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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking into doing some mods on the front end of the 72. Right now it's a rebuilt stock front end with drag shocks, no sway bar and Moroso trick front springs. It also have manual drum brakes. I'm looking into power disc brakes and some better suspension geometry, also 2" drop spindles.

I'm not looking to spend as much as possible so I'd like to know what works best for the money. I was looking at CPP and they seem to have the best pricing. What have you guys used with success???

I'm not looking for a "G machine" but I do want it to handle better. I was driving it yesterday at a....ahem, "somewhat" rapid rate of speed and it was a little too erratic for my taste.

Thanks in advance!
 

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youve heard others say it...
discs are probably one of the best investments you can make.
ive bought from cpp.
you dont really need tubular control arms for the street.
i have not installed the discs yet.
as ive said before- i bought all my cpp stuff off ebay- free shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
youve heard others say it...
discs are probably one of the best investments you can make.
ive bought from cpp.
you dont really need tubular control arms for the street.
i have not installed the discs yet.
as ive said before- i bought all my cpp stuff off ebay- free shipping.
I was wondering about the tubular arms and whether they were needed or not. I may just replace mine with oem new ones. I've been thinking about the power disc upgrade since day one...I'm going to leave the rears drum. Will adding the power booster cause me to make any changes to my factory drums? I'll look for cpp on ebay.
 

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I plan on going from stock front discs to the AFX tall spindle and c5 corvette brakes. Should make a pretty radical difference. Only draw back is I have to get 17 inch rims but Im sick of the tiny 14s on my Nova. Im plan on using my stock control arms and some basic spring and shock upgrade. Everything I have read shows that the 2 inch drop spindles wil just be adding more problems.

If all you want is front disc brakes you should be able to find something cheap at a local junkyard. I spent a total of $300 upgrading to disc brakes when I did mine with just yard parts and the car was driven hard with no problems.

As soon as I find out tommorrow that I can get the AFX spindles with no problems I will have a spair set of stock disc spindles up for grabs. I have stock rotors and calipers that are in ok shape to but they are dirty from all the road grime.
 

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My suspension is set up like this. I run Hotchkiss front 2" drop springs, Hotchkiss 1.5" drop multi leaf springs, Stock rubber bushings (new of course), with an Addco 1 1/4 front sway bar (I'd run either an 1" or maybe an 1 1/8 for a small block), with Edelbrock IAS front shocks, KYB's in the rear, with rubber body bushings, bolt in frame connectors, and a quick ratio steering box. It's a very nice driving car. Now the factory alignment specs don't work very well. I use a little more camber and more caster than stock. Makes a world of difference. It's nice and stable at high speeds.If I have the extra money I'm going to buy a set of CPP's tubular arms, but they aren't required right now.

I also run the stock style manual disc/drum set up. It works ok, but I'm changing the front to a set of drilled/slotted rotors (Summit brand), EBC pads, adn using my 79 T/A rear mounts and calipers and getting drilled/slotted rotors and EBC pads for the rear as well. Then Use a master cylinder for a 1968 Corvette and an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear line and it should stop with more confidence. I don't have the vacuum to run power brakes.

Hope this helps.
 

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Do the Gulstrand mod to the upper mounting points of the upper control arm to improve camber curve and add positive caster. Best of all its FREE. This with factory discs, a sway bar, and decent KYB, Koni, or bilstein shocks and it will be a totally different car.
 

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Forgot to add, get the front lower with lowering coils from Hotchkis etc over using drop spindles. All they do is cause tie rod to tire clearance problems and possiblly increase bump steer.
 

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Do the Gulstrand mod to the upper mounting points of the upper control arm to improve camber curve and add positive caster. Best of all its FREE. This with factory discs, a sway bar, and decent KYB, Koni, or bilstein shocks and it will be a totally different car.
What's the mod? do you have a link for it?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm looking to do a bolt on mod, not lots of cut this and weld that fabrication type stuff. I'd rather spend more money if needed to just unbolt what I have and bolt on new parts.
 

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The Guldstrand mod dosen't always make the car better. I've heard horro stories at a Camaro website about very ill handling car after the mod was done. And done correctly using the Guldstrand template. It seems the mod is great on some cars, but horrible on others. I think it has to work as a system, with the correct springs, shocks, tire and wheel size etc. Plus it permanent once it's done. This is one better left to the road racing guys and serious autocrossers. A tall spindle will do the same thing as this mod also, but beware, it dosen't always help.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The Guldstrand mod dosen't always make the car better. I've heard horro stories at a Camaro website about very ill handling car after the mod was done. And done correctly using the Guldstrand template. It seems the mod is great on some cars, but horrible on others. I think it has to work as a system, with the correct springs, shocks, tire and wheel size etc. Plus it permanent once it's done. This is one better left to the road racing guys and serious autocrossers. A tall spindle will do the same thing as this mod also, but beware, it dosen't always help.
That's NOT what I'm looking for...my luck is that it would make my car a freakin' nightmare...
 

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drag shocks, no sway bar and Moroso trick front springs
I'm not looking for a "G machine" but I do want it to handle better
You have the car setup for drag racing, but you want it to corner better?
Remove everything from the first quote, and replace with parts meant to go around corners instead of a straight line. Some decent springs, shocks and a sway bar will work wonders. But, what are you going to do when the car doesn't work at the drags?
 

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What are you suspension goals? It sounds like you are setup for drag racing now. Power disks will make a difference in stopping. We can save the wheels and tires for a separate discussion.

If you are keeping it on the street or auto crossing, limiting suspension travel is the first rule of thumb. This will limit the camber change. If you are road racing (not auto crossing) then the Gulstrand mod is recommended. Here is the approach I'd recommend the following in order of stages. You don't have to spend a ton of money to get decent handling.

1. Front sway bar 1 inch to 1-1/8 inch for small block and 1.125 to 1.25 inch for a big block. Good shocks are essential as well Konis, Bilsteins, Edelbrocks or similar. Rear sway bar is not needed at this stage.

2. A good set of 1 - 2 inch drop springs in the 450 - 500 lb range would be good for most street driving. Go to 600 lbs for auto crossing. 175 lbs leaf springs for street and 225 lbs for auto crossing. Good leaf springs will keep 500 HP in check without the use of traction bars. The Hotchkis springs are 600 and 225 lbs. I would avoid drop spindles unless you are trying to slam the car.

3. Solid body mounts. These limit body movement and stiffen the car. If your subframe is off the car, seam weld it to strengthen it too.

4. Bushing upgrade. Del-a-lum or urethane will work. I'm not a fan of urethane bushings. I'm actually running rubber LCA bushings in my auto cross setup.

5. Quality upper control arms. Stick with what works best given none of them are cheap. The good ones not only add caster, but slow the rate of camber change. Global West, Speed Tech and Detroit Speed are track proven. Don't waist your money on lower arms. They are for looks only and do little to nothing to improve handling. If you want ubber stiff LCAs, box weld what you have.

6. If you've gone through the first five steps and have excessive understeer, a small rear sway bar may be needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You have the car setup for drag racing, but you want it to corner better?
Remove everything from the first quote, and replace with parts meant to go around corners instead of a straight line. Some decent springs, shocks and a sway bar will work wonders. But, what are you going to do when the car doesn't work at the drags?
So what do I need to keep it hooking at the track and also make it handle better? Or is that asking for too much?

I'm looking at a drag car right now and if that happens I may be willing to sacrifice hook for handling....but right now I'm not. I can always unhook the front swar bar when I'm going to the track. I may just hook it back up and see if that helps enough.

Either way I want it to stop better.

Will discs be okay with my 15" Cragars?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What are you suspension goals? It sounds like you are setup for drag racing now. Power disks will make a difference in stopping. We can save the wheels and tires for a separate discussion.

If you are keeping it on the street or auto crossing, limiting suspension travel is the first rule of thumb. This will limit the camber change. If you are road racing (not auto crossing) then the Gulstrand mod is recommended. Here is the approach I'd recommend the following in order of stages. You don't have to spend a ton of money to get decent handling.

1. Front sway bar 1 inch to 1-1/8 inch for small block and 1.125 to 1.25 inch for a big block. Good shocks are essential as well Konis, Bilsteins, Edelbrocks or similar. Rear sway bar is not needed at this stage.

2. A good set of 1 - 2 inch drop springs in the 450 - 500 lb range would be good for most street driving. Go to 600 lbs for auto crossing. 175 lbs leaf springs for street and 225 lbs for auto crossing. Good leaf springs will keep 500 HP in check without the use of traction bars. The Hotchkis springs are 600 and 225 lbs. I would avoid drop spindles unless you are trying to slam the car.

3. Solid body mounts. These limit body movement and stiffen the car. If your subframe is off the car, seam weld it to strengthen it too.

4. Bushing upgrade. Del-a-lum or urethane will work. I'm not a fan of urethane bushings. I'm actually running rubber LCA bushings in my auto cross setup.

5. Quality upper control arms. Stick with what works best given none of them are cheap. The good ones not only add caster, but slow the rate of camber change. Global West, Speed Tech and Detroit Speed are track proven. Don't waist your money on lower arms. They are for looks only and do little to nothing to improve handling. If you want ubber stiff LCAs, box weld what you have.

6. If you've gone through the first five steps and have excessive understeer, a small rear sway bar may be needed.
it's a street/strip car. I want it to hook but I also want it to handle better on the street. The faster it goes at the track the worse it drives on the street...
 

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Im ordering some AFX tall spindles today. Ill let you know the availabilty of them and how much they cost me. Ive havent heard anything bad about them. I like that they require no modification other than brakes and rims and they arent permanent.

If all you want is for it to stop better than I dont see whats the point in buying an expensive kit. I put on plenty of miles with a junkyard disc conversion for $300 which included everything from from booster to rotors which were perfect from the yard. The only extra stuff I paid for was a caliper rebuild kit and some new brake pads. Everything worked fine on 14 inch rims too. Brake rebuild kits are dirt cheap at the auto parts store and they are fairly easy to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So junk yard parts huh? Sounds interesting, I just don't want to make 20 trips to the bone yard to "save" a couple hundred bucks. What will bolt right on? I'll get a new booster/mc. Will my brake lines work?

I do want it to handle better too...
 

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When I went I just told the guy at the counter what I needed and he went into his little computer and looked everything up. I never needed to go back. I can tell you for sure nothing came from a Nova either but I never had any problems. I used my stock brake lines no problems and I still have them. The booster I bought still works fine. He was nice enough not to give me worn out parts either since I was shocked that the rotors looked unused. The Nova braked perfectly smooth and straight. I know what its like driving a Nova with drum brakes and it wasnt fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah, when they're adjusted right they're okay. But I have to adjust and clean the
all the time or they pull one way or the other....

Plus power brakes would be sweeet!
 
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