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Discussion Starter #1
My 200-4r shifts at the right RPM's and is VERY firm at slight and part throttle. Will even chirp the tires when going around a corner. If i bring it up to 3500rpm and shift manually (again with only part throttle) it is still very firm. The problem is that if I am at WOT and shift it, the shift becomes very sloppy. Is there anything I can do about this?

Thanks!
 

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I hope you get some good responses to your question, as I have the same problem with my 200.4R that I pulled out of a 85 Buick LeSabre.

It shifts hard under light throttle; firm under moderate throttle; and soft if I really get on it.

The only thing I have modified is the wiring, so that it only locks up the converter in 4th gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Unfortunately, I think this just may be the way those tranny's are. This is the third one I've owned (and one of them was a $2500 Art car unit) and they have all done the same thing).

Anyone have a 200-r4 that shifts HARD at WOT???
 

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Mine shifts just like yours soft on WOT and firm on part throttle:confused:
 

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I would like to add my $.02 but I just had the intake valve on #3 stick open... So it may be a little while before I get to WOT. On the bright side I can pull both heads and do some spring cleaning:D
 

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had the same issues with mine. it was a "stage 3" unit from bowtie overdrives. Glad I no longer am running that thing.
 

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Have you checked the throttle valve cable? That woud certianly cause a problem. It could be stretched too much. I know both my 200s shift firm and crisp at WOT. Even the stock one that came out of my car, and will be going into Jasons72's Nova.

Could also be a line pressure problem. Im no expert by any means, but anything is possible. Have you checked the fluid level? Is the fluid still good? Need more info on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have the 'correct' throttle correction bracket (from TCI I believe) so the geometry should be correct. Could it be that the cable is the wrong length and/or the wrong cable? Or do you think thta I might have to move the adjuster 'forward'
 

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I have the 'correct' throttle correction bracket (from TCI I believe) so the geometry should be correct. Could it be that the cable is the wrong length and/or the wrong cable? Or do you think thta I might have to move the adjuster 'forward'
You could try that. Ive always pulled it backwards to tighten it. Its possible the cable could be the wrong one.

Other than that, Im at a loss.

When these 200s work right, nothing can beat them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When you said that it was 'stretched too much' I assumed that I should loosen it which would mean I should push the adjuster toward the front of the car... correct? I believe that by moving it back toward the firewall I would be tightening it and/or stretching it more... right?
 

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I think by design these are made to shift somewhat softer at full throttle than at part throttle. That is so they don't blow themselves apart.

The other issues is that they can suffer from reduced pressure at higher rpm unless they have the upgraded pumps in them. My level two BTO trans was a little soft at full throttle. When it was rebuilt by Extreme Automatics last fall he found that it had a stock vane rotor in the pump. This was probably why it auto shifted from 1-2 at 5,400 rpm after it some some miles on it.

I would say first try a couple different setting on the TV cable. I am using one of the "extender" springs from that "Raptor" outfit in Texas. Adjust so that the cable is fully extended (plus spring stretched" at full throttle. If that doesn't do it you may need an 11 or 13 vane pump installed.
 

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I have two 200-R4's, one in my stock '87 Olds 442, it shifts fine at WOT, did straight from the factory.

The other is in my '79 El Camino with a TPI ZZ4. Had it re-built by a guy who was recommended to me and he did a great job, shifts fine @ WOT.

I like'em for the street.:D
 

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What RPM does your trans shift at during very light throttle?
Both of mine have shift kits in them, and each kit is different.

The Olds kit is more aggressive and has high shift points at light throttle.

The El Camino shifts very quickly at light/part throttle, but with the high torque engine (400 ft/lb), it doesn't 'bog', etc. To get the maximum shift point(s), you have move the shift lever by hand.

Hope that helps.

dc
 

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My BTO stage 3 shifts hard at WOT, rips the 31X18.5 hoosiers loose and shifts hard into third,No problems here,Mine shifts firm at all RPMs it shifts at
 

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jeffa55 and ScoJack (Scott),
check this out for some helpful info on T.V. cable adjustments::yes:

CPT-(California Performance Transmission) has good 200-4r tech info.

Tech home page link:
http://www.cpttransmission.com/techinfo.htm

200-4R T.V. cable adjustment instructions:
http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm

self-adjusting T.V. cable Jpeg drawing:
http://www.cpttransmission.com/Files/tec1.jpg

T.V. cable bracket fabrication Jpeg drawing:
http://www.cpttransmission.com/Files/tec2.jpg

Also, about comment by dlc1979 saying he still had to manually upshift for maximum rpm even after installing 200-4r shift kit. If he had, say a B&M shift recalibration kit including the governor 6-pack of weights and springs, wouldn't this fix the problem? It should then automatically shift at a precise rpm, say like 6,000 rpm, for maximum acceleration. This is the way to fine-tune the shift point at wide-open throttle (WOT). Sure, you can move the lever manually, but isn't it nice if didn't have to? Bracket racers want a consistent shift point at exactly the same rpm.:rolleyes:

The governor circuit controls WOT upshifts. For transmissions like the 200-4r and TH700-R4, heavier stock weights tend to create earlier upshifts, say like 4,700 rpm, while the lighter weights push the shift point to a higher rpm like 6000 rpm. Stiffer governor springs tend to bring the shift points closer together; lighter springs move them farther apart. It's a trial-and-error process to get the right combination that you want.:cool:

While this does not make your car faster, it does make it consistent.
The above has no effect on part-throttle shifts. On TH350 and TH400 transmissions, it's easy to change by adjusting the vacuum-modulator valve with a allen wrench in the valve's hose nipple, clockwise to raise shift-points, counterclockwise to lower part-throttle upshifts.

Just some stuff I wanted to pass on to you.:D

Gary
 

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Also, about comment by dlc1979 saying he still had to manually upshift for maximum rpm even after installing 200-4r shift kit. If he had, say a B&M shift recalibration kit including the governor 6-pack of weights and springs, wouldn't this fix the problem? It should then automatically shift at a precise rpm, say like 6,000 rpm, for maximum acceleration. This is the way to fine-tune the shift point at wide-open throttle (WOT). Sure, you can move the lever manually, but isn't it nice if didn't have to? Bracket racers want a consistent shift point at exactly the same rpm.:rolleyes:

The governor circuit controls WOT upshifts. For transmissions like the 200-4r and TH700-R4, heavier stock weights tend to create earlier upshifts, say like 4,700 rpm, while the lighter weights push the shift point to a higher rpm like 6000 rpm. Stiffer governor springs tend to bring the shift points closer together; lighter springs move them farther apart. It's a trial-and-error process to get the right combination that you want.:cool:

While this does not make your car faster, it does make it consistent.
The above has no effect on part-throttle shifts. On TH350 and TH400 transmissions, it's easy to change by adjusting the vacuum-modulator valve with a allen wrench in the valve's hose nipple, clockwise to raise shift-points, counterclockwise to lower part-throttle upshifts.

Just some stuff I wanted to pass on to you.:D

Gary
Since my El Camino is a 99% street driver, I asked the trans guy to not alter the stock shift points, but to make the shift points firm, which he did. If I leave it in Drive, it shifts early, around 5 - 5,500 or so, but if I pull it down into Low, it'll stay there until I shift.

On the occasions when I want to run it hard, I don't mind manually shifting. If/when I get tired of it, I'll take your advice and play with governor recalibration.

Good info you provided, many thanks.

dc
 
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