[billb]

Hello all. So my 63 Nova convertible , has a rebuilt 6 cylinder engine and tranny, plus a rebuilt carb. Carb is running super rich, fouling my plugs every couple hundred of miles. My mechanic says it runs significantly better without the air cleaner. He told me last year to put on a larger air cleaner. I did that, from a 3 inch cleaner to about a 5 inch cleaner. Car runs rough at an idle, almost stalling, but manages to keep running. Gas mileage is a pig. I just want it to smooth out. Anyone have ideas? I don't buy the air cleaner bit myself.
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Twinshadows]

It's hard to say.

I'd ask ..... HOW Does your car run over-all. IS your engine solid ..
you say - overhauled ? More info about your Nova , motor in good shape, ign good, timing good, trans ok ( which trans - p/g ?).

Other than 'gas pig' -- why is it the carb ?

Can you do any carb adjustments (just trying to ask how your car runs). Then, you got it down to the "Great Littl' 1bbl " Mono-jet.
Any chances of finding/getting another 1bbl too run on the motor for checking performance - out put ?

Meaning that there could be more than one item making the Nova run bad. (I'm not a " 194 ci " fan, myself) . And, I'm NOT knocking your car ...... just asking some different info ......

Then , Welcome to SNS

..... :yes: ..... jim

 

[Ghettoman]

Carb

I had gone through 3 rebuilt carbs for my 63 also. Still runs rich at first. I finally got it right and also got the choke adjusted right as they run super rich and rough until properly warmed up. make sure the fuel line is good and has a good normal in line filter before it enters the fuel pump. Sometimes the float in the carb is not right and lets it flood. Also, make sure that you have a brand new harmonic balancer as you have a nice engine. I had the original one from 1963 on it and never once glanced at it. Finally I saw some rubber extruding out of it and replaced it with a brand new one. The difference was amazing as the car runs so much better and now I can actually time it right. One learns as time goes by. Also never buy the cheapest carb you can find. Ask around and get a reliable one. Holley used to have rebuilt ones so check around.

 

[billb]

Thanks guys for your input. I am not a mechanic, so 6 yrs ago when I paid for a rebuilt engine and tranny, I expected all work to be good. This is in fact my second rebuilt carb in the last 6 yrs. Each year I end up with new plugs, points and condenser, which is cheap, but should not be frequired for driving it less than 1000 miles per year. The car gets stored from Nov - March, and so it does not run those months. I actually run high test gas all the time. I have brought this car to three different mechanics trying to get it to run right.

 

[Twinshadows]

I had gone through 3 rebuilt carbs for my 63 also. Still runs rich at first. I finally got it right and also got the choke adjusted right as they run super rich and rough until properly warmed up. make sure the fuel line is good and has a good normal in line filter before it enters the fuel pump. Sometimes the float in the carb is not right and lets it flood. Also, make sure that you have a brand new harmonic balancer as you have a nice engine. I had the original one from 1963 on it and never once glanced at it. Finally I saw some rubber extruding out of it and replaced it with a brand new one. The difference was amazing as the car runs so much better and now I can actually time it right. One learns as time goes by. Also never buy the cheapest carb you can find. Ask around and get a reliable one. Holley used to have rebuilt ones so check around.

G-man

Did you buy a new balancer ? Would you still have a Part # and vendor name ... (for a 194 ci) ... just asking. Thanks

Thanks guys for your input. I am not a mechanic, so 6 yrs ago when I paid for a rebuilt engine and tranny, I expected all work to be good. This is in fact my second rebuilt carb in the last 6 yrs. Each year I end up with new plugs, points and condenser, which is cheap, but should not be frequired for driving it less than 1000 miles per year. The car gets stored from Nov - March, and so it does not run those months. I actually run high test gas all the time. I have brought this car to three different mechanics trying to get it to run right.

billb

would you think that you could have a vacuum leak .. the sixes are kinda known for maybe loose bolts around the intake/exh manifolds.
Cheap check --- spray some 'brake-cleaner' (I use starting fluid, but that's just me ... either way BE Careful). Also, spray (brake cleaner) around the connection at the "joint" where the intake / exhaust manifold bolt together. With the engine warmed-up & running ... listen to your motor --- any change in RPM's ?
I also, up-graded to the "PETRONIX Ignitor" igintion (PNX-11262A) system ... like 23 years ago (and, basicly have never touched it, since). ..... Great up-grade (for me anyway).
You said "to remove your air - cleaner (or get bigger air cleaner) , Does that DO ANY Thing ? ? (run better with the air-cleaner removed ?).
Hey ... I'm just asking ...
Then, the 'exhaust Flap' in your exh manifold .... is it working -- opening / moving / stuck ?

------- jim

 

[hbanger]

It’s possible that the choke is sticking or out of adjustment or just not working which would could cause it to run rich

 

[Twinshadows]

Good call about the 1bbl choke .

I had my stock carb -- I installed a "choke cable" and made that work good . (I have other 250 / 6's , and my 53 IH has a 'manual choke carb ... that I bought new back in the late 70's) (My IH p/u has a 68 chevy 250 motor & p/g trans).

Easy enough : just install a choke cable - mount that under your dash - and hook-up to the stock carb --

#1 --- picture showing 1bbl carb with a manual choke cable : you can still see the old choke rod & 'stove / spring unit' still mounted on the exh manifold.



#2 --- Inside picture of where I mounted the 'choke cable under the dash --- look below the wiper - switch (enlarge the picture). And, by going to manual choke --- it worked so-much-better.




just FYI ... long gone now .......... jim

 

[billb]

194 running richj

Thanks guys for all your tips/suggestions. As I said, I am not a mechanic. I will list out all of your ideas and drop off the car next week to my mechanic. I will let you know how I make out. I actually did consider an electronic ignition and a manual choke. I have no idea if the harmonic balancer is good or not. Appreciate all your suggestions.

 

[Twinshadows]

Thanks guys for all your tips/suggestions. As I said, I am not a mechanic. I will list out all of your ideas and drop off the car next week to my mechanic. I will let you know how I make out. I actually did consider an electronic ignition and a manual choke. I have no idea if the harmonic balancer is good or not. Appreciate all your suggestions.

For using my 'Manual Choke' -- before starting, I would pump gas pedal twice, push gas pedal down, pull out the choke cable, let off on the gas pedal (by doing this - you put your carb on the 'fast idle step') and start car.

BY PUSHING down on the gas pedal, you set your "Fast Idle Step" on your carb --- (it sets your high idle, when the car starts -- push the choke-off , leaving your car until warmed-up) If you need that (whether it's cold or not == weather wise). It worked great for my car

I hope that all makes sense ....

(I now have a new Carb with 'electric choke' --- the picture of the 1bbl , that carb is gone now).

 

[a-z racing 1]

Billb, does your manifold heat spring work that closes the choke when the engine gets hot? I also installed a Petronix ignition module in the distributor like Twin Shadows did,( best investment that you can make and it is hidden), the old points i had would not stay dwell correctly for very long. Also my 63 -194 used to foul plugs with the factory recommended plugs which were made to run with leaded gas every couple hundred miles. I went up one heat range as recommended by my local engine builder,(NGKBP61), since i am running non ethanol 87-89 octane unleaded. I do not foul plugs any more and the spark plugs are showing a good burn. I also run the stock air filter and would never run a engine without one.

 

[Ghettoman]

Balncer for 194

G-man

Did you buy a new balancer ? Would you still have a Part # and vendor name ... (for a 194 ci) ... just asking. Thanks



billb

would you think that you could have a vacuum leak .. the sixes are kinda known for maybe loose bolts around the intake/exh manifolds.
Cheap check --- spray some 'brake-cleaner' (I use starting fluid, but that's just me ... either way BE Careful). Also, spray (brake cleaner) around the connection at the "joint" where the intake / exhaust manifold bolt together. With the engine warmed-up & running ... listen to your motor --- any change in RPM's ?
I also, up-graded to the "PETRONIX Ignitor" igintion (PNX-11262A) system ... like 23 years ago (and, basicly have never touched it, since). ..... Great up-grade (for me anyway).
You said "to remove your air - cleaner (or get bigger air cleaner) , Does that DO ANY Thing ? ? (run better with the air-cleaner removed ?).
Hey ... I'm just asking ...
Then, the 'exhaust Flap' in your exh manifold .... is it working -- opening / moving / stuck ?

------- jim

The balancer for the 194 for all of the years is probably best from Classic Industries and is a single belt pulley and has a number for ordering of G5089 and is around 80.00. Newer blocks for the Nova use a double belt pulley and is timed on the other side of the block. I found this out the hard way. The balancer is a very overlooked part and does wear out. Dorman makes a good one and others are cool. Need to remove radiator and you can do the other seals at the same time.
Modern Performance Classics in Orange also has it but it costs $160.00, looks the same and is #62676cylhb part number.

 

[Ghettoman]

194

Also best to check and see if your intake and exhaust manifold are clean and clear. This really sounds like a carb problem and I know it is a nightmare but just remember, this motor is very simple and from the 60's and you can fix it. Just stay simple as it is a simple problem and can be fixed. Dont add or remove stuff that you dont need to. That carb is made to use the stock air cleaner and keep that clean also with a new filter. One of the best investments for that 194 is the electronic timing device to replace the points in the distributor and also a new ignition coil and harmonic balancer. Add new wires for the spark plugs and after you replace the balancer have it timed correctly. I could not time my 194 for years correctly until the new balancer was put on. Keep up the faith.

Also letting that old car sit for 5 months is not good for the carb as crap settles in the bowl and jets can get clogged. That happens on volkswagens. In my life I have replaced that carb several times and 2 of the carbs were terrible. Rebuilts are not always good so be careful and I use a guy in Washington to rebuild my carbs better than new. Look on the web for Volksbitz and ask him if he can rebuild yours. Always have a spare carb hanging around along with a fuel pump, belt and the new battery chargers which are fantastic. My neighbors love me as I can charge their car in 5 seconds and not have to call AAA. Remember, think simple as these are really simple motors that were made for the masses, like Volkswagens.

 

[Nova Thug]

Thanks guys for your input. I am not a mechanic, so 6 yrs ago when I paid for a rebuilt engine and tranny, I expected all work to be good. This is in fact my second rebuilt carb in the last 6 yrs. Each year I end up with new plugs, points and condenser, which is cheap, but should not be frequired for driving it less than 1000 miles per year. The car gets stored from Nov - March, and so it does not run those months. I actually run high test gas all the time. I have brought this car to three different mechanics trying to get it to run right.

Your problem probably stems from your statements in this post.. 1000 miles a year and stored from Nov-March.. Inactivity is the worst treatment of all.. Old gas doesn’t burn very well and trying to warm up a car that has old fuel in it will not run very well once the choke has shut off. The idle will struggle to maintain and will lope or run rough at a stoplight especially while in gear. Also, don’t put high octane fuel in your low compression engine.. High octane fuel is less volatile and requires adequate compression to combust/burn.. Your 194 does not have what it takes to efficiently combust/burn the higher octane fuel..

First thing to do is put some fresh fuel in it and then run the piss out of it.. Refill the tank and do it again.. It should smooth out after running it a bit.. RUN IT..!