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Discussion Starter #1
Pretty fried from aligning the door after some hinge repair. Certainly a novice, but getting better.

It used to need the latch to pull it up into place to have the trim look flush (door to quarter). After the hinge repair the door is too high in the back. (Please see the photo below) All the other spots are...tolerable.

To get it down that last bit at the back, do you have to loosen both top and bottom hinges on the body and push on the back? Or is there another way?

Hoping this is the final adjustment. Thanks for all comments, always a pleasure.

-Rusty
 

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Pretty fried from aligning the door after some hinge repair. Certainly a novice, but getting better.

It used to need the latch to pull it up into place to have the trim look flush (door to quarter). After the hinge repair the door is too high in the back. (Please see the photo below) All the other spots are...tolerable.

To get it down that last bit at the back, do you have to loosen both top and bottom hinges on the body and push on the back? Or is there another way?

Hoping this is the final adjustment. Thanks for all comments, always a pleasure.

-Rusty
First I feel your pain , it can be a bitch. The hinge part that bolts to the door is for in and out adjustment, the part that bolts to the pillar is for back and forth. Your adjustment for what you need to do is on the pillar. You have 3 bolts on the upper and lower hinge, I would loosen all on the top and two on the bottom, you want to leave one tight enough to hold the door at its height. you want the door to swivel down. from the picture you posted if you get the upper lines to match your center molding is going to be off. Its also usually easier to take the striker off so it doesn't influence the alignment, good luck
 

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it also looks like you have no door gap between the quarter and door, if that's the case everything I stated above is wrong as the door will need to go forward first
 

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Is it a replacement door? From the angle of the picture the bottom gap looks good as the side trim lines up well. If the top is not lined up the bottom should be off too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The latch is off. Should have stated "ignore gaps, door is not shut." New rubber is holding it back. Should retake the pictures to show all gaps, but here goes...see edited pic below. Also, we moved the side trim to match, but then noticed the top of door trim was off--that is why it looks decent. BTW, original door, bottom right corner repaired.

The front (vertical) door gap is pretty tight.

Was kind of hoping only the bottom hinge would get the adjustment, as the top is insanely stuck on (replace its pin/bushing while on car), but probably not realistic.

-Rusty
 

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It would help to see the leading edge of the door gap against the fender. I think maybe the door needs to go forward a bit before coming down. Is there a big gap at the fender?

Also, I wouldn't worry about the trim piece for the moment, just the door. On a '64 I had, when I replaced the door hinges, it seems that after cycling them maybe 50 times I had to adjust the door up a little anyway just for a little bit of initial wear.
 

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I feel your pain too. I've got weeks into my door adjustment and they are close but still not right enough. I would think if the upper hinge bolts never came loose, that you can loosen the bottom hinge bolts and let the door come down and you should be close. You may, however, need to get those top hinge bolts loose to get it right.
To keep the door from dropping and maintain the gap at the bottom of the door I used a wood wedge I slid in from the front under the hinge between the door and rocker. I also have a platform with a foam pad on it so I can open the door and rest the door on the platform when I loosen the hinges. Both are very helpful if you're doing this yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ally- the leading edge of the door gap is pretty tight, and corner at the bottom is even tighter.

That is good to consider the cycling. May just try a tiny bit loose on the bottom and then call it a day.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

-Rusty
 

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Don't forget that the striker on the pillar might have a shim if the door doesn't shut perfectly or it interferes with the latch when closing. If it's tight and there's a shim, removing that might help.
 

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This simple little steel plate I cut and bolted to my jack helps immensely, you can raise or lower the whole door or just the front or back with no help.
 

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Wow, that is genius. What thickness of plate is that?

BTW, those gaps look great. Very jealous.

I got it decent enough after some fiddling. Turns out we should have test fit everything before paint...:turn:

Went to the other door, opened it and...that door needs hinge repair, too! Uh...maybe this winter...just want to drive it!

-Rusty
 

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Wow, that is genius. What thickness of plate is that?

BTW, those gaps look great. Very jealous.

I got it decent enough after some fiddling. Turns out we should have test fit everything before paint...:turn:

Went to the other door, opened it and...that door needs hinge repair, too! Uh...maybe this winter...just want to drive it!

-Rusty
Its 1/8, whats great is you take the striker out and adjust the door in the closed position.
 
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