Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok guys,
i've done some searaching on this in this forum but haven't really found an easy answer. I have the 230 6 cylinder that I want to swap out for a 350 small block and a t350 tranny
Is there any clearence issues I need to worry about?
I assume I need new motor mounts for the 350???Any good places to get them?
Is this all I need to worry about?
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
You need to worry about getting the right headers. But they sell conversion kits through places like Classic Industries. Comes with front sump oil pan and the motor mounts. It is pretty easy to do.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,757 Posts
(This should really be in a sticky somewhere...)

First off, welcome to the site! Now on to the swap...

You didn't say what year your Nova is, but since this is in the 1st/2nd gen section, I'll assume that.

As far as sources go, there are many. In no particular order, here are some places you can get parts:

http://www.nnnova.com
http://www.chevy2only.com
http://www.yearone.com
http://www.paddockparts.com

You will need:
- V8 engine mounts
- ram's horn exhaust manifolds, or some tubular headers
- An oil pan (*)
- A transmission crossmember (**)

Depending on what's in the car now, you may also need:
- Shifter for the TH350
- driveshaft
- transmission cooler

Optional:
- bigger radiator
- front springs

You'll need to do some minor rewiring and plumbing (alternator, gauge senders, fuel lines, exhaust, etc) to make sure things reach to where they need to go on the new engine, but overall it's not that difficult of a swap.

(*)The stock early Nova v8 oil pan is a front-sump design, and it is unique to the 62-67 Nova. The pan is made for use with the two-piece (pre 1986) blocks. If you go with the original pan setup, you will need the pan, an oil pump, the oil pickup tube, and a special oil pump shaft (1/2" shorter than a generic SBC one.) If you go with an aftermarket setup, there are pans for the two piece and one piece rear main blocks, as well as both front and rear sump styles.

(**) You can modify the existing crossmember by welding a plate over the opening, and drilling a hole in the appropriate spot for the rear transmission mount, or you can buy a bolt-in mount from several aftermarket suppliers

That's the basics...others can chime in with details I've left out.

Good luck...and keep us up to date on your progress!!
Pat
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,614 Posts
(This should really be in a sticky somewhere...)
You're exactly right, Patman. It's stuck now. I can consolidate this thread later to distill it down to necessary facts & instrux if necessary.

If it helps at all, I've got part numbers, suppliers, and prices listed for all of the components I used for my V8 swap on my website on my "projects/parts" page.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
571 Posts
1. Linkage for carb (L6 not the same) or you could trade up for a Lokar unit.
2. Motor Mounts (L6 not the same)
3. Exhaust manifolds or headers (I recommend Sanderson shorty headers)
4. You'll have to trim back the leading edge on your tranny x-member to clear the pan on the TH-350.
5. Front sump oil pan kit (Pan, dip stick and tube, oil pump and pick up)
6. yoke from drive shaft may have to be changed depending on the amount of splines.
7. Kick down cable and bracket (tranny)
8. V-8 radiator with tranny cooler

Hope this helps, Roy Landgrave :)

Is it just me or PATMAN and I are typing at the same time!!! lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
thanks for all the help guys. My nova is a 1966 2d. It seems like it might be a little more work than I want to get into. I am using it as a communter and the 6 cylinder is not running to well...it keeps dying on me every other day I drive it. One day it will run great and the next it just dies on me when its in gear. It also has low oil pressure. It has been sitting for many years so who knows what might be wrong with it.
But thanks again for all the great info
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
swap

I put a 350 in my 64. I used a new set of 1975 chevy pick-up exhaust manifolds. Fit right in. My TH 350 would not clear the left tunnel floor area. Used a hammer to stretch the sheet metal a little. Then with trial and error, it went right in. I cut off the front of my stock power glide transmission support and it clears the pan just enough to remove it. All of these suggestions came from fellow Steve members. When you get frustrated enough to pull your hair out..take a break. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
I'm glad this is a sticky. Now I can ask some questions. A little background info first

This is my first engine swap of any kind ever. Right now, its a 66 4dr, 230 straight six with the powerglide. I just bought a 327 out of a 67 camaro. The 210 hp version. Bought a really mild cam, lifters, valve springs, and some headers. Headmen 68160. Got a new HEI, spark plug wires, and some engine paint. The conv kit from chevy2 is coming soon. Mounts, oil pan, dipstick and necessary oil pump accessories. Carb and intake will be next in line to purchase. Also, i'm still going to need, fuel pump, new valve covers(no pcv hole), alternator, belt, fan, and a nice radiator/shroud. Possibly a mini starter will be needed to clear the headers. Anything I'm missing besides the hoses and junk like that?

Now the process. I can borrow a lift from some dude down the street. Should I pull the six out with the powerglide attached? Or just pull the engine? I heard it was a little easier to just take the tranny out with the engine, and re-attach it while out of the car. I have no idea, I've never done this before. Any modify-ing i need to do to the trans to get it to mate with the 327? Or is it just bolt and go? I understand all the parts, what they do, and where they go. I just really don't have the steps on how to get the thing in the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,728 Posts
One more thing to be careful with is the FUEL line. On the Six cylinder cars it stops at the shock tower on the passenger side. The Stock V8 Fuel line tucks under the frame and runs on the outside of the frame and turns back in under the stock battery box. The reason I brought this up is some guys just clamp a rubber hose onto the original line and run it right next to the EXHAUST. Which I feel is not safe.
One more thing is the stock OIL pump ( Mildon ) was not made to clear a 350 stroke. So some grinding has to be done on the OIL PUMP to the clear THE NUMBER 8 ROD NUT. Plus I ground a little off the top edge of the Rod nut too.
Also there are a couple of places on the pan that need to be hit with a hammer to clear the rods as they come around.

Hope this extra helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Will I need new kickdown rods and linkage for the powerglide to work properly with the v8?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
533 Posts
just completed 350 conversion on my 63 with stock 6cyl, t 10 borg-warner 4 speed trans, and hurst shifter
needed conversion oil pan
need engine and motor mounts
had to modify fuel lines
modified trans tunnel for trans , shifter linkage
rewired alternator to passenger side
ordered jr headers for 62-67 nova, still had to beat the **** out of them and lift the engine to get them in.
kept the stock radiator
used same trans mount
shortened driveshaft
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
any recommendations on headers?

I found the generic set I bought for my 63 won't fit on the passenger side b/c it hits the tranny bellhousing. It's a rear exhuast dump and I think it needs to be a mid / center exhaust dump--not like the driver side.

-JJ
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,820 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Firewall pedal arm:

You may have to massage or extend the pedal arm from the firewall. The stock v8 unit I think is a different length and has a curve in it. A new usable item I think is available from the aforementioned suppliers. Just another thing to think about I have muscled with on the swap.

Confidentially, I take the time to pull the radiator support and grill to remove the engine and trans in all one fell swoop. When it is done this way, I think it is much safer and more like a one man job.

The powerglide kick-down is unique for a v8 too. PM me I have one. A special pivot and rods all go together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
BBC/4spd Swap

Hello, does anyone have any information and pics on how to stuff/shoe horn in a BBC/4spd in between the stock shock towers of a 1st Gen Nova?:confused: Can this be done without cutting up the front end too much? As you can tell I'm a first timer to these ltl novas!:eek: Thanks in advance!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,698 Posts
Oil pickup question II

Im in the process of installing the engine conversion parts on my V8 350 (oil pickup, pan, pulleys, water pmp, etc.). When mounting the new pickup for the front sump pan, I noticed the pickup bracket does not measure up with the bolt on the main. I have a 350 4-bolt main. The pickup bracket is about 1/2 inch too long. Also, there is not a mounting bolt to mount this to (usually a wendage bolt that will allow you to bolt the main, then bolt the bracket below the main bolt).

Any suggestions as to what I can do, or where I can find a wendage bolt that will accomodate the pickup bracket? Can I tac weld the pickup rod to the pump itself and leave the pickup suspended without mounting to the main? Or should I find a wendage bolt and shorten the bracket by 1/2 inch?

Please advise.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Pics of v8 ful line Routing

Hi does any one have some picks of v8 fuel line routing. I'm replacing a fuel line in my '63 thqat has a v8 in it but the line was from a six cyl engine. I have the new line but could use some visual help. TIA
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top