is going to live at high rpm and be raced alot than i would say yah it is worth it. again JMO. the FI set should run good on it. but with a .040 over 400 i would recomend a good cooling system and an oil cooler to help it with the heat. good luck with the build.
 

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I was thinking splayed mains and horizontally supported lifters
If the intake is only good for 550 max h.p., and using a hyd. roller, I wouldn't do anything to the block--keep the stock stroke (or maybe a bit more) and just use torque to move the car. Most hyd. rollers don't rev very high anyway unless you spend a bunch on valvesprings. Keep a 6000 rpm limit, and it should live a nice long life. Even a stock 400 crank would work if you don't spin it to the moon, although my old cast 400 crank saw 8000+ at times!
 

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stock 400 crank will handle quit a bit. im runing mid 9's with a stock crank in my car.:yes: i shift at 7200 RPM and am making about 825-850 HP at the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, I will shoot for 10.5 compression and use a stock spec stroke forged crank with all ARP hardware. The cam I will hit up the techs at Eddy for sudjestions. Just may need some piston selection help for the 70 cc RPM Heads. The block is not decked.

Cooling will be assisted with Be Cool radiator and full length 12Qt oil pan. I also run an auxiliary engine compartment evacuation fan for stoplights.
 

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The cam I will hit up the techs at Eddy
I would try a cam MAKER, not a cam SELLER.
And for about $155 you could get a Scat cast crank that is stronger than a stock casting, and is plenty for what you are doing. You could spend the extra money on other parts to make more power.
Mahle flat top pistons are very nice, and not too expensive--I would get the block decked after to buy your pistons--use that extra crank money, it'll be worth it.
 

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Yes I agree a stock 400 crank will do fine. For budget racing engines I have the stock cranks nitrided but for the money you can buy a nice scat 9000 series cast crank and be fine. With that 509 block that is about the best stock block you can find. No need for splayed mains good ARP bolts or studs are fine. Just go thru the block and remove any sharp edges in the main webbing and at the bottom of the cylinders, also open up the oil return holes. Go check out the KB pistons website: www.kb-silvoite.com check out their KB signature series forged pistons and also there is a compression ratio calculator. Just type in your specs and it will give you as close to an accurate compression ratio aside from performing all the measurements.

And yes contact a cam maker, either harold berkshire who was the man at ultradyne or John Dougherty(camgrinder) hes a member here.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the link. So I guess I lucked out on the $250 investment. It came with a set of Claimer 8-H3416+.040 pistons in the box and a receipt for bore and magniflux.
 
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