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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a 72 a few months ago, and I'm trying to convert from street/strip drag setup to a car that turns.

The car has been mini tubbed with offset rear spring shackles. It has a mono leaf.

It also has a shock relocation bar welded in, and a coil over shocks. I think mine is a older version of this one:

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Competition-Engineering-C2051-Coil-Over-Shock/dp/B000CIUL04[/ame]



This seems to me it would be a pretty stiff setup. I was not able to stretch the car out when I purchased it since all the chrome and interior is off of it getting the car ready for paint.

My understanding from searching around that forum is that rear leaf springs, such as hotckis, are designed to be stiff to support the car in the turns.

So my question is, do you think running a mono leaf and a coil would work for turns? I have no idea how stiff that spring is in the back or what kind of shock is installed (looks old). The shock and spring could be replaced or I could lose the coil spring and just run a shock. :confused:

I'm looking for any advice or feedback...thoughts?

I'm getting ready to rebuild the front end for the turns, but that is another story.
 

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72 Frame off, bare metal resto-mod. 383, TH350, Eaton Posi, Complete new suspension, disk brakes
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They turn

These cars have a fairly tight turning radius as is, but a stiff ride is created by the shock, not the springs. The springs will determine ride height and long duration movement, but it's the shock that will put the bump to your backside. At the same time the shocks will dampen how much the car will react to that bump. You can test this by removing your shocks and bouncing the back of the car, it will keep going for a while.
My old rear springs were worn out causing the car to be a tail drager, so I replaced my rear springs with a triple leaf that fits into the single leaf bracket on the rear axle. I specified a stock height spring. That brought the height right where I want it.
It may be that the coilovers were installed to compensate for worn leaf springs.
If you are looking to do autocross or protouring type handling, then controlling the body roll is as important as keeping the tires hooked to the ground. If you don't go with a four link, then replace your stock springs, add a panhard bar to keep the rear axle centered, a sway bar to control the body roll and a set of shocks intended for protouring.
You'll have to spay as much attention to the front axle too; the whole thing is a system.
 

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You can't possibly be serious saying springs won't make a stiff ride!
Ever switch from a 150lb. spring to a 450lb. spring? Gee, must be the shocks that stiffened up the ride.:no:
 

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I too switched from mono leaf to a three leaf set up, i ditched the lower spring perch and threw comp. eng. traction bars cause they were new and i got them for 100 bucks. the ride felt way better but still felt like it was moving underneath me. I then added the comp. eng. frame connectors, and rear three was adj. drag shocks(not for street use altho its my everyday driver :turn:lol) I set them in the middle setting(40/60) the frame connectors made the biggest difference and i loved the way the rear shocks would squat and hold just slightly, made steering feel lighter and traction greater. I then added chris alston chassisworks 11/4 front sway bar and there 3/4 rear bar. I made runs(around town) after installing the front one first and handling was greatly improved. i felt justified spending 600 dollars on that bar for the first time. after installing the rear (its adjustable and in middle hole) handling felt tight but it felt to tight or like ... i think torque steer is the proper name? today I pulled the shocks and set them to there 30/70 setting meaning they squat the most for best hook up, but with all the new chassis stiffening stuff you could hardly tell, i then set the sway bar in the furthest forward hole(softest) and she felt much easier to steer through a corner and still no body movement hardly at all. I dont know if this helps but I just wanted to show that even if a part isnt meant to make a difference somewhere it most deffinately changes how everything works. also take the time to adjust them properly, even if that means that all the work you have done leading up to you getting a part has to come off to properly set adjustments then so be it. the worst is when you ride in your spoiled friends pimped out ride and all his high dollar components are binding cause no effort was taken to do it right. lol sorry, anyway, good luck.

I also know this isnt the most effective or best selection of parts but im trying, i would eventually like to ditch the traction bars for slide o links and leaf springs for coilovers but till then.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It may be that the coilovers were installed to compensate for worn leaf springs.
If you are looking to do autocross or protouring type handling, then controlling the body roll is as important as keeping the tires hooked to the ground. If you don't go with a four link, then replace your stock springs, add a panhard bar to keep the rear axle centered, a sway bar to control the body roll and a set of shocks intended for protouring.
You'll have to spay as much attention to the front axle too; the whole thing is a system.
Thanks Pete. It didn't occur to me that they may have done that to compensate for worn leafs.

I trailered the car to my uncles shop this weekend and was able to put it on the road a bit. The rear shocks are shot and the coils are doing the shocks job..so it seems that might have been the case.

I'm trying to lean towards getting a mostly complete system from one of the popular choices, hotchkis, gw, etc. that will address all four corners.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I too switched from mono leaf to a three leaf set up, i ditched the lower spring perch and threw comp. eng. traction bars cause they were new and i got them for 100 bucks. the ride felt way better but still felt like it was moving underneath me. I then added the comp. eng. frame connectors, and rear three was adj. drag shocks(not for street use altho its my everyday driver :turn:lol) I set them in the middle setting(40/60) the frame connectors made the biggest difference and i loved the way the rear shocks would squat and hold just slightly, made steering feel lighter and traction greater. I then added chris alston chassisworks 11/4 front sway bar and there 3/4 rear bar. I made runs(around town) after installing the front one first and handling was greatly improved. i felt justified spending 600 dollars on that bar for the first time. after installing the rear (its adjustable and in middle hole) handling felt tight but it felt to tight or like ... i think torque steer is the proper name? today I pulled the shocks and set them to there 30/70 setting meaning they squat the most for best hook up, but with all the new chassis stiffening stuff you could hardly tell, i then set the sway bar in the furthest forward hole(softest) and she felt much easier to steer through a corner and still no body movement hardly at all. I dont know if this helps but I just wanted to show that even if a part isnt meant to make a difference somewhere it most deffinately changes how everything works. also take the time to adjust them properly, even if that means that all the work you have done leading up to you getting a part has to come off to properly set adjustments then so be it. the worst is when you ride in your spoiled friends pimped out ride and all his high dollar components are binding cause no effort was taken to do it right. lol sorry, anyway, good luck.

I also know this isnt the most effective or best selection of parts but im trying, i would eventually like to ditch the traction bars for slide o links and leaf springs for coilovers but till then.....
Thanks for the good info. I had adjustable shocks in mind for the front, and now I'm thinking it would be a good setup for the rear.

I'm leaning now to new rear multi leafs (that will also lower) and rear adjustable shocks. The car already has welded in subframe connectors. Maybe adding some solid type body bushings would be a worthy upgrade that won't kill the budget.
 
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