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I have my 65 heater box apart on my bench and am curious what you guys insulated the little flap doors inside the box with and what did you use to reseal the box back together? I went to the paint store today, and they didn't have the same white "dum dum" putty kinda stuff that sealed the old box. I've thought of just using clear silicone caulk. Thinking of buying some of that double sided shiney foil to insulate the little flaps that are cable activated.....
Also, wondering if there is a home repair product that is flexible hose that's around 2.4" in diameter that I can buy local rather than paying 40 bucks for 2 little plastic hoses from vendors......
Let me hear from you 1st gen guys who have rebuilt your heaters. And, as always, THANKS FOR READING AND RESPONDING! Brett.
 

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Brett, i bought the dum-dum from my local paint supplier, made by 3M the flexible duct hose is sold by the foot and is available from yer local parts house, made by Gates, Datco, Goodyear etc etc etc... they may not carry it, but it's listed in front pages of product description... it comes in (i believe) 3 foot lengths in the carton, when it's a stocked item, it's sold by the foot...


the flappers etc... i THINK some guys used a scotchbrite, cut to size and glued to flapper or a computer mouse pad has been stated as a good material too... the fat sponge thingy at end of flapper, this i heard was made out of the sponge typ packing material sometimes found and just trimmed to fit...


Bogey and RICH gave me some pretty good ideas i believe some time back, but i can't find the posts now...


i hope others can hook ya up with better info than i... i tried...

be cool my Friend, best wishes for the New Year ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Flyer....dang good suggestion on the "mouse pad" thing! Hadn't thought of that one. I'm guessing these little doors originally had jute or something, because some of the doors have little "teeth" that look like a jute pad was slipped in under it. Naturally, there was zilch left in mine....BUT, there was plenty of rust dust!
I'm going to have to visit another paint supply shop, no doubt. Good to hear about the hose, have to check out NAPA. See ya and thanks, Brett.
 

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Hey there Brett, I'm doing this as well. Chevy 2 Only sells a heater box gasket set that as far as I can tell has all the necessary flap pads, all made out of the standard neoprene gasket material, much as a mousepad would be (though mousepads are made from all kinds of things). Anyway, it's 10 or 12 bucks, and I recommend it.

As for the seam sealer, I was curious about that, because my heater box had none. I asked Novatorious Rex about this, since he has gone through the heater box on his 67, and he also said there was no sealer, if I understood him correctly.

I went ahead and spent the 30 bucks for 6 feet of the flex duct from Chevy 2 Only, now here comes Johnny, sayin' you can get it at any auto parts store. :rolleyes: Dangit "Johnny Savings", you're the keeper of the Library, let's see some links!! :D :D I could not find the right size of flex duct anywhere else.
 

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Greg, thanks for the c2o gasket info. I put mine back together using some thick black weatherstrip sealant made by 3M. I also need the flapper gaskets and will order them now that I know they exist. Great post!:) One other point to mention, I had the heater core flushed and leak tested for 10 bucks - cheap insurance!
 

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I understand that you must put some type of pading on the end of the doors that direct the flow of the air in the heaterbox. Mine has some rubberish black foam stuff on the ends of the doors, but also it has a very fluffy insulation type of stuff that is put on the side of the doors. It is held there by little hooks. Most of mine was all rotted and half gone so I pulled the rest of it out. What was the purpose of this fluffy insulation? The black foam at the nd of the doors is to make the doors quiet and not bang when you move them, but the other fluffy stuff doesnt come in contact with any other walls or doors, so It can't be for sound deadending, maybe it is some kind of heat insulation? I just wanna know if I have to replace it or just leave the door walls bare except for the padding at the end.

thanks
-Aaron
 

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not ta side step a question, but i'm involved with some bus i can't look into it right now... but i'll see about duct links in a few minutes for ya...
 

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Greg, humor me one more time... i checked the links in the Library, but the computerized sites are a FAR cry from a catalog... Check yer local parts house and ask if they show "Defroster hose" in their "Gates, Dayco" catalogs... it comes in lotsa different sizes and a couple different coverings... one is a wire with a rubberized type covering, the other is a cloth-like fiberous covering... the cloth covered is the type you'd want... check it out and if i'm wrong... i'll be wrong. but i don't think i am... we carried it in bulk and i know it's not gonna be a discontinued product...

sorry it took a while... there's a few issues i needed to take care of first... my apologies for the wait...
 

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the Flyer said:
Greg, humor me one more time... i checked the links in the Library, but the computerized sites are a FAR cry from a catalog... Check yer local parts house and ask if they show "Defroster hose" in their "Gates, Dayco" catalogs... it comes in lotsa different sizes and a couple different coverings... one is a wire with a rubberized type covering, the other is a cloth-like fiberous covering... the cloth covered is the type you'd want... check it out and if i'm wrong... i'll be wrong. but i don't think i am... we carried it in bulk and i know it's not gonna be a discontinued product...

sorry it took a while... there's a few issues i needed to take care of first... my apologies for the wait...
No problem, Johnny. Like I say, I'm covered, just trying to get the info for others. I'll call around tomorrow.
 

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Gates part numbers for the rubberized covered defroster hose (cloth discontinued, my error for being out of bus for 15 yrs)

2") 23832
2-1/4") 23836
2-1/2") 23840
2-3/4") 23844

standard box is 6' lenths... but you'll find it IS a stocking number, in which case it's sold by the foot....


Napa or whoever can convert numbers
 

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I also rebuilt mine, the entire thing was sandblasted and painted, the core pressure tested&flushed, new blower motor and the entire thing rebuilt using some Loctite non-hardening sealant. Should work for a few years again :)
 

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I actually started a "walk through" document that shown step by step where when I took my 67 one apart (sandblasted, painted and parts replaced) and half way through, I scrapped the idea because of the simplicity of the project.

I should have just finished the walkthrough and posted it!!

Oh well.
:)

-Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I thank everyone for their responses/suggestions/thoughts. Interesting to hear about Scooters' finds. I figured those little hooks were meant to hold some kinda "jute" padding, but zero of it was left in mine. Mine was DEFINATELY sealed with some kinda dum-dum, and it looked just like the stuff they use on the window pinch-welds (under the factory gaskets) for the front and rear windshields. It's kinda a whiteish non-hardening putty and it seals the two major peices of the case together and in addition, it's under the think metal bent strip which holds the heater core itself into the box, so it kinda seals that thin metal to the other part of the case.
Shows you how good it is to "bounce" ideas, as I'd already looked in the Chevy II Only hardcopy catalog and Classic Industries both and didn't see a seal kit.
Also, yes, I agree the rubber flaps are to keep the doors from banging hard when they close and the insulation on the doors would be helpful to seal off where you want the heat to go or not go, which is why I'm so interested in padding those little doors/flaps good while I've got it out of the car. Also, bought a new heater core (probably rebuild) from Advance for like $26 bucks or so, I know my old one was leaking a little because my heater box (under the core) was full of "rust dust". Again, thanks to all, I appreciate ya'll, Brett in Ala.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Oh yeah, and for those who need the hoses and don't have their box out to measure, the heater box outlets are 2.4 inches, as I recall. Brett.
 

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Bthomas71Chevy said:
I actually started a "walk through" document that shown step by step where when I took my 67 one apart (sandblasted, painted and parts replaced) and half way through, I scrapped the idea because of the simplicity of the project.

I should have just finished the walkthrough and posted it!!

Oh well.
:)

-Brent Thomas
Ohio
What?? Then you deleted the document? :eek: Blasphemy sir, I say blasphemy! :D

Seriously though, if anyone has recently finished re-attaching the cables to the outside of the box, snap a pic for us if you can. It'll be a while before I get to that point, but it would really help to make this thread a good overall reference.

Flyer: Thanks for the legwork on those part numbers, my man!
 

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Greg_R_63 said:
What?? Then you deleted the document? :eek: Blasphemy sir, I say blasphemy! :D

Seriously though, if anyone has recently finished re-attaching the cables to the outside of the box, snap a pic for us if you can. It'll be a while before I get to that point, but it would really help to make this thread a good overall reference.

Flyer: Thanks for the legwork on those part numbers, my man!
I took LOTS of re-assembly reference pics of my heater box before I pulled it out, I'll see if I can dig them up from my photo stash.
 
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