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Discussion Starter #1
I am getting ready to pull the motor and will eventually pull the trans probably as well.

I wanted to find out what everyones experience has been in pulling the motor and trans together or should I just pull the motor by itself as planned and do the trans later.

I will not be taking the front end sheetmetal apart at all so clearance could definitely be an issue.
 

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If its the stock setup you can get by with them together. I know you dont want to take apart the front end but at least the grille and possibly the hood for insurance. Just my .2

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I havent had any problems with past exp. in pulling them together :no:
 

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Hood off of course, pull them together works fine.

Unbolting 2 of the upper bellhousing bolts is hard unless you remove the trans mount and crossmember, then lower the back of the trans first. Then you can get those bolts with one of those 2 or 3 foot extensions and a 9/16" swivel socket.
 

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I've always removed the hood and grille and pulled them together. This time I pulled just the engine and left the tranny in the car. However, now I have a lift so I could get around underneath to get to bellhousing bolts etc. Motor is done and just broke in on the test stand this past weekend so when I get time in the near future I'm going back in. Hope it goes in as easy as it came out. I thought doing engine separate was easier but again, I have the luxury of a lift.
 

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I pulled motor and trans ( 4-speed ) together ---- took off hood - grill ANYTHING that would catch on something.. Made the mistake of not putting it back in the same way....tranny was a pian in d *****.
 

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With some Novas, you can loosen the rear transmission mount bolts and jack up the transmission just enough, in the tunnel, to get at the top transmission housing bolts.
 

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I dropped the trans and then pulled the engine. If you have an engine leveler then it's not a problem to pull it as a unit.

Just my :2cents:

:ragtop:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the replies.

I will likely pull them seperate as I will probably do it alone and I would imagine just the motor would be a little easier to manage around than all at once.

Motor has been in for close to 18 years but I do seem to remember those upper bellhousing bolts being a bear to get at.

I have not been in any huge hurry to pull the motor and have had the new one sitting next to the car all fall waiting to get around to it. Now I am looking at it being Dec already and i realize I need to get to work. Pull motor and throw new one in is not biggie but I am going to do some tiddying up and making it more sanitary. Now I just bought a new 9" rear setup and want to strip the underside of the rear and get it looking new as well.

I got to get busy!!!!
 

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I did mine by myself (with help from my alter ego:rolleyes:) as an assembly. I found that it was much easier to do and was able to use proper torque on the transmission to block bolts. This is an important step to prevent cracking the belhousing due to torque from racing.

I also noticed that the factory service manual mentions to pull the whole assembly as well.
 

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I have always pulled/assembled as a whole. What a PIA to get to the bolts on the transmission, just so close to the firewall. By the time you move the engine forward and mess with getting the bolts out you could have both out together. I'd say 15-20 minutes to get both out taking your time. :) An engine leveler is a must though. PLus I think it's easier to assemble the engine/trans out of the car. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finished unhooking most everything tonight and thought I would take a look at the two upper bellhousing bolts. These are the 2 that are supposed to be most difficult correct? I had plenty of room to get a box end wrench on each bolt and simply undo them. Each of these cars are different right:yes:

Still not sure if I will pull together or apart, probably decide once I get there.
 

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If you don't have a engine leveler to adjust angles pulling them together is a PIA and likely to mess up paint etc. unless you pull the core support & grille. I've always separated them and then pulled them. Still use a engine leveler, but don't have to mess with the core support or grille.

Walt
 

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I own a leveler and never used it, it's still new. I just mount an engine lift plate to the intake's carb flange and pull :yes:

Haven't damaged a paint job yet (about 40 years)! :no:

Remember, back when these cars were new there wasn't such a thing as an engine leveler. :no:
 

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Just dropped mine back in yesterday. First time I'd ever pulled the motor by itself and reinstalled. It literally took me 15 minutes to drop it in and mate to the tranny. I did the top 2 tranny bolts from up top with carb. and dist. removed I could see them easy.
 

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noob

Im doing an engine swap leaving the trans in. Im a complete newcomer w/o any previous knowledge and Im basically doing it off of internet guides. So far Ive disconnected all wires, tubes etc but the barrellhousing bolts seemed really hard to reach.

Ill try removing carb and dist tomorrow like Wadd2 wrote, hopefully Ill see the bolts better. Is it alot of extra work removing engine+trans together incase I just cant get to the bolts?

Any other advice for a firsttimer would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Im doing an engine swap leaving the trans in. Im a complete newcomer w/o any previous knowledge and Im basically doing it off of internet guides. So far Ive disconnected all wires, tubes etc but the barrellhousing bolts seemed really hard to reach.

Ill try removing carb and dist tomorrow like Wadd2 wrote, hopefully Ill see the bolts better. Is it alot of extra work removing engine+trans together incase I just cant get to the bolts?

Any other advice for a firsttimer would be greatly appreciated!
Once you get the 4 other bolts in the trans., you can jack up the tailshaft of the trans(just remove the 2 mount bolts is all) and this will give you more room for the top 2 bolts if you need it.
 
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