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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am going to be building my '79 350 using a 153 teeth flywheel for my muncie. I have two SBC
starters. One is for a 168 teeth flexplate and the other is for a 153 flexplate. The 168 starter is a
HD model and the 153 is just a standard starter. Since the 168 HD starter is newer, I'd like to put
the 153 bendix (I should have put COVER here) on the HD 168 starter. Does anyone know if this
can be done without causing any problems?

FYI - The HD starter originally came off the 350 engine which only had 14k over the road trip miles
and low cranking time.
 
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I would say - - - Yes , but I've never done it .

Sam , the "point of using the starter may be : "the mounting bolts " .
'staggered bolts OR straight bolts = on the Block ' ?
Or - change the nose cone . . . to which ever "fits the block" .
Or - drill the block for "three mounting starter bolts" . (check this box) .

Hey, I'm just talking here - but, for just the Bendix , ? ?

stay safe over there in GA . - - - jim
 

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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
OK, I got off to a bad start on this thread because I omitted "Cover" when I started this thread. I am wanting to change
some stuff off of a 153 starter and put it on a 168 starter so I could use the 168 which is a HD design with my 153
flywheel. My block has provisions for the straight across and the staggered type starters so it's looking like all I
really have to do is remove the staggered snout from the HD starter and install the 153 snout. Is this all I have to do
to use the original 350 HD starter?

I was thinking the bendix teeth were different at one time between the 153 and the 168 but have read they are the
same so I assume I won't have to bother with that. I really do get messed up some times. Does this make sense now?
 

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You can swap the nose cone, done it several times as a poor kid when I was younger. Never noticed any difference in bendix teeth and never had any problem. Swapped staggered aluminum noses in place of straight across, and staggered iron noses in place of either aluminum versions.

Tooth pitch is the same on both flywheel daimeters, so that should make the bendix teeth all the same.
 

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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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Discussion Starter #5
That's encouraging. I was concerned that there might be some alignment problems. I might just make the swap and when the
engine is built I'll check the clearances. Ouch, my wife just came in and read this....She says.....Just buy a new one and be done
with it. Woman don't understand the challenge. HAHA!
 

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I happen to be in the middle of rebuilding a couple 10MT Chevy starters, one for a 168 tooth set up and the other for a 153 tooth set up.

Bendix are the same, both 9 tooth drive gear of same dimensions, same fork ring, same retention snap ring, same over all length. I do believe your memory is correct in drive gear differences as I do recall a 7 tooth drive gear application but don’t remember what it was for or even if it was a 10MT or not.

404905

Original 168 tooth on left and original 153 on right. Though either one could trade places with a nose cone swap. Though the 168 one is an HD housing.

404906

168 just before assembly

404907

153 still getting prepped.

Kinda hard to see in the pictures but you can see the differences in the bolt locations in the nose cones. Staggered on the 168 and straight across on the 153.

Mike
 

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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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Discussion Starter #7
FANTASTIC Mike. I'll bet there are more guys besides just me that would like to see a video on how to
put one of them back together. If you have a video you can post it right here for all of us to see. I'd take
a stab at rebuilding my original starter for a backup if I had a go-by. How about it?:giggle:
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Hey 01mikep,
Great write-up and photos!!!
 

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I semi-fibbed when I stated you could just swap nose cone housings on these 10MT starters to make them fit your application. Mostly all true, but I didn’t mention cast iron nose cones. There is one difference I can think of but wouldn’t impact starters on your novas (no cast iron coned Novas I know of) but may cross your path if you use a core from an older application.

404954

Cast iron nose cones have a narrow width space at the pivot pin point for the solenoid to bendix fork.
404955
The aluminum housings most of us are used to seeing have a wide space at that location.

404956
Iron housing fork left. Aluminum housing fork right.

The pivot part of the fork width will therefore be different between the cast iron and cast aluminum housings. Obviously wide won’t fit narrow space and narrow, while it would fit, would be sloppy.

If you end up swapping nose cones between starters of cast iron and aluminum, just be sure to carry over the fork too and you will be fine.

Cast iron cones were pre-1962 Chevy and heavier duty 4 speed trucks for many years later.

Mike
 
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