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More Headers

Don't forget Langdons cast iron headers. They are nice looking and a step up from the stock unit.

Also I thought Hedman or Hooker was still making a unit.

We might also ask member Twisted6 where he gets his racing headers.

From time to time they pop up on ebay, but watch out they are mostly Truck units and way too long for our First genners.

James
 

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I build my own headers So I know for a Fact that they are of equal lenght. The ONLY ones that make headers for the 62-67 chevyII bodys is clifford. or at least he was the only one. But TO my understanding is that He now ONLY makes the shortie Headers for the chevyII bodys no more long tube.I could be wrong???
 

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The only one that ever made a header for the 62-67 ChevyII/Novas
was clifford. And to my understanding is that They no longger make them.You would have to buy their shorty headers. Or get Tom Langdons cast. and for the Cost and Long term Life of them I'd go with
Tom Langdons cast exhaust/Headers.
As for my Race headers I make them myself.

Or you can make your own they are not really all that hard to build if you know how to weld.
 

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Langdon's Headers

Here's Langdon's Cast Iron Headers on mine - I like em. Clifford just makes the shorty steal headers because they say the shorties and x-pipe is just a good as long tube headers.
I chose cast iron headers for durability and looks but the Clifford headers probably produce a little more torque.

 

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Mpchitty,

That is an awesome looking engine bay. What year Nova do you have? I have three questions for you about your setup.

1. How difficult is it to get the exhaust hooked up to the cast headers? Is there any interference or tricky spots for an exhaust shop to deal with?

2. What size brake power booster do you have?

3. Your AC system looks great to me (I live in the desert, 120 degrees plus in summer) where did you get that setup? It is really clean.
 

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straight 6 langdon's header

mpchitty's picture appreciated. do you have more pictures of exhaust routing? i intend to retain column shifted three speed and have to route exhaust through and around z bar and shift linkage.
 

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Depending on how cold it gets where you live I would think twice about headers on a daily driver 6 cyl car. The carb and intake have real problems with freezing without the exhaust manifold keeping them warm.
 

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The Clifford intake has a provison to plumb the hot water from the cooling system through the intake to warm it up. Does that help with the freezing problem? Does the Offenhauser intake have this hot water plumbing feature?
 

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Straight 6 follow-up

My Nova is a 63 Convertible (actually for sale if the price is met)http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84645.

Answers:
1.a. The exhaust was fairly easy to hook up. Tom Langdon puts a little more iron on the ears of the manifolds than necessary so you have to grind some off to get it to mate up with the intake - not much though and I did it with a standard hand grinder.
b. My muffler guy had to do some tube bending but nothing crazy to get it to bolt up. Your clutch rod may some some minor interference issues but that's about it (minor indentation for when the clutch is engaged). When I first put these on I had a 3 on the tree and now I have a 4 speed - both applications work with these headers. Clifford suggests welding on an x-pipe and it may have some interference issues but I didn't use it so I don't know.

2. I think it is a 9" but it sticks the master cylinder out too far for anything other than a single carb set-up with a fairly small breather. It's a mp brakes booster set-up for a Nova that I installed about 10 years ago and works great but there are probably smaller ones on the market now that work just as well.

3. The a/c set-up took some work. I ordered a "custom fit" Vintage air set-up from a company that only deals with Chevy 2's thinking it would fit right as they are the Nova experts. As with most things on Novas, the a/c set-up is different than all other vehicles. Apparently, as I discovered through the rebuild process, the 194-250 block in a Nova has some different bolt locations and even has a different location for the dipstick than the same engine in every other vehicle. 2 big issues: (1) the compressor bracket required some re-fitting on the bottom to bolt up and (2) the pulleys had to be re-worked so they didn't hit the back of the fan. Not necessarily a big deal but when you order from alleged experts that know exactly what you need then have to do some custom fabrication it can be a little annoying. The problem I had with the pulleys is that they hit the back of the fan since the fans on EVERY OTHER vehicle stick out farther. Not shown in this picture, but the fix was too take out the original puller fan and bolt in an electric pusher fan. I wasn't happy with that set-up so I played around with the pulleys and ground about 3/4 inch off the idler puller and moved the belt to the back grooves on the compressor and crank pulley. Once I got the idler pulley how I wanted it, I called the company in Tenxas that make them and ordered a new one that was actually square since my process of hand grinding wasn't exactly scientific. I was able to bolt in the original fan and clear the pulleys and now I have the benefit of both fans which really helps push out the cold air in idled traffic. If I was to do it again, I would probably go with a Classic Auto Air kit as it seems to be the only system specifically designed for 63-65 Novas http://www.classicair.com/Nova6365.asp for 3 reasons: (1) they use a 3 knob control system with temp on one knob so you can take advantage of the 3 knob locations on your dash. The Vintage Air GEN II unit that I have has 4 knobs so I have to put the heat knob in the glove box. (2) They have a bulkhead plate to run the lines right through the heater hole in the firewall. With the Vintage air system we had to make our own plate then I ran the lines throug the inner fender (looks good but more work). You may still have the pully issues with the 6 cylinder even though they advertise having a straight 6 kit. From my research I could only find that only 1 company made the brackets for most of the aftermarket a/c companies and they designed them for a straight 6 in every other car but a Nova. (3) They have a fresh air option which I don't have in my GEN II unit.

Yes, the intake is water heated (not hooked up in this picture but you can see the tubes sticking out. I think it works great - better than the original, spring heat activated manifold. Plus the added benefit is that you can close it off in the summer if its too hot outside and you don't need heat at all. The offenhauser intake doesn't have a provision for this by design but Tom Langdon and probably some others make a water heated plate that can be added on.
It may sound like I'm griping but this is actually why I like straight 6's - they're a little different.
 

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I have also made water boxes that are weld on to the Older clifford intakes for water heat.Single OR the dual 4b intakes.
 

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The offenhauser intake doesn't have a provision for this by design but Tom Langdon and probably some others make a water heated plate that can be added on.

My Offenhauser 4bbl intake had provision to use stock exhaust manifold, or heat plate ?
 

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I have the Clifford long tube headers on my 250. They're great but I only have 2 or 3 inches of ground clearance under the cylinder 1,2,3 header collector. Of course I didn't find that out until I installed them. They've scraped many times, and I've broken a few manifold gaskets, but they've lasted me 20 years.
The Langdon headers look like a good way to go, and those white aluminized ones mpchitty has look great. I have that coating on my old Cliffords, possibly why they've lasted 20 years. They don't look like that anymore, but I've managed to not grab them with greasy hands all these years so they still look pretty good.
I don't have an X or H pipe, but I think I would consider going with a Y pipe and a large (2 1/2) single instead of duals for my next system. Having one pipe cross over under the car has been less than ideal. I would like to try the "Warlock" muffler which can be uncorked at the muffler for the track.
I run the Clifford exhaust heat plate which works really well. Depending on how much performance you are really looking for the large 292 manifold sgtsteve runs is very inexpensive but much better than stock. It solves the heat riser problem too but you have to use the stock or Offenhauser intake, it won't work with the Clifford. It has a 2 1/2 inch outlet and doesn't have the restrictive heat riser valve. I'm considering switching to the Offy and getting one instead of buying new headers.
 

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Exhaust routing

mpchitty's picture appreciated. do you have more pictures of exhaust routing? i intend to retain column shifted three speed and have to route exhaust through and around z bar and shift linkage.
Sorry for the delay, but here's some pics of my exhaust routing - nothing fancy.

 

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I have a '62 with an inline 6 and manual trans. Trying to find headers that will work with my application. The langdons cast iron's say they won't work without modification to the z-bar. Does anyone know if the 6=8 shorty headers will work with my application without modifying the z-bar?

Thanks
 

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I have a '62 with an inline 6 and manual trans. Trying to find headers that will work with my application. The langdons cast iron's say they won't work without modification to the z-bar. Does anyone know if the 6=8 shorty headers will work with my application without modifying the z-bar?

Thanks
To the best that I know Clifford Only sells the shorty headers any more. I build my own headers, So I can not help answer that Question. But try a call to Clifford and see what they say. I know they dump Out at the oil pan rail. So a GOOD exhaust shop Should??? be able to get around It with out any Real issues.
 

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Thanks Twisted6. I will get in touch with them and see what they say. I would give making my own a shot, as I'm pretty decent with a welder, just don't have a good way to bend that kind of tubing. Anyhow, thanks again.
 

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Thanks Twisted6. I will get in touch with them and see what they say. I would give making my own a shot, as I'm pretty decent with a welder, just don't have a good way to bend that kind of tubing. Anyhow, thanks again.
You can Buy just about any Bend you want or Need. Or you can get/buy what they call J pipe from guys Like Jegs Or anyone who sell exhaust Pipe.
 
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