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Discussion Starter #1
Who is running a 1st gen with a "stock" front end and what is your set up?

Background on the car, 350/th350, runs high 12s and is mostly daily driven. I'm looking to do some upgrades this winter but would like to keep the stock clip. The plan so far is to do new poly control arm bushings, box the arms, do the roller bearing conversion in the idler arm... I have a set of the lower control arm eccentric lock out plates I plan on using, and I would like to get one of the strut tower bars from teddisnoke(apologies if the name is spelled wrong) on here.

So who is running a stock clip and who has done what? What do people like, what don't they like? Thanks guys.
 

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Personally ditch the stock lower arm arrangement and go with a CBR or CPP lower arm and do not look back,single best thing that can be done to a stock nova front end.Bearing idler is also a great improvement over stock.
 

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Personally ditch the stock lower arm arrangement and go with a CBR or CPP lower arm and do not look back,single best thing that can be done to a stock nova front end.Bearing idler is also a great improvement over stock.
Is this Mr. Church?
 

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Nope:eek: Brian
No problem, A buddy of mine works for dakota digital and had talked to Mr. Church on my behalf about a front end.

So Brian, you say the lower control arm setup isn't even worth using, but you think it'll perform well with a factory steering box, idler arm bearing conversion, and somebodies (cbr :cool:) lower control arms?
 

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I am also at the same point right now. I have the idler arm bearing and the lock outs but have only driven about a mile so far (I have a few kinks to work out) it turns a bit smoother but you can tell its an old car.

my plan is a church boys lower control arm kit, I have heard nothing but good about their lower kit I like the idea of a direct bolt in assembly and that you can add other upgrades to it over time. I also plan on a snoke bar if it will fit around the breather / oil filler cap on my inline 6

Brian is suggesting switching the stock lower control arms out and replacing them with a church boys or cpp lower control arm kit. Along with doing the idler arm bearing conversion.

look towards the bottom of the forum page some of the vendors have links to their sites and there are many threads about these upgrades if you search for them
 

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or talk to the people who have actually used these setups,
i think its the voodooII that has it? they convinced me:yes:
brian will know.
 

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No problem, A buddy of mine works for dakota digital and had talked to Mr. Church on my behalf about a front end.

So Brian, you say the lower control arm setup isn't even worth using, but you think it'll perform well with a factory steering box, idler arm bearing conversion, and somebodies (cbr :cool:) lower control arms?
I have been through stock,Global West modified stock,CPP and CBR and the lower A-arm design is a huge improvement over the stock arm/strut rod.Steering will still be ?? with a stock steering box,most are worn out.If yours is good it should drive great.Bump steer can also be an issue with stock steering linkage and box but varies so much from application to application.Lowered cars it gets worse and high HP drag cars with lots of front end travle it also gets really bad.This is the main reason I went with the CBR rack in the begining,my car would toe in BAD at the drags when the front end lifted.
 

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I'm running the stock clip, stock steering, idler arm bearing, upper and lower CBR bars, stock style sway bar. About 2000 miles on all of it and I am very happy. I also added the strut bar from dale snooke and noticed a firmer front end with less noise from what I call movement. 65 coupe with 350/700R4.
For what it's worth.
Greg
 

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I run a completely stock front end, have to. Some of the rules at some of the events I run in won't even let me modify my stock control arms of modify my ride height. The only modification I can do is brakes because the car runs too fast.

This off season I'll be doing a complete front end rebuild. Everything from the ball joints, to the tie rod ends, to the idler arm bearing will be done. I set up my suspension to try and keep my front end on the ground, however it will still pull the wheels a few to 6 inches. If you look at my avatar you will notice that I don't have a toe issue. However because my front end is stock, my alignment cams do move from launching and landing.
 

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I don't have a hydraulic press to press in, and out, the new bushings for an old upper control arm. So, I decided to purchase a new upper control arm too. I calculated that by the time I purchased new upper ball joints (dang they're expensive), new UCA bushings, paid someone to press out the old, and in with the new bushings, the drive time back and forth,, and gas, that I would be close to the cost of new UCA too. My suspension should arrive on Thursday. Yahoo!

-Ed
 

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I know CBR is the kit of choice but with a limited budget would the CPP kit work for a driver no racing just a cruiser .. allmost $200 difference i could put that into a the rear differential rebuild that i also need . thanks
 

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I know CBR is the kit of choice but with a limited budget would the CPP kit work for a driver no racing just a cruiser .. allmost $200 difference i could put that into a the rear differential rebuild that i also need . thanks
Do you put cheap gas in your car? Work with cheap tools? Use cheap tires? Buy paint in the dollar store to paint your car?

Remember, you get what you pay for! Don't be penny wise and dollars foolish!
 

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So your saying that the CPP kit is no good or are you just partial to CBR .. ?? anyone using the CPP kit ..
 

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I have the CPP lowers, with the bend for the CBR rack & pinion
CBR Rack & Pinion Manual, stock cross member with mounts welded in.
CBR sway bar
Stock upper control arms new bushings and ball joints.
Coil overs. QA1 shocks. (Height adjustments made easy)

Standard Chevy Oil pan now fits.

I think it is great.

What would I change. CBR cross member, for accessory clearance

Also in the rear are 3 leaf ESPO Springs. But the CBR rear springs are interesting.
 

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I have the CPP lowers, with the bend for the CBR rack & pinion
CBR Rack & Pinion Manual, stock cross member with mounts welded in.
CBR sway bar
Stock upper control arms new bushings and ball joints.
Coil overs. QA1 shocks. (Height adjustments made easy)

Standard Chevy Oil pan now fits.

I think it is great.

What would I change. CBR cross member, for accessory clearance

Also in the rear are 3 leaf ESPO Springs. But the CBR rear springs are interesting.
Ok wait a minute you lost me so you have the CPP lower kit made for rack and pinion and use the CBR manual rack and pinion , also have stock upper arms ..
Correct
 

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Ok wait a minute you lost me so you have the CPP lower kit made for rack and pinion and use the CBR manual rack and pinion , also have stock upper arms ..
Correct
a few years back CPP was making some CBR designed lower arms. CPP's utilized a cheaper ball joint and rubber bushings. might be a set floating around... but they're no longer in production.
 
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