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BTW, the wheels are 18 X 10 and 275/45 tires.
1st gen tci 4 link quater panel buckle woes...
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So I finally got the time to take a shot at getting rid of the dimples/buckles/ large dents on my quarters. So heres a breif write up. Car is mini tubbed with tci 4 link. I decided to go with Shane65's method and make 2 adjustable struts for inside the trunk to pull up on the frame at the rear. The worked perfect and the rear end of the car is solid even with my big ass sitting in the trunk. I made 2 brackets that were mounted through the trunk floor and welded to the frame.
Trunk side
![397310]()
Frame side before welding
![397311]()
For the upper mount I made 2 "towers" the mounted to the top area of the wheel well and anchored to the rear C pillar bracing/ boxes. This seemed as if it would be the best structurally and would keep both sides symmetrical. The wheel well/ tub is not taking all the load this way either. Looking back on it I wish it would have made something cleaner looking, but I guess know one is really going to see it anyway.
Right side
![397312]()
Left side
![397313]()
I then made 2 struts with heim joints at either end. both are the same length, cant remember how long they were though. I installed them, supported the car by the rear of the frame rails, and adjusted the bars up snug plus an extra half turn or so. Then lowers the car back onto jack stands under the rear axle. It is unbelievable how solid the rear feels now. And best of all.... no more dimples, dents, buckles, or anything. Both quarters are straight (they are orignial to the car also). I hope this helps some of you out. Im curious as to what the experts think, i am by no means a fabricator/ builder or anything like that.
Heres a few finished pics.
![397314]()
![397315]()
![397319]()
Trunk side
Frame side before welding
For the upper mount I made 2 "towers" the mounted to the top area of the wheel well and anchored to the rear C pillar bracing/ boxes. This seemed as if it would be the best structurally and would keep both sides symmetrical. The wheel well/ tub is not taking all the load this way either. Looking back on it I wish it would have made something cleaner looking, but I guess know one is really going to see it anyway.
Right side
Left side
I then made 2 struts with heim joints at either end. both are the same length, cant remember how long they were though. I installed them, supported the car by the rear of the frame rails, and adjusted the bars up snug plus an extra half turn or so. Then lowers the car back onto jack stands under the rear axle. It is unbelievable how solid the rear feels now. And best of all.... no more dimples, dents, buckles, or anything. Both quarters are straight (they are orignial to the car also). I hope this helps some of you out. Im curious as to what the experts think, i am by no means a fabricator/ builder or anything like that.
Heres a few finished pics.
Attachments
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i bet that brought a smile to your face when the fix worked.
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I'm glad it worked out for you. I have to do this(or something like this) to my 64. I was thinking of a trunk divider running from the top of the wheel tub to the floor and continue to the rear on both sides. Advantage is stiffening the rear and with an opening for each one, a separate area to store my trunk junk. I would likely weld in some temporary struts which would be removed afterwards. The dis-advantage is it's work for me.
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I did the CBR Tri-4, no mini tubs, still got dimples. Kit was installed with leaf springs in place and car on ramps at all 4 corners. Did the bars in the trunk trick to correct the issue. (Although, i took my bars up to the back seat divider and welded a reinforced bracket there for future possible mini tubs and avoiding rework.)
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1,624 Posts
62 convertible. Heidts 4 link, no mini tubs. Battery in trunk on the flat area above rearend. The rear quarters were replaced before I got the car and it still had leafs. To start my 4 link install I drove the car onto ramps for the front wheels. Then I used a floor jack under the differential to raise the car to level. Next I supported the car at the outter rockers just in front of the rear wheel wells with a couple jack stands. Next I measured the distance from the ground up to the rear frame rails just in front of the rear bumper and then cut to length some 4x4 pieces to support the rear end of the car. Now I removed floor jack, pulled the diff and the leafs and proceeded to install everything. No dimples for me. Your mileage may vary.
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I may have to copy this
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There is no way to measure the amount of adjustment that I know of. I assembled the adjustable rod with left and right hand hiem joints(fine thread). Tightened them until there was no play and continued. Don't remember how much since it was 20 years ago but I wouldn't think it was any more than a full turn.
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780 Posts
Bugguy and Shane, where did you get your rod ends and joints and what size did you use. Im gonna do this to my 66 before developing dimples. I've already mini tubbed it and most likely CBR tri 4 link. I need to replace a quarter so I figure I'll strengthen/brace the rear before replacing the quarter. Thanks for any info.
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6,615 Posts
I did it 20 years ago and think I got them at Carlisle swap meet. Get a left and right hand thread for each bar. Best to have a hex or square on the bar in order to turn the bar to adjust the length. The bar has to threaded for left and right threads or weld some inserts with the correct threads. Once installed you adjust the rods to make them longer.
Ballistic fab in Tucson has pretty good prices, I’ve bought a few things from them.
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780 Posts
thanks guys appreciate the info. Gonna look for the parts
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