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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

We have a 66 Chevy II with a 230 straight six. It has not been running well for a while. We recently replaced the plugs, wire, distributor cap and coil. We did not replace the points. We also had the carburetor rebuilt and replaced gas line and the gas filter when we reinstalled it. When we take it out for a test drive, so we can adjust the carburetor, after about 10 minutes or so, the engine will sputter and stall out. We can't get it restarted until we let it sit for a while and it cools down. Any suggestions on what the could be causing this would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Tons of suggestions, and more than I can offer. The needle valve in the carb, even rebuilt, could not be closing well, or the float level is too high. Unless the rebuilt carb was tested, there may be some warpage in the bowl that might cause leaking or flooding. Sometimes, the base of the carb gets hot from the manifold, and the fuel inside can boil over or flood the carb. Also, when changing fuel filter, carb or any of those parts, you might have a new system that doesn't deal well with the pressure the fuel pump is putting out. Too much pressure and you could be bypassing the needle valve, too little and the carb might be starving. Do you see or smell excess gas at the time the car stalls?
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Something quick to try.... remove the filler cap from the gas tank and drive the car.
If the car no longer sputters and dies after 10 - 15 minutes of driving, you gas tank is not venting properly (engine dies due to vacuum forming in the gas tank as you drive).
I'm not sure how the gas tank on a 66 Nova vents. On my 74 Nova, I have a vented gas cap.

Be sure to also check that the carb's choke is working properly (choke butterfly should be fully open when the engine is warm).

P.S. As part of your recent tune-up, I would have also replaced the points and set the dwell angle/point gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for both of your suggestion, @AllyMcReal and @RifRaf. I am by all means, no mechanic, and learning this along side my 16 year old son, who chose this as his first car. he is taking Auto Tech at BOCES and learning some, but unfortunately due to Covid, does not have the opportunity right now to discuss this with his teachers. We had the carb rebuilt because the car was not running very well and we thought it would help. It was done by a carb specialty shop in Lyndhurst NJ and included replacement of the upper half, since the original was not in the greatest shape. When we changed the carb, we incorporated compression fittings at the gas line connections, which was previously rubber tubbing and clamps. We also replaced all the vacuum lines connected to the system, so I would not doubt that the pressure has been changed. There is no smell of excess gas when it stalls, but when we start it and press the gas, it seems like it is sputtering out and the catches itself to run. Could it be possible we need to replace the fuel pump? The gas filer is clear and you can see the fuel flowing through it. We tried the gas cap idea in the driveway, which may have seemed to help, but that was after we tried a few other things and it was already hot, so when we went to drive it, it was stalling. The choke is fully open when the car is running and warm. However, when we remove the air filter after it cools down, it is still open - one pump of the gas pedal and it will close and then move freely. I think this is somewhat normal. understood regarding replacing the points. Since we are novices, we figured on taking baby steps and were considering a conversion to electronic ignition. Any further advise would be greatly appreciated.

One other question related to the gas. When we purchased the car, the gas line to the carb went over the middle of the valve cover, rather than around it like it should. Would there be any reason for this other than not having enough gas line to do it correctly? we ran it around the valve cover like it is supposed to be.
 

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The gas tank vents off into the rear frame rail. How old is the fuel pump? check to make sure you still have spark at the plugs when it is Hot. I have seen fuel pumps have a issue when hot same goes for the condenser.
 

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just throwing this out-there ………… check & see (tighten) your "intake manifold bolts - to the head" .

Note : "conversion to electronic ignition" ……………. and, this is just my "2cents"
I installed a "Pertronix Ignitor # 1162A (1963-74 6 cylinder) . . . . . . back in 1996 and have ran it since.
Maybe I just got a good unit - - - I have never "touched-it-since install" . And, as you can see - - - -
I can - not - even see my 'distributor' . . . . so, for me . . . . it works great .



just more info

Plus . . . . try the "remove the gas cap" (as suggested) , and leave it off , go drive for 20 -30 miles .

later , jim
 

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I'd just replace the fuel pump. I just did that on my convertible due to a hot run problem, but not the same as yours. Mine was very hard starting, and I think that the pump wasn't holding nor putting out enough pressure. Replaced it and no more problems.

Do note that running the stock steel line, you should be careful that it does not come in contact with the head, thermostat, valve cover or other things that get very hot. That could cause hot run problems as well.
 

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When I 1st got my 69 . . . . I had replaced "stuff" - because the car sat for a few years (unkown , how long).
At that time , I installed a new fuel-pump . . . . . . that pump only lasted for about = 12 years = oh well .
Just buy a new fuel pump . . . (mine was about $ 15 dollars, from my local NAPA =
"NAPA brand part # M4503" . . . . cheap insurance . . . . 'do - it ' .
What kind of "carb" do you have on your 230 motor . Then you also have an extra 'clear fuel filter' mounted.
If you have the 'Rochester Mono-Jet carb' . . . . . . There should / could be another fuel filter installed
- - - - inside your carb . Look at the area where your "fuel Line Connects too" your carb "bowl" .
Stock - carbs , had a (kinda) brass looking fuel filter located "behind that large hex-fitting" .
Since your carb was re-built . . . . I don't know if they removed that filter - - or - - not .
Here goes : My old Ford work truck . . . . would run & quit . . . I changed everything , threw away a good
fuel pump (chasing problems) , removed the gas cap (chasing problems) , Installed a New MotorCraft 2bbl
carb -- New , not rebuilt . . . (it ran good for a while (chasing problems) , I had a small clear fuel filter . . . too watch my fuel
going into my carb . This problem was over about a year . . . . it would run : maybe a day - afew days -
afew weeks - then, start again .
Basically . . . when I installed that New 2bbl carb - - - - those Ford carbs come with a fuel filter that "screws
into the carb body" (it's a metal filter) . That 'metal fuel filter was plugged' . . . . but wasn't that old . . . .
and I would always check my "clear fuel filter" and, replaced it several times.
Of course I was in Phoenix - - at this moment , and it quit - - After I found the metal filter plugged - -
I installed a brass barbed fitting (removing that metal fuel filter) . . . . and , found my 'problem' …………...
only took me about 8-9 months, to find this.
Just because you see gas in u'r 'clear filter' (if it runs fine - ok) . . . if it's not running good , and .
your clear fuel filter looks good - - - - - - - - - - - don't just assume .
The end .
later , jim

# 1 - - see that large "hex-nut" at the fuel - line connection . Inside 'should be a
"Rochester fuel filter" .



# 2 - - remove that hex-bolt - don't lose that washer - check for a fuel filter -
…… . . clean that filter - - re-install , that filter . When you re-install that
large fitting . . . and tighten that "hex - fitting" . . . be-aware . . . don't tighten that

fitting TOO Tight you could "crack that housing" = and that would Ruin u'r carb !



ps . . . . . (Frank - that's your carb ) .
 

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Hi All,

We have a 66 Chevy II with a 230 straight six. It has not been running well for a while. We recently replaced the plugs, wire, distributor cap and coil. We did not replace the points. We also had the carburetor rebuilt and replaced gas line and the gas filter when we reinstalled it. When we take it out for a test drive, so we can adjust the carburetor, after about 10 minutes or so, the engine will sputter and stall out. We can't get it restarted until we let it sit for a while and it cools down. Any suggestions on what the could be causing this would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like vapor lock, wrap the exhaust or you just need better cooling. A six should never have a problem, do you know what temperature it's running?
 

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Stalls out is kind of vague. It quits like you turned off the key, or merely starts to run poorly? If it completely quits, that is probably an ignition issue, the first thing I would try is a new set of points and condenser. If it sputters and won’t accelerate, that is probably a fuel issue. When it stops next time, dribble a small amount of gas straight down the carb. Then see if it will start. If it does then you have a fuel delivery issue. Of course, you need a fire extinguisher handy, in case you manage to catch the motor on fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds like vapor lock, wrap the exhaust or you just need better cooling. A six should never have a problem, do you know what temperature it's running?
Thanks. Please explain “wrap the exhaust”. It had been running ok for several months before. Maybe because the temperature got warmer. I have no idea what temperature it is running at and no idea how to check it. The car has the stock cooling system.
 

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"Check your engine Water Temp" . . . . . . easy - - go buy an "infrared temperature gun" . . .
they have those at Harbor Freight . Or, just - bite - the - built , and install a Manual read water temp
gauge under u'r dash (ps = just buy a good gauge) .



jim
 
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