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Discussion Starter #1
So today I dropped my block off a the machine shop :devil::devil:. I need some help on deciding- leaving it a 355 or making it a 383. I'll be using the car as a daily driver but I also want to have that HP!!! The machinist said to leave it a 355 and it will last, and make it a 383 and it will last 6,000 miles.... Also said that 2 Bolt mains are better than 4 Bolt Mains. I thought it was the 4 bolt main that was better.....?
 

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i think you could keep all your components, keeping it a 355 and have a pretty nice engine and save a ton of money...

people always want "this much" when they don't know what "that much" could have been... the engine itself is but one part in a system of parts that have to work together to compliment each other. save a few bucks by staying with the 350. listen to the machinist... then take the extra "this much" money and see about some trans improvements. a shift kit, a good cooler. if you were really going to spend the cash for "this much" then maybe you'll have some extra extra bucks for a set or gears? Now that engine that's only "that much" is "that much" better by having the complementary components needed for any performance application...

work smarter, not harder... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i think you could keep all your components, keeping it a 355 and have a pretty nice engine and save a ton of money...

people always want "this much" when they don't know what "that much" could have been... the engine itself is but one part in a system of parts that have to work together to compliment each other. save a few bucks by staying with the 350. listen to the machinist... then take the extra "this much" money and see about some trans improvements. a shift kit, a good cooler. if you were really going to spend the cash for "this much" then maybe you'll have some extra extra bucks for a set or gears? Now that engine that's only "that much" is "that much" better by having the complementary components needed for any performance application...

work smarter, not harder... ;)
Alright well it is more realistic to keep it a 350. I'll be needing the following things New Heads, A entire rebuild kit for a 355 and new intake and carb, distributor and wires new oil pump with pick up, new oil pan, and gaskets. What do you recommend? What should I do about the cam?
 

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I dont get the 383 will only last 6k miles remark made by your machinist. Seems odd. No reason why it wont last as long as any other engine. Wierd:confused:

As for the 2 bolt vs 4 bolt comparison, a 4 bolt 350 block is stronger than a 2 bolt 350 block. The opposite is said to be true on a 400 block. But it seems to be more of a myth IMO
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I dont get the 383 will only last 6k miles remark made by your machinist. Seems odd. No reason why it wont last as long as any other engine. Wierd:confused:

As for the 2 bolt vs 4 bolt comparison, a 4 bolt 350 block is stronger than a 2 bolt 350 block. The opposite is said to be true on a 400 block. But it seems to be more of a myth IMO
Said I'll be throwing cheap Chinese made things in it and it wont last? Seems like logic to me- 4 bolts is better than 2.
 

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Said I'll be throwing cheap Chinese made things in it and it wont last? Seems like logic to me- 4 bolts is better than 2.
I though you started with a block only so either way you need to buy a complete rotating assy...

The weakness is said to be from the drilling of the outer bolts can weaken the main webbing on a 400 block.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I though you started with a block only so either way you need to buy a complete rotating assy...

The weakness is said to be from the drilling of the outer bolts can weaken the main webbing on a 400 block.
I guess it depends who you ask. I'm looking on summit all I see it internal balanced rotation assy? What type of H balancer and flex plate is used?
 

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Stay with an a sfi approved balancer, less likely to come apart on you later. Stock flex plate should work fine.
 

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I REALLY HOPE MY 383 LASTS LONGER THAN 6K:rolleyes: for a daily driver, a 355 is fine, and with the right set up, you can make plenty of power, The Flyer had some really good points there,everything has to work together, if you beef up the engine, you need to consider, if the trans is able to take the power of your engine, and then consider if the rear end will survive, and suspension and so on.

your question on the cam? again it all depends on what your trying to do, and how much you want your engine to preform, COMP CAMS xtreme energy FT or rollers are pretty decent, they give you better throttle response and produce good vacuum. but again there is plenty more out there, explore.
 

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Either set up will be fine. Buy good parts and it will be fine. I did the 350 over in my nova using an Eagle crank, Scat I-beam rods, SRP pistons, Lunati hydraulic roller, and AFR 195 heads. I think the car is plenty fast for a street car. BUT the car also can idle in traffic at 180, start up every time no matter how long it sits or how hot it gets. It works fine with power brakes as well. These are the traits that I would be more concerned with for your build. I'm going to sound like the old grump here, but many people get caught up in high HP numbers and cubic inches. 400 hp in a daily driver is a ton of power. With the right setup, you have a 12 second car. I made sure I kept the "i wanna fast car with a rough idle" idea under control. Be realistic in what you need the car to do. And if I did want to go racing, I put the Chevelle in the trailer and go.:rolleyes:
 

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So today I dropped my block off a the machine shop :devil::devil:. I need some help on deciding- leaving it a 355 or making it a 383. I'll be using the car as a daily driver but I also want to have that HP!!! The machinist said to leave it a 355 and it will last, and make it a 383 and it will last 6,000 miles.... Also said that 2 Bolt mains are better than 4 Bolt Mains. I thought it was the 4 bolt main that was better.....?

It sounds like you need to find a real machinest, I have built circle track engines for 35 plus years now and the barrel classes that are appox. 370 horse 5800 RPM 2 bolt caps don't work I have seen to many guys try that and it does not work.

GM has done enough research on what works.

I know over the years I have built alot of 383's and bigger and they are still running and I am sure they have more then 6000 miles on them. If your machinest is having issues with engines living they sould like small jobber shop!!

Sounds like you need to be dealing with a real machine shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As of right now I don't have the cash to build a 383. I'm really wanting to build a engine that has HP but starts up everytime no matter what, idles in traffic, and can be used as a daily driver. Are vortec heads good on a 355? As far as the cam goes I'm looking for something that has a nice mild cam nothing too small or too big. Really the car will be driven everyday but I also want it to have some HP under the hood red lights or just feel like stepping on it! What do you guys think?
 

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As of right now I don't have the cash to build a 383. I'm really wanting to build a engine that has HP but starts up everytime no matter what, idles in traffic, and can be used as a daily driver. Are vortec heads good on a 355? As far as the cam goes I'm looking for something that has a nice mild cam nothing too small or too big. Really the car will be driven everyday but I also want it to have some HP under the hood red lights or just feel like stepping on it! What do you guys think?
I guesstimate my 383 to be north of 500 hp. It starts right up as good as a car should and them some. Plenty dependable, temperature runs 170 and even idling I don't think it has gone past 180. Only problem is that it likes the gas stations.

Vortecs would be a great addition to a nice little engine that you are wanting.
 

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So today I dropped my block off a the machine shop :devil::devil:. I need some help on deciding- leaving it a 355 or making it a 383. I'll be using the car as a daily driver but I also want to have that HP!!! The machinist said to leave it a 355 and it will last, and make it a 383 and it will last 6,000 miles.... Also said that 2 Bolt mains are better than 4 Bolt Mains. I thought it was the 4 bolt main that was better.....?[/QUOTE]

If your machine shop told you that, i would pick up my stuff and leave. Also, you want the TQ and HP :D TQ is what you feel and wins races!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So today I dropped my block off a the machine shop :devil::devil:. I need some help on deciding- leaving it a 355 or making it a 383. I'll be using the car as a daily driver but I also want to have that HP!!! The machinist said to leave it a 355 and it will last, and make it a 383 and it will last 6,000 miles.... Also said that 2 Bolt mains are better than 4 Bolt Mains. I thought it was the 4 bolt main that was better.....?[/QUOTE]

If your machine shop told you that, i would pick up my stuff and leave. Also, you want the TQ and HP :D TQ is what you feel and wins races!
Kinda thinking the same thing. What's a good 355 set up that has HP & TQ?? Don't really have the $$$$ for the 383.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Alright So I'll be picking up the block tomorrow and taking it to another machinist :yes::yes::yes::yes: The other shop will be able to look at it and give me genuine help and advise. $130 To "REAL" Hot Tank it, Mag it and check the cylinders.
 

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Alright So I'll be picking up the block tomorrow and taking it to another machinist :yes::yes::yes::yes: The other shop will be able to look at it and give me genuine help and advise. $130 To "REAL" Hot Tank it, Mag it and check the cylinders.
If all you have is the block and have to purchase everything else then it won't cost any more money to build a 383 then a 355. Virtually all the parts cost the same crank, rods, pistons...
 

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The machinist said to leave it a 355 and it will last, and make it a 383 and it will last 6,000 miles.... Also said that 2 Bolt mains are better than 4 Bolt Mains. I thought it was the 4 bolt main that was better.....?
WHAT ?????????

Run, don't walk away
 
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