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Discussion Starter #1
I need to replace my yoke in my trans,It has a grove and leaks, what is the differance in these 2, 27 spline for a th350/ 2004r conversion. there is a 1310 and 1350. Is one longer?
I have a 71 Nova that was a th350 now a 2004r and a small block, Thanks Eric
 

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i used a 1330 yoke in an 11 second car. for a street car you're fine with a 1310

the number designates strength. i don't know the details, but 1350 is heavy duty basically and 1310 is stock. side by side you can see the difference big time. i have a 1330 on my front yoke on a car that should (hopefully...) go high 10's.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Aron, Humm I didnt even see a 1330.:confused:
Is a 1310 the same a stock? The guys at Art Car said i should get a HD unit.
 

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What's the price difference? if it's not to much go with the HD unit, a little extra insurance wouldn't hurt. BTW are you going to Mulligans tonite?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Randy, thanks, not much differance in price, so HD it is. and yes ill be there, but first im going to Rubys, :yes:
 

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I f your yokes and drive shaft are designed for 1310's, you can't just throw 1350"s in there. You would have to change the slip yoke, driveshaft, and pinion yoke. The trunion and caps are physically bigger. Now, higher performance and big cars came with 1350's from the factory, so you need to check and see which ones you need. The best u-joints to get are the solid non-greasable type. Even in the smaller 1310's they are much stronger. I disassemble mine and repack them every few thousand miles, or once a year.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
71ss, Thats what im finding out, I guess i need a 1310. I have the stock drive shaft and u-joints, I see Strange has 1350 yokes and 1310/1350 conversion u-joints, Im guessing that will work. :confused:
Also i see there is a 1310 for a spicer? and just a 1310, ????
This was a 307sb th350 car. and added a 2004r.
 

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1310, 1330 and 1350 are the different size u-joints that are available. 1310 is a stansard 6cyl and small v-8, the 1330 was the 1 for a big block and the 1350 is a big azz mf.

You could use the 1350 in the front only, BUT you would have to change the end on the front of your drive shaft and have it re-balanced. You should probably just stick with the 1310 slip yoke but you can get HD solid u-joints if you need to. There is no provisions for greasing the u-joint if it is solid.

On edit the "conversion u-joint has 1 end sized as a 1310 for thr drive shaft and a 1350 for the slip yoke. DON't do that.

If you are ever out some where and need to replace the u-joint you will be hard pressed to find one
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good Point Dr. Denny.
Im sure the Strange 1310 slip yoke is better than the stock one.
Only reason im replacing them, a bad u-joint now and a grove worn in the current yoke, so it leaks.
Thanks DR. D.
 

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Grooves in the yoke could be a sigh of a worn tail shaft bushing or a worn center support bushing in the trans. These can fail from worn u-joints or out of balance drive shaft. Did you have any vibrations at 35 MPH or above?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The trans is new, and the yoke was from the th350 from before, the yoke has 130k miles on it and has leaked (worn out seal) from before, I should of relaced it when i had the trans done.:eek: The U-joint had a very slight kink in it.
I getting around to it now, before it does any damage to the trans.
 

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For a street car, a good solid 1310 u-joint will hold up just fine, but even the 1350 can break pretty easily if it's the hollow greasable type. I used to break them all the time in my Firebird with a 400 putting out around 375-400 hp, a th-400 with a kit in it, and a 2.56 open rear end on regular radials. I can't remember how may times, and in how many different cities, I've sent the drive shaft flying. And that was with the 1350's I was getting from Advanced.Get the 1310 youke, and good u-joints, and then find someone to rebalance the drive shaft to make sure it's still ok and you're good to go.
 

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The 1330 and 1350 u-joints are about 1/2inch wider than a 1310. The 1350 caps are about 1/4 inch larger in diamater than the 1310 and 1330. Spicer is a brand of yoke or u-joint, not a style. A solid 1310 u-joint should hold up to any N/A small block and most any car on street tires.
 

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The 1330 and 1350 u-joints are about 1/2inch wider than a 1310. The 1350 caps are about 1/4 inch larger in diamater than the 1310 and 1330. Spicer is a brand of yoke or u-joint, not a style. A solid 1310 u-joint should hold up to any N/A small block and most any car on street tires.
I thought I already stated this. Not so eloquently though...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes you did Aron, But I had questions when I saw 1310/ 1350 conversion U-joints. When i saw the 1350 was bigger and I always been taught, Bigger is better, why not try, Then the point came up, broke down in bumf#&k E-jip, where do you find a 1310/1350 U-joint at Ma&PA's corner auto parts.:devil:
So, 1310 inland yoke and solid U-joints will do.
 

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As far as the 1310/ 1350 conversion U-joints go. I have been running one in my Firebird for 30 yrs now when I put the 12 bolt in it, and not a problem. Now mine is not a high HP motor. Its just a basically stock Hi Po motor with TH-400. I even have the factory front u-joint and its still going good.

But like always. Now that I talk about it it will probably go out now.
 

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I have the 1350 just cause I was having to buy a new pinion and tranny yoke along with a new driveshaft anyway, the cost was the same. JR
 
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