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Discussion Starter #1
So i want a finished look for my 73 nova. Right now im a bit ways away. But i do plan to have 2 10s and a few amps. I always like that custom upholstery look you see at car shows or what not. Theres a company that popped up when i googled trunk panel kit. But its listed for 68-72. But the idea looks simple enough. Have any made there our rather then spend $200 for 1/4 inch pre cut wood.
Trunk panle kit
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Member tarantula did it to his 73/4. He has a YouTube channel and shows what he did

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Member tarantula did it to his 73/4. He has a YouTube channel and shows what he did

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Is that ch. 74 nova reborn. Yeah he did way too much work. I dont know if all that was necessary for what im trying to do.
 

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Is that ch. 74 nova reborn. Yeah he did way too much work. I dont know if all that was necessary for what im trying to do.
Yeah thats him. Was just saying for a example, he did it the way he wanted and it turned out nice.

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Yeah thats him. Was just saying for a example, he did it the way he wanted and it turned out nice.

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I was reading thru the old forums and it was mentioned that someone got plans from ebay. I was looking but couldn't find anything. Alien enclosures seems super simple but $200 for just wood is a bit much. If it came with at least carpet i might consider it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok this is what i got so far. Not sure where im going to put the amps but they need to be protected. Floor board is not sitting where i like it yet but getting there
20200513_150319.jpg
 

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Ok this is what i got so far. Not sure where im going to put the amps but they need to be protected. Floor board is not sitting where i like it yet but getting there View attachment 404597
This is just my opinion, but maybe think about firing the subs into the interior and not having them fill up the trunk with sound. I've seen too many systems with speakers firing back like yours in coupes and people then ask after it's installed why does my trunk rattle, why does my license plate rattle, and why does it sound better sometimes with the trunk open ?. Firing the subs into the trunk and then wanting to get the sound through the back deck and seat back material is like putting a home sub in a closet and then closing the door. Yep it will work but the volume will be reduced, chances are you will have unwanted rattles and vibrations and I don't know how you are but when I am driving down the road hearing a person bumping their stereo and then hear the trunk lid rattles to me it's like a high performance exhaust with then once it get's closer you then hear a bad exhaust leak in the pipes. For the most bass you want the subs to move the air in the interior and not the trunk unless you plan on sitting back there and listening to things. Again,just my opinion of things.


Oh and turn this video up. I would like to drive around with that noise--------NOT.


Also try NOT to mount the amplifiers on the enclosure as the vibrations of the cabinet can get transmitted to the parts in the amp and get them vibrating. I've seen capacitors inside of amplifiers break the legs off of them just like bending a coat hanger back and forth to where it too work hardens and then breaks apart.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
This is just my opinion, but maybe think about firing the subs into the interior and not having them fill up the trunk with sound. I've seen too many systems with speakers firing back like yours in coupes and people then ask after it's installed why does my trunk rattle, why does my license plate rattle, and why does it sound better sometimes with the trunk open ?. Firing the subs into the trunk and then wanting to get the sound through the back deck and seat back material is like putting a home sub in a closet and then closing the door. Yep it will work but the volume will be reduced, chances are you will have unwanted rattles and vibrations and I don't know how you are but when I am driving down the road hearing a person bumping their stereo and then hear the trunk lid rattles to me it's like a high performance exhaust with then once it get's closer you then hear a bad exhaust leak in the pipes. For the most bass you want the subs to move the air in the interior and not the trunk unless you plan on sitting back there and listening to things. Again,just my opinion of things.


Oh and turn this video up. I would like to drive around with that noise--------NOT.


Also try NOT to mount the amplifiers on the enclosure as the vibrations of the cabinet can get transmitted to the parts in the amp and get them vibrating. I've seen capacitors inside of amplifiers break the legs off of them just like bending a coat hanger back and forth to where it too work hardens and then breaks apart.

Jim
Thanks for the tip. But car audio is my first love. The subs will be fine in their placement and they are only 10s. The trunk lid has been filled with spray foam and then will be lined with sound deadening then maybe covered with carpet. The sub enclosure is sealed for a tight bass note instead of ported which is for spl. The same treatment with be given to the rest of the trunk. I hate rattle and will spend countless hours to eliminate it. The original plan was to install my digital designs equipment but that would be total overkill for this car.
 

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I got involved with car audio in the late 70's when 8 tracks were getting replaced with cassette and now these new radio's do not even have a CD slot and work off of app's. I've seen a lot through the years and I just don't want someone to go down a wrong path. I still get in arguments with people that refuse to fuse :)

I've only filled one trunk lid with low expanding foam and I remember fishing a flexible tube into the farthest spot and then slowly putting the foam in hopping enough was sprayed in there and then taping off the holes to keep it contained while it cured.

I'll have to look around but years ago I used an Audio Control analyzer to measure some sound levels at different frequencies with the volume fixed at a test level with the subs firing backwards into a trunk and then I turned the enclosure around with it firing forward with an extended top, side and bottom off of the enclosure to force all of the pressure into the cab and I was getting anywhere from 3dB to 12dB level increases. That sold me on firing subs into the listening area.

Yep, I used to hit a lot of the local car audio shows here in Saint Louis and went now and then to the finals out in Tempe and things have changed through the years.

404653


Trunk Floor and Passenger Side.jpg


Back in the 80's with passive crossover's:
IMG_0019.JPG

404654


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
This is just my opinion, but maybe think about firing the subs into the interior and not having them fill up the trunk with sound. I've seen too many systems with speakers firing back like yours in coupes and people then ask after it's installed why does my trunk rattle, why does my license plate rattle, and why does it sound better sometimes with the trunk open ?. Firing the subs into the trunk and then wanting to get the sound through the back deck and seat back material is like putting a home sub in a closet and then closing the door. Yep it will work but the volume will be reduced, chances are you will have unwanted rattles and vibrations and I don't know how you are but when I am driving down the road hearing a person bumping their stereo and then hear the trunk lid rattles to me it's like a high performance exhaust with then once it get's closer you then hear a bad exhaust leak in the pipes. For the most bass you want the subs to move the air in the interior and not the trunk unless you plan on sitting back there and listening to things. Again,just my opinion of things.


Oh and turn this video up. I would like to drive around with that noise--------NOT.


Also try NOT to mount the amplifiers on the enclosure as the vibrations of the cabinet can get transmitted to the parts in the amp and get them vibrating. I've seen capacitors inside of amplifiers break the legs off of them just like bending a coat hanger back and forth to where it too work hardens and then breaks apart.

Jim
Do you have subs? Would love to see more ideas. I was also thinking of do an infinite baffle setup as well since its a tight fit for an decent enclosure. I had to build my box with an slant back to leave room for the rear deck speakers.

Oh sorry i was late. Yeah. that is nice. Not arguing your points. Its definitely true. But just want to be able to see the subs is a bigger point for me. My biggest issue is i suck at wood work. But honestly i wasnt thinking about loudest or anything and ive been on the fence about my lil box. I want something more like the pictures you posted. I want the wall look.
 

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Do you have subs? Would love to see more ideas. I was also thinking of do an infinite baffle setup as well since its a tight fit for an decent enclosure. I had to build my box with an slant back to leave room for the rear deck speakers.

Oh sorry i was late. Yeah. that is nice. Not arguing your points. Its definitely true. But just want to be able to see the subs is a bigger point for me. My biggest issue is i suck at wood work. But honestly i wasn't thinking about loudest or anything and i've been on the fence about my lil box. I want something more like the pictures you posted. I want the wall look.
So many of the photo's I had of the car through the years were never returned by the ex in the divorce and eventually I need to do some picture taking of the car again.

Yes it does have subs in the package shelf area (a pair of 12" in a sealed enclosure) and fire upward to get a horn load off of the back glass. The enclosure is on drawer slides to where the back seat folds down and then the enclosure can be pulled into the interior to expose the battery mount directly above the rear axle and sunk partially into the trunk floor.

The car was wired years ago using a lot of Esoteric Audio cabling and then for the vehicle wiring such as headlights, parking lights, and whatever, these wires were from Aamp of Florida before they became Aamp of America.

The inner door structure was cut out and hand laid fiberglass enclosures fit between the outside of the glass and the inside skin of the door and attaches to the side collision beam. The bottom section of the enclosure then lips under the bottom edge of the glass when it is fully down and then comes back up to the speakers baffle. I made my own brackets to put in power windows.

In the front sides of the center console are enclosures for some 8" midbass driver's but I never got around to putting those in.

The dash is all custom made with parts from Dakota Digital, custom steering wheel controls using Alpine EQ buttons, a covered shifter radio area with a setup that is covered and acts like a roll top desk lid to cover things and works off of a power antenna setup (hey I was cheap and this was before actuators were cheap), a new style 16x9 monitor in the passenger side (was originally a 12" AC/DC tube TV), an invertor behind the bottom of the one rear seat pad to power a homeunit VCR (again it was before DVD's and players were really inexpensive),and a backup camera in the trunk lock cylinder hole. Oh, and I also took a power window mechanism and welded the large quarter sized gear to the hinge part of the car to where the trunk lid is opened and closed by the window moor wires to an old Clifford Security system.

Anyway it's getting late and I'll dig out some more photo's and post them up.

As far as sucking at wood working is here's a hint (kinda hard to explain but I might be able to add adrawing to clarify my words). Cut some of the boards a TAD oversize and then glue and screw it together and let the glue ooze out. Scrape the excess off while wet and then let it sit for the glue to fully dry. Now come back on the mating edges with a 7" 36 grit round wheel or a 36" grit belt sander and then sand things down and now the edges will look perfect if sanded right and square and whatever misalignment there might have been gets sanded away and lost. A buddy of mine shared that and I still do this method. Also too, if wrapping an enclosure with carpet, do all 4 sides and then pull the edges of the carpet onto the two ends then take a pice of 1/4" plywood and make an end cap and cover it then screw this end cap to the enclosure and it will look really nice and then only have to worry about one seam which can be put on the bottom of the enclosure.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So many of the photo's I had of the car through the years were never returned by the ex in the divorce and eventually I need to do some picture taking of the car again.

Yes it does have subs in the package shelf area (a pair of 12" in a sealed enclosure) and fire upward to get a horn load off of the back glass. The enclosure is on drawer slides to where the back seat folds down and then the enclosure can be pulled into the interior to expose the battery mount directly above the rear axle and sunk partially into the trunk floor.

The car was wired years ago using a lot of Esoteric Audio cabling and then for the vehicle wiring such as headlights, parking lights, and whatever, these wires were from Aamp of Florida before they became Aamp of America.

The inner door structure was cut out and hand laid fiberglass enclosures fit between the outside of the glass and the inside skin of the door and attaches to the side collision beam. The bottom section of the enclosure then lips under the bottom edge of the glass when it is fully down and then comes back up to the speakers baffle. I made my own brackets to put in power windows.

In the front sides of the center console are enclosures for some 8" midbass driver's but I never got around to putting those in.

The dash is all custom made with parts from Dakota Digital, custom steering wheel controls using Alpine EQ buttons, a covered shifter radio area with a setup that is covered and acts like a roll top desk lid to cover things and works off of a power antenna setup (hey I was cheap and this was before actuators were cheap), a new style 16x9 monitor in the passenger side (was originally a 12" AC/DC tube TV), an invertor behind the bottom of the one rear seat pad to power a homeunit VCR (again it was before DVD's and players were really inexpensive),and a backup camera in the trunk lock cylinder hole. Oh, and I also took a power window mechanism and welded the large quarter sized gear to the hinge part of the car to where the trunk lid is opened and closed by the window moor wires to an old Clifford Security system.

Anyway it's getting late and I'll dig out some more photo's and post them up.

As far as sucking at wood working is here's a hint (kinda hard to explain but I might be able to add adrawing to clarify my words). Cut some of the boards a TAD oversize and then glue and screw it together and let the glue ooze out. Scrape the excess off while wet and then let it sit for the glue to fully dry. Now come back on the mating edges with a 7" 36 grit round wheel or a 36" grit belt sander and then sand things down and now the edges will look perfect if sanded right and square and whatever misalignment there might have been gets sanded away and lost. A buddy of mine shared that and I still do this method. Also too, if wrapping an enclosure with carpet, do all 4 sides and then pull the edges of the carpet onto the two ends then take a pice of 1/4" plywood and make an end cap and cover it then screw this end cap to the enclosure and it will look really nice and then only have to worry about one seam which can be put on the bottom of the enclosure.

Jim
Man
Thanks about the wood glue trick. sometimes i forget how strong that stuff is how it can really save your butt with cuta like mine. Like i said i have been rethinking my box. It wasnt even really planned i just started cutting lol. I figured i could run sealed for ease. The subs are 2 skar audio vd 10s. And the amp is a rockford p1000-1bd. I wanted to run rockford sub since i have 3 amps but didnt want to spend the extra cash for the subs.
My doors are going to be fun. I picked up some junk ones for $160 shipped and then reparing the cracked plastic with a plastic welded and then glassed it. I do plan to glass the doors but nothing crazy. Just enough to put in maybe 2 speakers and to cover and f ups.

Sounds like you use to go bananas in that nova. Its crazy cuz you dont see anyone do novas with sound. The only cars that get love is chevelles and big body caprices.
 
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