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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I've been enjoying this site for a couple of years but have never really posted because I'm just a plumber with the computer skills of a five-year-old! Anyway, I have questions so here goes.

I have a 63 ss that has gone from a street car to street/strip car and is probably going to end up a trailerd drag car. It has a stock front clip with the CPP mini subframe, stock upper arms with global west bushings, morosso trick springs, and Calvert 90/10's. The front pops up nice on launch but doesn't want to completely settle until the wheels are turned.

Is this due to the poor geometry and the deflection created on the shocks at full extension or am I missing something?

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hmmm. Has no one encountered this or would this be better suited for the drag racing forum?
 

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What do you mean it will not settle untill the wheels are turned?.......at the end of the track? with a little confusion I will give it a try. What setting are you using on the 90/10's? I used to run the same shocks and found that the car actually came up too fast and I ended up in the lowest setting making them more like a stock shock, not to mention in the easiest ,up setting, the car did not really want to settle down, and you are also running trick springs, this may be adding to the cause and effect.

With drag racing in mind do you have some lubricant on the lower control arm eccentric bolts? If I were using those particular arms, which I will not, I would make sure to lube the pockets and bolts so that the arms could have as little as possible resistance.

I hope I was able to help you out somewhat?....feel free to contact me if you have any further questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Chuck, thanks for your response, let me try to clarify. The Calvert 90/10's I have are non-adjustable valving. I did grease the lower control arm bolts and don't have them real tight, creating a bind. I have suspected the trick springs but I can't understand why the weight of the front end isn't enough to return them to their static state. The front end was staying up the entire 1/8 mile and I got it re-aligned and it was better but still not settling all the way. The thing that gets me is if the car is sitting and I grab the front end and yank it up it pops up nice by hand but stays there at least 2/3 of the travel. It does not settle (even after hours of sitting) until I turn the steering wheel lock to lock. My hunch has been that because the stock front end travel was only 3 inches and now I am at 4.5 inches I am now beyond the normal intended range of the upper arm and piviting spring perch. In other words when the arm is dropped all the way the spring perches are rotated outward deflecting the shocks outward and creating a bind. When I raise the front end, letting the suspension drop, and un bolt the shock towers both will snap outward toward the fenders because of the deflection created on the shocks at full extension. I don't know if I'm making any sense but thanks for trying!

DH
 

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With the springs and shocks that you are running the front end will not settle the whole way down the track. Your engine is keeping it up when you are under power. With just the 90/10 shocks my front would stay up as well when pulled up by hand. It sounds as if you have enough power to pull the front up pretty good, maybe you will want to change either the springs or the shocks to tame the extended rise down a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It looks like some double adjustable shocks and possibly back to stock springs might be in order sometime in the future (man those shocks are expensive...but then again what isn't!).



If I were using those particular arms, which I will not,
You got my curiousity, could you elaborate?
 

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What's your thoughts on installing some sort of limiters for the front end travel? I haven't seen any installed on an early Nova but I know a lot of drag racers that use them, mainly to control wheel stands but possibly you could benefit as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The thought of limiters has crossed my mind but I just can't believe I am making the power to need them. Right now I'm running a budget 385 maybe making 425hp at the flywheel. I'm on 235 MT radials with complete Calvert rear suspension. I'm only sixty footing in the 1.68 range and running 7.80's in the 1/8. The previous year, and my first season with the car I fought with no front suspension travel and weight transfer, sixtying in the 2.0 range to where I am now.

It's a learning curve, that's for sure!
 

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I had the same problem with my car and I had koni adjustable drag shocks with stock 6 cylinder springs. I wound up doing a coil over conversion and limited the travel with the shock. This improved my 60 fts on N20 and kept the nose down.

Conversely, on my buddy's 63 he had the same problem I thought the front end was coming up too fast and also staying up on the big end. I wound up changing the rear shocks they were bottomed out at rest. I put rancho adjustables and now the car pops up and stays up and keeps the tires planted but now the front end settles down as well.
 

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It looks like some double adjustable shocks and possibly back to stock springs might be in order sometime in the future (man those shocks are expensive...but then again what isn't!).





You got my curiousity, could you elaborate?
Look into the Church Boys front end kit and you will understand!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had the same problem with my car and I had koni adjustable drag shocks with stock 6 cylinder springs. I wound up doing a coil over conversion and limited the travel with the shock. This improved my 60 fts on N20 and kept the nose down.

Conversely, on my buddy's 63 he had the same problem I thought the front end was coming up too fast and also staying up on the big end. I wound up changing the rear shocks they were bottomed out at rest. I put rancho adjustables and now the car pops up and stays up and keeps the tires planted but now the front end settles down as well.
First and foremost, love your car man! I'd really like to hear and see some details on it like is it full or mini tubbed etc. What kind of coil over conversion did you do? Also, with regard to your buddy's '63, what is he running for front suspension?

I also have the rancho sa's on the rear on the softest setting because anything stiffer and I don't get any rear separation. I don't think I make the power to really separate and plant the rear with the stiff split monos. I also have to soften the hit to the small radials because with a 4.10:1 rear ratio they just won't seem to take a hard hit.

Great info though, that's exactly what I was looking for when I posted.
 
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