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Discussion Starter #1


Recently acquired a 1970 Nova coupe and plan to build a solid cruiser and driver. Will document as much as I can as the build evolves.

Car is all original steel with no serious rust. Last repaint was in 1988.

Current specs:
350 bored .40 over
World heads
Zero decked, 10:1 compression
Holley 570 street avenger carb

Muncie M20, fresh rebuild

Quick Performance Ford 9”, 3.73:1 gears w/locker

Many small things on the list todo but a solid base.



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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)


First update on the build. Most are small things to improve the driving experience or safety issues.

Items completed:
• New speedometer cable
• All new dash light bulbs
• New turn signal flasher
• Fixed parking brake light
• Cleaned, untangled, loomed and tucked wiring under dash
• Removed instrument panel and epoxied broken mounting tabs. Fixed the rattling
• Repainted faded chrome trim on instrument panel
• Added butyl sound deadening to rear seat, rear wheel wells in cab and trunk divider.
• Removed lowering blocks in rear leaf springs to stop tire rubbing
• Added 6* shim to correct driveline angles
• Made a custom shift knob and installed
• Lubed hurst shift, no more squeaks
• Built custom speaker platform for inside front dash
• Installed Pioneer 3.5” speakers in dash





Items added to the list from these projects:
• Speedo is still not working
• Rear end still makes an odd sound at high RPMs

Current ongoing projects:
Fixing missing threaded insert on steering wheel faceplate
Reinstalling the factory heater
Installing rear speakers


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Discussion Starter #4
Nice car man. You make the shift knob with a 3D printer?

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Random item I found at a swap meet many years ago. Made of some sort of resin though. Drilled it out and added a threaded insert.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)


Snagged a nice photo out driving today.

Items Completed:
- Replaced the trunk lock cylinder today as well. Was acting up and could find a place that could make a copy of the key.
- installed kenwood 6x9 rear speakers
- fixed threaded insert in steering wheel cover and properly installed. No more rattling or squeaking

Need to replace door cylinders as well. Have 3 matching keys but everytime I lock/unlock the doors it’s a total guess which one will work.

Priority Items on to do list:
- radio install
- factory heater install

*long list of other items to do as well


Drivers view:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)


Continue to make progress. Installed a Custom Autosound USA-740. Had to slightly modify the chrome surround to fit in the factory location but came out very clean.

Used the BATT supply on fuse panel for power but the Accessory and ground wires from the factory radio plug.

So far I love the look and Bluetooth simplicity. Need to start taking more in progress photos.


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Began the installation of the factory heat. Car is an a/c model but I plan to eventually install a vintage a/c kit so went the simplest route I could for heat.

Bought an a/c delete panel to cover the firewall opening but still connect the blower motor as well. Fit pretty good but required a little trimming and drilling my own holes.

Got the panel from Classic Industries.



Decided to use some butyl tape to seal it to the firewall. Will make it easier to remove if needed for the vintage a/c kit later on. Also happened to have some on hand which worked well.


Checked for leaks in heater core with distilled water and added air pressure. Didn’t find anything dripping. Fittings are installed in intake and water pump.

All of the factory harness was still in place so I salvaged the regulator and resistor from the old a/c box, along with the old blower. Plugged everything back in and it all works.

Still need to properly mount the electrical components.

Tomorrow I’ll hookup the lines and refill the coolant as well.

Temperature Controlled Fan
Also added a 180* fan sensor to the driver side head while the coolant was out to run a relay and radiator fan off of. Hated having a toggle switch for the fan.
 

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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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My friends and family are against me going green but I'm partial to it. The green on your ride looks awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #10


Got everything in and heat working again. However found out my heater core appears to have a small leak when under pressure. Had tested it with distilled water the night before with no issue. Apparently it’s an issue.

Opened up the front doors and greased the tracks, added new locks (old ones were not trustworthy) and added a little butyl sound deadening before sealing it back up.

Insides of the doors are surprisingly fairly rust free.


Also had to put in a new battery. The 5 year old one kicked the bucket under the added pressure of a radio and heater blower.


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Got everything all cleaned up under the hood again and took her out into Black Friday traffic today . Ran great and heat works well. Found that my leak was a slightly loose heater hose at the firewall.

Temperature controlled fan works flawlessly in traffic. Had to remove the driver side header to tighten the fittings properly as they started to leak. The header was preventing me getting a solid bite with the wrench.

Removed the below plug to install the sensor:


Next on the list:
- Recover the front seat and add some new foam
- Add butyl sound deadening to the floor when bench seat is out
- Install e-brake drum levers and new parking brake cables
- Wire loom and tuck some more engine bay wires to clean up stuff under the hood


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Green one I did up before my Mohave Gold car now. Built a 383 hydraulic roller engine for it. I've been talking with the guy who bought it from the guy I sold it too. Only thing changed is the shifter and it wears new paint. I did it about 10 years ago and kept it for 4 years I think.
 

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Like the car and the color a lot. I've only had one Chevy II/Nova newer than a '67 (it was a '68), but I like your '70 a lot. 350, manual trans, I love the green, and it's kind of old school. Very solid base as you say, with a bunch of smaller projects to make it the way you want it. Nice choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Loomed and tucked the rest of the wires in the engine bay.


Removed the front bench seat and recovered it with PUI vinyls. It was not super difficult but very time consuming. Replaced the burlap in the seat cushion and weaves back in the original metal wires. Added 1 inch of foam under the old seat foam as well. The old foam was in pretty good condition but the added foam helped fill the seat out more and give it some extra support.

Backs required the old plastic trash bag trick to get the new covers on. Failed to take many photos of the seat reupholstering process.



Did a little engine tuning and got the idle much better at about 800rpm now. Likely will start on the parking brakes next.


1970 Nova 350/4spd
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got the bench seat back in. Ran wires under the carpet for a small under seat subwoofer beforehand though.


Installed a Rockville underseat powered subwoofer. Is only 100watts RMS/400 watts amp. Does a great job filling in the bass that was lacking from the smaller dash speakers and the rear 6x9s. It’s tucked under passenger seat and not noticeable.

Parking Brake Install

Installed the parking brake levers that we’re missing in the rear drum brakes. Ran all new parking brake lines that I got from ss396.com. They fit perfectly but are currently resting on the driver side exhaust. Not much I can do about it currently. Will hopefully resolve that once I switch the headers and tuck the exhaust up closer to the body.


1970 Nova 350/4spd
 

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Been out cruising a lot lately enjoying the car. Found out that the engine I have was likely a 1969 327 originally but with no stamping to associate it to the VIN so I doubt it was the original one. I believe based on the information provided when I bought the car it was converted to a 350 with all new internals when it was rebuilt. It’s been bored .040 over and zero decked. Seems plausible given the late 69 327 blocks had the larger journals and are essentially the exact same block as a 350. It is an “010” block as well.

Also determined that the speedo drive gear in the tail shaft of the Muncie is incorrect and was probably for a passenger side cable exit even though mine is driver side exit. Cable only turns when in reverse. So I don’t think I’ll be fixing that anytime soon given I have to remove the trans to do so.

Just placed an order for a few more parts from classic industries so the holiday break should be productive.

Next up:
  • New 180 degree thermostat (mines missing all together)
  • New package tray (plus sound deadening)
  • New day/night rearview mirror
  • Fixing some loose headlight connections
  • Installing a larger positive bus bar
  • Install glove box light
  • Install trunk light (will probably suck to do)




1970 Nova 350/4spd
 

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Green one I did up before my Mohave Gold car now. Built a 383 hydraulic roller engine for it. I've been talking with the guy who bought it from the guy I sold it too. Only thing changed is the shifter and it wears new paint. I did it about 10 years ago and kept it for 4 years I think.
Is that one of those inexpensive dash caps? I can't decide on how I want to proceed with mine. Some say aftermarket fit like crap and it's expensive to get the factory one restored.
That one doesn't look to bad really.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
New thermostat is in and works well. Though I now need to swap my fan control to a 200 on/185 off switch or the fan runs constantly once the engine hits 180. The previous sensor is a 185/175.

Unfortunately discovered a new issue. Filled the gas tank to full and was gifted with a pool of fuel coming from the top of the tank. It doesn't look like a fuel line leak. Most likely it's the O ring gasket on the fuel sending unit. Hooray! Gonna have to run the fuel tank empty before I can fully diagnose the issue though. I will likely inspect and possibly replace the fuel lines all the way to the front if I need to replace the gasket. Peace of mind for the future. Thinking of doing Power Tour in 2020.(y)

Also have an exhaust leak either at the header or the collector. Really stinks up the garage when idling. :sick:
 

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Discussion Starter #19


Checked off all the items on my last to do list. Currently in search of new wheels and tires before switching the rear gears to be more highway compliant.

Car is up for ride of the month (ROTM) currently. Feel free to popover and give it a vote if you want.

Just registered for the 2020 Hot Rod Power Tour so I’ve started the next long list of todos to prepare for a hot and looonnnggg roadtrip.


1970 Nova 350/4spd
 

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Haven’t updated in a bit. Been super busy finishing projects and rebuilding my wives 65 Beetle.

Things finished since the pandemic started:
  • United Pacific headlights w/ Halos and headlight relay harness (hid the halo switch under the dash, use as daylight running lights)
  • LED dome light and tail light bulbs
  • New water pump (old one cracked)
  • New power steering pump
  • Heater bypass valve
  • New speedo gear that fixed my speedometer
  • New wheels and tires
  • Aluminum radiator shroud
  • Raised front end 1 inch to stop rubbing
  • New sway bar mounts (broke one driving )
  • New floor mats
  • Built a custom floor mounted cup holder
  • New steering wheel
  • New ignition cylinder
  • Rebuilt hurst shifter
  • Fixed reverse lights
  • Repainted accessory brackets
  • Front end Alignment
  • Refurbished license plate bracket (stripped and repainted)
  • Ran coolant overflow to washer fluid tank (don’t use washer fluid or pump)
  • New chrome center dash vents

Still on the todo list:
  • Install new master cylinder
  • Replace vent window seals
  • Replace fuel tank seal
  • and fix the 3 other things I’ll likely have broke or wore out by then. lol





1970 Nova 350/4spd
 
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