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Discussion Starter #1
I have finally taken the plunge and bought a 2006 L33/4l60e to put into my '68. :D

For a link to all the pics: http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab303/brandonjones30/L33%20Swap/

This combo is replacing a 350/350 combo that has been in my car for about two years now, but the reliability and power of a fuel injected engine is too good to pass up. I am only able to do this with the help of my dad (who is the best dad in the world since he put aside his '64 Chevelle project to help me with mine), and I cannot thank him enough for the time and effort he is putting in to help get my car back on the road again.

Well I am about 4 weeks into the swap, and we are getting close to get this thing running, but I'll start at the beginning. I'll try to be detailed for all those who are attempting this swap. The multiple threads here on Steve's are an invaluable source of information.

I started out by buying a 2000 5.3 from Pioneer Auto Wrecking in So Cal for $600. It was sort of an impulse buy, and I was too excited to check the VIN number to make sure it was a 5.3. I didn't check it until I had it home on the stand, partially disassembled and it ended up being a 4.8. We took it back to the wrecking yard and I ended up finding a complete 2006 L33 with 62,000 miles, and we went home with it for $100 bucks more, for a grand total of $700.

Here is the 4.8 I thought was a 5.3


And here is the 2006 L33
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well once I had the right engine, it was (partially) disassembled and cleaned up



Just a note, I am not making many performance modifications to this engine (I don't have very much money). I only replaced a few gaskets (throttle body, oil pan, and injector o rings). The only power adder going on is headers. It has low miles, and so I don't think it needs to be gone through completely (and the more things I tear into the greater chance of screwing something up). So this install is more about getting it into the car and running rather than increasing power.

So, that said, I am using the Holley LS Swap oil pan ($320 from Auto Parts Way). Here's the link http://www.autopartsway.com/PartDetails.cfm?302-1/H19/
This is the cheapest place I found it.

Here is the pan installed:



Motor mounts are Dirty Dingo Double D Aluminum Swap plates. I chose these as they have multiple mounting positions (standard, .5" forward, 1.25" forward). http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.php?cPath=1_206_305_335
The multiple mounting points came in handy later on when the engine was installed.
 

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Looks good. My next swap I will try the dirty dingo brand. I think they also make and sliding adjustable one.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
As for the wiring, I am modifying the harness myself. The harness off this engine was uncut and very clean. I used the lt1 swap website as my guide. This is my first real experience with electrical, but there is plenty of resources out there to help. I used TomM's guide and Brendan's website http://www.lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm. He tells you exactly what wires to pull out and what each wire does. There is also a lot of other info on there, such as how to build your own fuse box and relays. He can also do pcm programming for $75.

I am not shortening the harness at all. It will be the stock length as it came out of the truck, and laid out similarly as stock. While doing the harness this way is not the prettiest way to do it, it is the easiest and the best way to avoid screwing up. I figure that the more wires I cut and shorten, the better chance I will have of messing up. Just one bad connection could be very bad, mkay

Here is a pic of the stock harness laid out


Here is the harness modified for stand alone. The wires and connectors in the upper right corner are what is taken out of the harness.



I have tons more to write, and I will continue to update, but that's it for today.
 

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Are you going to use the factory truck fan on your conversion?

Just wondering, I did on my '66 Wagon.
 

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AWESOME price on that pan, and those motor mounts are freakin' slick!!! I could've used those on mine, I would have loved to move it forward 1/2". I have a Chassisworks clip and used their LS mounts. Tad too tight in the back for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, what position did you use with the motor mounts, and why? I'm still trying to figure out which brand of mounts to use with my setup.
The motor is 1 1/4" forward.

AWESOME price on that pan, and those motor mounts are freakin' slick!!! I could've used those on mine, I would have loved to move it forward 1/2". I have a Chassisworks clip and used their LS mounts. Tad too tight in the back for me.
Yes the pan is dirt cheap, and their shipping is pretty fast. The ability to move the engine forward rather than back was crucial. I'll explain in a bit.

Are you going to use the factory truck fan on your conversion?

Just wondering, I did on my '66 Wagon.
The trucks in 2006 didn't use a clutch fan, they used dual electrics, so I am running a electric fan out of a '92 Camaro. Big Al has a nice thread about these fans.

Looks good. My next swap I will try the dirty dingo brand. I think they also make and sliding adjustable one.
The sliding ones are nice, however they are much more pricey than the aluminum ones I used.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright, here is the engine/tranny combo that the L33/4l60e is replacing...



Once it was out, we took off the front end for ease of installation and cleaned up the subframe and firewall. It came out looking nice.



I picked up a 4l60E out of a 2005 Avalanche for a smoking deal. I paid $240 for the tranny, and it only had 55,000 miles on it.

 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The Dirty Dingo mounts are nice and include the holes for the humps on the motor mounts. However, the holes in the motor mounts are not tall enough so that the mount sits flat, so some modification is needed. I am using the short/wide rubber mounts and frame mounts. It might be different if using aftermarket mounts or tall/narrow mounts?

While this is a simple fix, we had an issue with the oil pan touching the subframe. There is an off-center hump on the main crossmember of the subframe that would touch the subframe no matter what the position. So the motor and tranny was pulled out, the hump beat level, and the combo went back in. For the most oil pan clearance, the 1 1/4" forward was used, and thick washers were used to move the engine up for more clearance. As it sits now, there is a good amount of clearance between the oil pan and crossmember. I think using the tall/narrow frame mounts would have helped, but I'm cheap :devil:

Here it is in the car, with the Dynatech headers installed. These were $400 from Summit. I just looked at the website and now they are over $500? I guess I got them just in time. They fit very well, plenty of clearance at the power steering box.





However, there are two issues with these: first is that the driver side motor mount needs to be trimmed to accomodate the header tube, and second is that the placement of the #3 tube requires new spark plug wires. I used this MSD kit, which has adjustable boots and these are 8.5 mm wires. It was about $65.





 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another note, the fuel rails have been flipped to line up better with the original fuel hard line (This was Burke's idea, thanks Burke!)
However, the plastic protrusions on the intake have to be trimmed for the crossover rail to fit. Otherwise it works great, and I don't have to redo the 3/8" hard lines I already have and I don't have to run the fuel line behind the back of the intake.

Also, the fact that the engine/tranny are moved forward allows me to use the stock small block heater box and core. There is plenty of clearance at the firewall, and I can easily route my harness behind the intake for a cleaner look. However, this does limit the amount of room you have between the front of the engine and the radiator.

And, I can use my powerglide/th350 transmission crossmember! :eek: It does not line up exactly like the th350 did, but one hole on each side of the crossmember line up with the factory holes. Two more holes will have to be drilled. Also, the th350 rubber transmission mount worked perfect!:D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looks great! I am putting a L33 in my 1969 Nova. Can you show some pics of the clearance you have with the oil pan. I like to see how it fits in relation to the steering center link. I'll be following your thread.
I've got plenty of clearance at the center link, it's the space between the oil pan and the crossmember that's tight. I don't have a picture at the moment but I'll try to get you one.

I'm jealous, man. I can't wait until I get to everything squared away and slip that engine into place.

Your project is looking great.
Thank you sir!

Update time! Sorry for the delay, it's been busy. Let me get to the fuel system.

I am using a Competition Engineering sump (about $70 from Summit) with a Walbro GSL392 external pump (got it from Amazon with installation kit for about $100), a Corvette fuel filter/regulator (Wix 33737, like $30 from Rock Auto), and a big ol' Fram fuel filter. I used rubber hose and fuel injection clamps for the most part, with exception of the regulator to the hardline, because I could not find a good way to join those with rubber hoses, so we used AN lines. Here's some pics:
Sump mocked up:


Sump tacked on (I didn't take a pic when welding was complete):


We used a aluminum sheet to mount the pump and regulator behind the gas tank


Ran the return line to the original pickup, AN line to the 3/8 hardline


View from the back, the filter is tucked up in there, so you won't be able to see it with the bumper on
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here is the clearance between the radiator and the front of the engine. It's tight, but workable. Hood clearance is tight. If you notice in the pic, one of the raised threaded projections from the front of the intake where the cover would bolt down needed to be removed for the hood to close completely.



I am using a 17" electric fan out of a '92 Camaro. I read through Big Al's thread about these fans and was impressed, so we went to the local Ecology and got this for $35. My dad built a nice aluminum shroud for it, but pics of that will come later.



I will be using a horseshoe shifter out of a '68 Camaro that I bought on Ebay for $30. It's in pretty good shape, a little bit of pitting but for $30 I can't complain.



For the pedal, we are using the frankenpedal combination of the truck pedal and my original pedal. Here it is welded up, it's a bad pic because the nova part of the pedal is not on it and it's not mounted either. But it is in the car now and it works great, I'll get some pictures of it mounted.



More updates to come!
 

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Fuel Filter

Looks like you are making great progress! I did have one concern. I am doing a carb'd LS swap and put together a similar fuel system with the same large canister filter. I thought the filter has to be mounted vertically. Maybe I am thinking of my fuel pump though. Just a though, it would be worth checking before finding out the hard way! Keep kickin as on the swap man!

 

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I would check the max fuel pressure that fram filter is capable of handling, I've only really seen them on carb'd setups <10psi instead of F.I. where you'll be running ~58psi.

Also something to look into is if you want to mount your walbro closer to the bottom of the tank so gravity can help move the fuel to the pump, remember, it's a pusher not a puller! I did a similar fuel pump mount but extended the alumn. sheet further down the the bottom of the tank. Just food for thought! Keep up the updates!
 

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I would not make the fuel line connections at the regulator like that. The proper adaptors are available from Dorman part #800-121 & 800-120 they are available at most auto part stores.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update time! I've been really busy with the swap and work so it's been hard to find time to update.

As for the fuel filter, the description says that it is designed for a carb, but the specs for the filter exceed the requirements for a fuel injected engine (filter can flow 90 gph and pressure up to 200 psi).

Burke, the quick connect fitting on the ffp on the return side was used, but I'm not worried about the inlet. That hose is not coming off. I don't really have that much faith in the quick connects anyways.

Here is the oil pan clearance to the steering linkage:


For my cooling system, I used a direct fit Northern aluminum radiator that I already had in the car. This radiator has a built in tranny cooler and a fitting for the vent tube. I used the Summit twist-tite fittings for the vent tube line and the transmission cooler lines. Instead of running new lines all the way back to the transmission, we got the hard lines to fit in the subframe, and cut them off at the front crossmember. We then used hardline adapters to the twist-tite hose, and ran that to the radiator.



For the fan, I am using an electric fan out of a '92 Camaro. My dad made a nice shroud for it. The motor is quite large, and it sticks out quite a bit. Since my engine is mounted forward, there is not any room for it in the middle of the radiator. So the fan was moved down to fit.


 
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