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Discussion Starter #1
swapping in a super t10 4 speed in place of the th350 in my 72 nova sbc 350. ordered the clutch pedal kit from ground up restoration. problem is the clutch fork is several inches lower that the linkage rod arm on the z bar. putting too much downward angle pressure on the fork causing it to wedge against the bottom of the bell house fork hole. what did I do wrong? do I have the wrong bell house, wrong z bar, or both or something else??? hope that I explained the problem correctly. Dan
 

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on my 69 Nova -- I did an "auto to manual" trans change-over , about a year ago. I bought all my 'change-over parts' from Chevy2only ... pedals, z-bar, clutch linkage, ect , and everything worked great.
I used the stock GM bellhousing # 3858403 .... call it a "403" bell for sbc, bbc, 6cyl engines using the 153 tooth flywheel.
So, what is / was your th350 'flex-plate' -- 153 or 168 -- should be the 153 tooth flywheel. 68-72 Novas use the 9 o'clock opening for the "throw-out-bearing / clutch arm" .

If your bellhousing IS aftermarket --- then I don't know.









#1 look on your bell -- GM # 3858403 is cast into your bell ( factory type sbc alumn. with a 4 11/16" center hole.



#2 #403 bell bolted to a GM Saginaw 4 speed



#3 # 403 bell bolted to a '93 GMC S-15 W/C T 5 5speed tranny
............... click the top bar , and enlarge picture, then read bell # ?



This 403 bellhousing uses a 10.5 " dia clutch disc.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
pulled the tanny out and discovered that i have the wrong bellhousing, my casting number ends in 383 not 403. also my fork number is for a 73-78 light truck or car according to specs i found on line, do i also have to get the fork that is specific for a 68-72 nova? thanks dan
 

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Dan

That answer is --YES & NO

They are so many GM type clutch arms made for many different Chevy cars / trucks ... that just looking at some of those clutch release / throw-out bearing arms , you would guess that they would fit & work (and some will). But too cover your butt-- I'd get one for 68-72 Nova (or you may be having too pull u'r trans over & over more times)..... just my
2cents, if you understand my meaning.
My clutch arm DID-NOT have any number on it -- and, it was with my 403 bell -- it worked for me. Then, when I bought my "clutch kit" -- I bought for my 69 car (which gave me the proper length throw-out bearing ).

p.s. -- I used that T 5 5speed in my Nova , behind my 250 / I-6.

I think you are good with your 'clutch pedal kit' -- should work, ok ---as long as it fits correctly. One item that I DID change , was my
'small rubber clutch rod boot - upper boot .... the one that I got (was new), but developed a couple holes in the boot - even before I used it. I then ordered & used the 'Rubber Boot for the '75 - '79 Nova (from
www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com TRN - 1066 ) -- for a better fit.

also, look at this "clutch release arm" @ http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/store/product/ TRN - 1043

do you have a "Factory Assembly Manual" for your year Nova ........ it will list all these factory part numbers ....... that lets you "cross reference" these part numbers on the HBC web-site.

I hope this Helps ...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for all the info jim. should have checked in with you guys before jumping in with both feet. looking for a 403 bell and hoping that the fork is with it. thanks again Dan
 

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Look here at the "rubber boot" --- the 'smooth' boot ... is the one required. Thats the 'rubber boot that got holes' in it even before I installed it.

#1

http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/...Pedal-Upper-Push-Rod-Rubber-Boot-GM#-3909071/

#2

HeartBeatCity "clutch release arm"

http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/...Assembly-All-SB-&-BB-OE-Quality!-GM#-3892632/

This IS the rubber boot -- that I used with my 'install'

#3

http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/...rebird-Clutch-Push-Rod-Rubber-Boot-OE-Style!/


I checked the "TOP Links" --- didn't work !

The links should work correctly now.

Once you use the HBC site ......... it's a very good place.
BECAUSE : it shows pictures of each item - FAM Part Numbers - and list for "Which Application (car) that part will fit". Those Camaro's use ALOT of OUR parts.

sorry

p.s. --- I did buy from them --- THEY Treated ME VERY GOOD .
 

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Casting #3840383 and #3858403 bellhousings are the same and interchangeable. Casting #3788383 would not fit on a ST-10 without modifications.
If the fork push rod is going down several inches you definitely have some incorrect parts. Can you take pictures of the position of the z bar lower arm and the angle of the fork push rod.
Most if not all clutch kits come with the same throwout bearing (Short). A longer throwout bearing may be needed to get the clutch to release, but would make the fork rod angle even more severe. You need to figure out the linkage first.
Is your return spring holding your clutch pedal up against the pedal stop bumper ?
 

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Man I feel your pain.

Couple questions: where did you mount the engine side ball stud for the Z-bar?

Do you have this rubber block( SS396 PN FPB-103) for our clutch to rest against in the dash.?
Installing is will change the fore and aft geamotry.

https://www.ss396.com/nova/FPB-103....onversion_product_id=4835&cartype=nova&year=0


The ball stud can be mounted on the rear of the engine block( at least in my case), or on the bell housing. See the attached photos from my unique setup. Note that a adapter plate for the ball stud was made to attain proper alignment of the linkage.
My REMAN engine may have come out of a truck, which may or may not be relevant to my particular geometry. This may explain why my engine has mount hole in the block if you don't. Suggest you look at that.

One thing I learned that I haven't found discussed much is the starter boss on the Bell housing(B/H). When we swap an Auto to a manual the bell housing ( PN 3899621 from Groundup) wont clear the larger starter nose.
I am assuming the PNs in play here have no issues with that, but I bring it up JIC you do end up getting a new B/H, and I hope you don't.

Where did your engine come from?

In the picture attached the extra spring( circled) is something I installed in an attempt to locate/ eliminate a rattle I have.

SO....I'm thinking maybe you can adapt what you have vice buying a bunch of new parts.

Hope this helps LMK if I can give you any specifics GL.
 

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Dan

Rupert .... is correct , you may also need that "clutch pedal rubber bumper". My pedal kit -- Did not have that part. (I had too buy that x-tra).

just FYI

good luck .... & if I can help any ....... I'm here


NPHNP ......... called "SNS"
 

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Discussion Starter #12
would like to send some pics but have already pulled the tranny and bellhousing out. Ball stud screws in the block close to the oil filter. z bar looks to be straight and level. the arm on the z bar that ataches the ajustable linkage to the fork looks to be to short to me. ajustable linkage runs down hill from arm to the fork about an 1 to 1 1/2 by looking at it. didnt take a measurment on it, just know that it is too much angle, as the fork is pushing down against the bellhouse opening. the clutch pedal kit came from ground up ss396 out of there nova cataloge.
 

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would like to send some pics but have already pulled the tranny and bellhousing out. Ball stud screws in the block close to the oil filter. z bar looks to be straight and level. the arm on the z bar that ataches the ajustable linkage to the fork looks to be to short to me. ajustable linkage runs down hill from arm to the fork about an 1 to 1 1/2 by looking at it. didnt take a measurment on it, just know that it is too much angle, as the fork is pushing down against the bellhouse opening. the clutch pedal kit came from ground up ss396 out of there nova cataloge.
Sounds like you have the right pedal, Z-bar and linkage. Just the wrong clock on the bell housing. The difference between 7 and 9 O'clock will give you that difference. Sounds like the bell housing you have now is for a first or second Gen.
 

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would like to send some pics but have already pulled the tranny and bellhousing out. Ball stud screws in the block close to the oil filter. z bar looks to be straight and level. the arm on the z bar that ataches the ajustable linkage to the fork looks to be to short to me. ajustable linkage runs down hill from arm to the fork about an 1 to 1 1/2 by looking at it. didnt take a measurment on it, just know that it is too much angle, as the fork is pushing down against the bellhouse opening. the clutch pedal kit came from ground up ss396 out of there nova cataloge.
What is the complete PART NUMBER of your Bell Housing?

from 4 speed post above:

Casting #3840383 and #3858403 bellhousings are the same and interchangeable. Casting #3788383 would not fit on a ST-10 without modifications.


Casting 3799383 photos:
https://www.google.com/search?q=bel...qOvgAhWhg-AKHcKXA80Q_AUIDygC&biw=1536&bih=753

3799383 has the opening for the clutch fork at the 7 oclock positon vice the needed 9 oclock position.

If it turns out you have this and need a new bell housing do NOT purchase the one from ground up, pn 3898621, ..unless you change your starter as the casting they sell will not fit over the starter nose. ( ask me how I know this).
better off getting one of the two PNs provided above, even from a scrap yard.
See my post # 162 here:

https://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634449&page=11

Note: in the picture I am comparing my "truck bell housing, PN 460486, which has a 5 1/8" center hole vice the REQUIRED 4 5/8" car tranny hole, to the 3898621, AKA the 621 B/H. I added a bushing to my B/H make it tight as it should be. Also note the painted black truck bell housing is fatter around the clutch. This is to accommodate a 12" clutch. The clutch linkage geometry, bolt patterns etc are all the same . both are for a 168 tooth flywheel.

Suggest you start by counting your teeth and Identifying your starter before you procede
 

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Discussion Starter #18
really confussed now!!!! put my bellhousing on the bench and put the fork in and it dosn't look like it is comming out at the 9 o'clock position. looks more like 7:30 or 8 not way off center but enough to notice, now that i know i have a problem. my comlete number is 3840383, that is suposed to be the 9 oclock bell. also noticed that the clevage dent on the fork for the ajusting rod is semi circled down on the end of the fork not in the center of the fork (hope that made sense to you guys). not sure how to post pics.have them on my stupid phone yet. dan
 

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That number bell housing is the right one from the pictures I've seen of it. Maybe your fork wasn't seated on the pivot ball inside the bell housing. The fork has to surround the throw out bearing and the clip on the back holds it on the pivot ball. Without the adjuster inserted in the end, you should be able to move the fork back and forth between the front of the trans and the pressure plate diaphragm fingers,
 
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