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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings SNSers,

Looky what I picked up in Prosperity, South Carolina this afternoon - a very tasty 4-door Grenada Gold 1967 Chevy Nova. This was a deal that I simply could not pass up.:no::no::no:

Here are the specifics.

60,300 original miles
L6-250 155HP Turbothrift
3-Speed manual transmission

Completely solid and original engine, all original interior (the original seat covers are under the current covers, based on the piping "feel"). Other originals include exhaust, shocks, most body/glass. It does have some unmatched paint - apparently the lady dinged it a few times.... I think the right front fender was replaced.

I came equipped to do whatever necessary to make it roadworthy - but nothing was needed!!! :no::no::no:

Made it back to my place in NC no problem whatsoever - no new engine needed on this grannymobile!!! We did have some minor brake smoking - easily taken care of with a hammer and some non-SNS approved words.

I am a happy camper - if I hadn't gone down there today it would have been gone.....

Check out some pics - better ones will follow. Check out the "Love Chevrolet" bumper sticker (Cayce, SC). I hope you like it as much as I do.

The exterior chrome is *amazing* - factory quality.

Cheers, Tim
















































 

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The first Car Dealersip I ever worked for was Love Chevrolet in Cayce SC. They are still in business today.
http://www.love-chevy.com
What a great find!

Congrates!

Al
 

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Fantastic car Tim. :yes: Just wondering if you're happy. ;) :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Fantastic car Tim. :yes: Just wondering if you're happy. ;) :D
This one is getting the full original restoration. :yes::yes::yes::yes: It is too close to original to mess with at all.... no joke!

The '65 Nova will be my "Ratrod" :yes::yes::yes:

I am tickled Chevy Orange ... but I guess you figured that out. :D

Wooohoooo!!!!!!!

Cheers, Tim
 

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Granny '67 Multi-doors Make Great Cars!

We got our '67 Nova 4-door with 41k on it in 1986 from the son of the lady who bought it new in Florida. It was so much like yours it is amazing, ours is 283 PG with Dealer-installed A/C. Marina Blue (paint and chrome not as nice as yours!) with real nice upholstery, carpet, and new dash pad the son installed in hopes of making selling it easier.

I have often wished it was a 6 since the 283 is hard to work on and those SBC rear-mains will always leak, but it does run well!

My kids learned how to drive in the old Nova and it has been my main summertime commuting car up until the last few years when I started to try to keep it off the wet roads.

Some advice: The upholstery will not hold-up long if it is used for daily transportation - if it will be a show-car it'll last you a long time! (We split seams in both front and rear covers, had them re-upholstered and wore that out too! I found another set of original 67 4-door seats in nice shape to put in and they are splitting at the seams now too...)

Take-off the inner door panels and inspect the inside of doors for evidence of water having stood in 'em! My passenger front door has a rust-line where water stood for a long time, it was still solid when I got it but recently started to bubble on the outside - I am patching it now. A friend told me if you coat the inside of the doors with white lithium spray grease and let it run down into the seams at bottom good it does a great job of preventing rust. (And careful removing the door panels - they tend to start coming apart around the edges from taking them on-and-off!).

Remove the kick panels on sides under the dash and clean-out any debris (leaves, needles, etc.) that is accumulated in the cowl drains. The stuff also tends to collect in the area behind the front wheels where the inner brace is welded to the fender and will plug-up the drains there too. If the cowl drains do not work well you will get more rot in the cowl and wet leaves, etc. in that area behind the wheel will cause the fenders to rust-through there! Also, feel your front carpet after you wash the car and, if it ever feels wet after washing or getting caught in the rain, take care of the cowl drains! The only rust in floorboards of my car is from cowl drain backing-up and water dripping onto carpet from bottom of dash on passenger side! Once that carpet padding gets wet it is very hard to dry it out - I just removed mine so, if it does get a little wet I can dry it out easy...

If you feel up under the edge of the hood where the studs that hold the upper grille molding go through you will notice there is a "lip" there where inner/outer hood sheet metal is welded together. You will also probably feel some loose rust and welding slag that has been there since the car was made! Clean this stuff all out good - maybe even use a blow-gun to try to get junk out of the inner section you can't reach and think about giving it a coat of that spray grease too. (This area gets wet from condensation collecting under the hood and dripping-down into the space and also from water getting behind the molding, I think.) I did not realize mine was rusting there until I took the molding off and found it was too late - now I have a mess that is hard to fix! If you take the molding off at any time, use some Liquid Wrench on the studs and go real slow and gentle with the nuts - the studs tend to snap-off real easy and I don't see a good way to replace them! (I bought a new molding because I broke so many studs!)

The other bad spots for rust on these is top of front fenders about half-way back from the front where "seals" between inner/outer fenders hold moisture that can rot-thru and lower rear fenders behind wheels. (There is a plug in inner lower rear fenders just behind the wheel wells that you can remove to allow you to clean any crud that has fallen down from the trunk and may trap moisture there causing rust.) The cowl area around bottom of windshield will rust too if the car is stored outside like mine has been for the last 23 years - best thing would be to keep it dry, I think!

That inline will run forever with an oil change a couple times a year! They will handle a lot better with modern radial tires and shocks, and the eccentrics for front-end adjustment need to be welded to keep 'em in alignment. If she ever starts to "squat" in the rear look for cracks in the "eye" area of the rear leaf springs. That is where mine broke! We have 108,000 miles on ours now and the PG still works great, though I did have the 283 rebuilt at 68k after it cracked a couple pistons whe starting-up after winter storage. I replaced the 2 bbl with Edelbrock Performer manifold and 600cfm 4-barrel and get better milage - milage should not be a problem with the stick-six but a Pertronix ignition module will improve starting and keep plugs working longer... (New plug wires will make an improvement in running also, buy Autolite wires made with modern materials - the "reproduction" wires do not work well! Autolite wires fit right and deliver spark better, especially when it is damp. They don't look "original" but in my book original isn't worth much if it doesn't run reliably!)

If you want modern "tunes" get an AM-FM converter that plugs-in to the antenna cable and a CD-changer for the trunk. You won't get stereo through the old radio but the in-dash units I have seen (including Custom Auto Sound unit I have) just do not fit right and you will, have to "hack" things to some extent to get different speakers in the car anyways. The sound quality of the original speakers is great, just no stereo! I have a special two-speaker set-up in the original space but no "separation" between the speakers makes stereo pretty much useless and they are too small to provide good base...

Did I tell you these are great cars?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Duct tape is in the box on the right :yes: along with other assorted goodies - brake fluid, oil, WD40, flashlight, distilled water, etc.

In the plastic bag is distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires, wiper blades just in case - but I didn't need them. :no:

Better to be safe than sorry.

I didn't think about packing wire - for wiring up the exhaust system if needed? :confused:

Cheers, Tim
 

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Nice car you got there, it would have been a bargain at the buy it now price!
Just curious what was your max bid?
 

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good price !
good car !

Nice work,

have fun with it!

Mark
 

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I didn't think about packing wire - for wiring up the exhaust system if needed? :confused:

Cheers, Tim
I've used it for all sorts of stuff. Bailing wire keeps things from falling off the car (bumper, license plate, muffler, etc). Great in an emergency situation for making a quick and dirty hose clamp. Had a old 74 Dodge Dart that the wire was my hood latch. :eek: :shh:
 
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