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I have the same brake kit on the back of mine. They seem to work really well.

Still have the small drums on the front. Eventually will go with some disk for the front. Still trying to find the best kit for the money. Don't want anything high dollar just complete and well made.

Snow, that's the price you pay for living in beautiful Colorado.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
From the weight, I assume that they are steel. They are 11" compared to my old 9" ones, so should stop better. It's just a driver, so I wasn't all that worried about the weight. Somewhere down the road I'll get a bigger engine, so then I might race it some.
 

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I have a moser 12 bolt with the ford ends which are bigger. I had to take my nice new brake assemblies apart, grind a larger hole in the backing plates, put them back together, and yes that parking brake cable was a bit**.
 

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Yeah, the installation of those brakes are a snap. Comes assembled. Just bolt them on. The hardest part was connecting the emergency brake cable.
Yes! I just did this the night before last. I was afraid I was going to have to pull the shoes on each side, but discovered the hole in the backing plate, with the red plastic plug. It looks like the e-brake cable has different entry, front or rear, on different models? Anyway, I was able to get a long screwdriver back there, and push the cable end down into the clip in the lever. First I had to unhook the equalizer so I could push the ends well past their springs. Very glad I figured that out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It looks like the e-brake cable has different entry, front or rear, on different models?
Actually, that's so the backing plate can fit right or left side.
Anyway, I was able to get a long screwdriver back there, and push the cable end down into the clip in the lever.
I did the same from the front with a small curved pry bar. Took some finagling, though, :D Shoulda tried your way.
First I had to unhook the equalizer so I could push the ends well past their springs. Very glad I figured that out.
Yeah, I did that, but the new brakes are bigger which pushes the connection further back so that the cable was then too short to reattach. I had to extend the rod from the front with a connector and threaded rod. Plus, they are wider, so I had to re drill the hole for the lower shock mount and move the shocks in a bit. :rolleyes: But hey, it's done now. As long as I was under there, I also put a new sending unit in the fuel tank. My gauge would only go to 1/4 full before.:D
 

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Actually, that's so the backing plate can fit right or left side.
I did the same from the front with a small curved pry bar. Took some finagling, though, :D Shoulda tried your way.Yeah, I did that, but the new brakes are bigger which pushes the connection further back so that the cable was then too short to reattach. I had to extend the rod from the front with a connector and threaded rod. Plus, they are wider, so I had to re drill the hole for the lower shock mount and move the shocks in a bit. :rolleyes: But hey, it's done now. As long as I was under there, I also put a new sending unit in the fuel tank. My gauge would only go to 1/4 full before.:D
I didn't run out of cable, for whatever reason. The rear e-brake cable I have is the standard 62-67 reproduction cable, and it had plenty of slack. After adjusting the equalizer, it works fine. I still have to fiddle with the star wheel to adjust the brakes overall, but everything went together. I also had no problems with the shock mounts. I did have to take off one of the brake cable guides that attaches to the leaf spring plate in order to hook it over the cable, after snapping the cable sleeve into the backing plate.

I also just put in another sending unit. Since I switched to aftermarket gauges, I needed the 66-67 sender with the 0-90 ohm range.

And here are some pictures of the MPB 11" drum brakes installed on my 63:
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101446
 
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