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Discussion Starter #1
63 Chevy II while sitting leans to the drivers side slightly. There is no visual damage to the frame work. Any suggestions on a measuring procedure to determine if the lean is due to the front spring, back leaf spring or something else?
 

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If you take the springs out and compare the free arch/length you will know real quick if it's the springs. When I took the leafs out of my wagon they were very different shapes.
 

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front & rear springs affect each other... could be a weak rear affecting front & vice-versa.

for a 50yr old car... front & rear springs are more than likely worn out.
 

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63 Chevy II while sitting leans to the drivers side slightly. There is no visual damage to the frame work. Any suggestions on a measuring procedure to determine if the lean is due to the front spring, back leaf spring or something else?
You need to determine if it's the front or rear springs causing the issue.

The easiest way will be to use a floor jack and find the exact center of the front crossmember and using a 2"x4" on edge, lift the front end of the car off the ground. Once the front end is off the ground, does the car still lean?

If so, it's your rear springs or a binding in the rear, but probably a weak spring.

If the car is level, it's your front springs causing the issue.
 

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x2 on what others are saying, but just a thought did you rebuild the front suspension or do any work to the front suspension in the air. I would to jack up the car loosen your suspension, lower control arms while the car is in the air, then put the car back on the ground and tighten everything up while the car is on the ground.
 

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front & rear springs affect each other... could be a weak rear affecting front & vice-versa.
for a 50yr old car... front & rear springs are more than likely worn out.
When I got my '63 SS convertible the front springs were worn out, so much so the weight of the battery and a/c compressor caused a slight dip in the right front. New springs brought everything back to level.

Bob
 

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x2 on what others are saying, but just a thought did you rebuild the front suspension or do any work to the front suspension in the air. I would to jack up the car loosen your suspension, lower control arms while the car is in the air, then put the car back on the ground and tighten everything up while the car is on the ground.
Great point!

Pressed in urethane or even the old style rubber arm bushings can create a lot of residue spring pressure if they were tightened while in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the responses. I will try the jacking up the front trick to see what I find. Hadn't thought of or heard of that one.

Here is what I had thought of doing:
1 Measure from the ground to highest spot on each wheel opening to see if the side the side is different on front and back.
2 Measure from the same spot on the lower control arm to the top of the fender on the inside to see the difference.
3 Measure the top of the rear axle to a spot on the body on each side to see if the sides are different.

My concern is IF I get a difference left to right on all of these measurements does that mean it has to be both front and rear springs are bad or not necessarily? Does that make sense? It could mean the bad spring has the other one under a heavier load and causing it to squat. Am I over thinking this? Wouldn't be the first time.:eek:

Again, Thanks for your input
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Forgot to add -
I have not done a front suspension replacement everything appears to be in good shape.
I did have the car up in the air a few times (long story love those early wheel cyliners) working on brakes and did remove the drivers side spindle (again long story) and used a block like shown in the shop manual to support the upper A-arm while the spindle was out.
Car has been moved around some since the brake work from one side of the drivewayto the other, parked on street then back to driveway, and in and out of garage but not driven on the street.

Maybe I should drive it around the block a few times to see if the right side settles more? (Think I will do that before I measure everything. Just cause) I just thought the old springs etc would settle after moving the car just alittle after one of the sides was jacked up.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Springs were never removed so no concern with them being seated wrong from the work I did but I will check to make sure the drivers side didn't move while the spindle was out. Don't think it did cause the tool for holding the upper a-arm up worked pretty good at not letting the a-arm go much lower than normal position.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Measured the car at all 4 corners Left side front and back are 1/2" lower than the right. Jacked up the front with a motorcycle jack on the crossmember which should hold the front level car still 1/2" low on left side front and back.

So I think nothing conclusive as bad as I hate to guess I'll remove the front springs first and measure them to see what that tells me or should I be taking some measurements at the frame rails first? How would a body shop be checking the frame anybody know?
 

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I would recommend if you have never replaced the front springs to replace them. They get worn and can cause all sorts of problems. I did and then took my rear leafs to a local suspension shop and had them re arched for the car. For the life of me I could not fix the same issue you are having. That was my solution.
 

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My 63 convertible had similar issues with tilting to the right, and dipping down to the right when turning.

I replaced the front coil springs and shocks and that solved the dipping to the right when turning.

BUT...the car still had a slight but noticeable downwards tilt on the rear passenger side and as a result had a slight tilt up on the opposite front corner..(the front drivers side)...it took me a while to realize that the car cannot just tilt in one direction without affecting the opposite side of the car...one side goes down, the other must go up slightly since the car itself....

This is most likely (based on discussion with some mechanics) due to the fact that the passenger side rear mono leaf spring is worn out from flexing from the torque applied to it by the limited slip differential drive axle. In other words, the passenger side mono leaf spring gets "worked" and flexed more than the right side from the actual drive torquing action....the result is that spring gets weak sooner and starts to sag...so the passenger side sags in the rear and the driver side lifts up in the front....

I have not yet replaced the mono leaf springs...but...the car already had some adjustable air shocks (the type you pump up with a bicycle pump and then leave alone or adjust later).....so, I split the air shock line feeding both shocks into two independent lines and now I adjust the passenger side rear shock to compensate for the sag by pumping that one up slightly more than the driver side rear shock...WORKS GREAT to level the car out. Long term solution is to replace the rear leaf springs and bushings....but that will come later....:cool:
 

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rear springs

Rear springs are not all the same.There are several different combinations of them.Someone may have replaced one of them.Measure the thickness,and width in several different places on the pair,and make sure they are the same.
 
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